8 Burst results for "pemba sherpa"

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

05:18 min | 3 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"It's seven am and wilco. Von on ruin. Feels like he's dying from thirst his throat as parched and his tongue drying he wants to put a fistful of snow into his mouth to ease the pain but he can't it would drop heat from his core. She desperately needs. He's completely lost again. He had climbed down as far as he could go and hit a steep overhang so he had to go back now. He has no idea where he is. His eyes feel like they're on fire and every few steps he falls asleep leaning on his ice axe. He talks to himself to try and stay awake. Okay wilco watch your step. He's setting now just three steps forward. Three steps can do three steps. Watch your balance. and then. miraculously. He finds the rope. He has no idea how it got here but he's filled with gratitude. He quickly clips on and makes his way forward only to find the same thing. Other climbers before him discover the severed rope. His vision is so blurry he doesn't see the second row instead. Like pemba sherpa. Before him he begins the climbed down past the first row alpine-style with only his ice axe and crampons but the sun is beating down on his head and he is so very tired finally he simply stops like a wind up toy on. Its last click. This is it. He thinks this is where it all lance marco. Comfort told us energy is flagging. But he knows he needs to help juror with the korean climbers who are tangled up in the row still. There's only so much they can do. They've been here for nearly two hours and they're both exhausted. But you're refuses to give up. As marco works on untangling a not. He looks up. Jurists finished laying the top clamor carefully onto the snow. The korean climbers are no shape to move but at least they're a bit more comfortable suddenly jour- starts up the mountain marco's confused. Why is he doing jerk. Where are you going. come back. But you're keeps climbing. Marco calls out again. But jer doesn't turn around moments later he disappears under the ceramic. Marco is stunned has the night spent freezing on the mountain. Driven jared sane. Should he chase after his friend or should he go back down he so incredibly tired if he goes up he may not make it back. He asked to save himself as he turns away. He sees a microphone. Peaking out of jumex coat but there's no radio attached. It must have become dislodged in the fall after a few minutes. Searching.

Three steps seven am Marco first row second row pemba sherpa three steps wilco korean both two hours Von marco few minutes
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

07:36 min | 3 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"Casavant. Behavioral isn't sure what time it is. When he finally reaches the bottom of the bottleneck. he knows his. He's lucky he pulls out his radio and spins through the frequencies trying to get someone on the line. He finally reaches roland one of his dutch nor teammates at base. Camp ro ro. i'm still in the mountain. but i'm through the bottleneck. I'm okay but the french clamor. Hugue i think he fell. I saw a body go by. I look from on the way down. But i couldn't find him and jer and pemba are they with you know no. We were separated. I don't know where they are. I'm going to make my way to camp four. I can't feel my feet. As cast begins the final trek across the snowfield. He sees headlamps approaching. Its two sherpas from the korean team. They're looking for their cousin. Julich and the other korean climbers cast asked if anyone has made it back down they not pemba sherpa. He was with cheering and pasang be passed them on the way cast. Ask them to keep their eye out for hugh but in his heart he knows the clamor is gone and then he heads for camp. Four gomez son battles her way down the mountain pulling freezing mountain air into her lungs. Her oxygen cylinder expired hours ago every once in a while she can see the twinkle of a headlamp far far ahead. It belongs to mr kim. The korean leader they left chewing and the others to try to find another way down now. She's lost at the top of the traverse. she finds the severed rope. But where is the line hocus pocus. Then she finds the second row hooked into an anchor down below. She can see mr kim. Making his way down the bottleneck. She climbs down and begins to pick her way along using her ice axes until she reaches the long angled snowfield at the bottom. When she looks she can no longer see. Mr kim's headland at all mr kim. Her voice echoes across. The dark slopes no response. She's alone on the pitch dark mountain and now the wind is picking up. She's climbed eleven of the world's tallest peaks. She's gotten through difficult situations before she can do this but as she tries to feel her way along the ice her mind starts to muddle. Her sense of direction is completely lost. Suddenly she runs into an outcropping check rocks. They're covered in ice snow. This wasn't here on the way that she could turn around balancing carefully she steps from one rock to the next but then she gets stuck. She can't move up or down and she can't see a thing for all. She knows she's about to walk off a cliff. She sits down on a boulder and puts her head in her hands. It's so cold. She can feel her body shutting down. She banks gloved hands together to keep the circulation going. Her eyes start to close she so tired. Suddenly she's sitting at a would table or eighty three year. Old father sits across her. Call me son. He says everyone is so proud of you. South korea is so proud. His face is round and warm like the sun inviting calling to her flight. Horizon snap awake. She can't fall asleep. she needs something to do. She takes off her headlamp and checks the batteries. Maybe the arc of light will guide someone towards her but with each passing minute. She feels herself growing colder and colder. She knows soon hypothermia will set in and then she sees lights moving up the mountain. Mr kim. dd. It's the shirtless. Serving and big. D is their pet name for her. It means big sister in nepali. They are jumex cousins. Her favorite sherpa as they draw closer. She cries out mr kim. Where's mr kim. don't worry he's back at camp four. He told us to come. Look for you and make. where's humic it's quiet for a moment. Then by son speaks up is still on the mountain. Her heart sinks. She was the one who urged to join the expedition. This her fault maybe she should go back and look for him but she can't think jimmy will be okay. He's strong. We need to get you back to camp. Four big pasang pollster free from the raw and clips for safety harness to their own the rope at four thirty a m. They delivered ghomi son to mr kim's tent tears in his eyes. Thank you searing. Thank you big pasang. The two men nod respectfully and head back to the mountain they must find germ mcdonald opens his eyes. It's five am. He survived the night on the mountain in subzero temperatures without a sleeping bag above them. The dawn is bathing k. Two's craggy flanks impeach colored light jerk can hardly see. His eyelids are encrusted with ice. But as the first rays of the sun began to warm him he slowly comes to life. Marco are you marco comfort tola quickly jumps to his feet. Were alive jer. Let's get wilco. Go and find a way down. A hundred meters away. Wilco is already awake stamping his feet trying to restore circulation and warm up his limbs. The ropes have to be close by. I think we should split up. If one of us finds them we can call out to the others. Wilco walks off in one direction and mark wgr at the opposite way but as wilco walks. He's just as confused as he was the night before. Everything looks the same and there is no sign of the ropes. He has a pounding headache. Why is the so hard then. His eyes start to blur and he realizes what's happening to him. His eyes are literally being burned by the sun's ultraviolet light. The headache is part of that. But it's also likely fluid building up in his brain from lack of oxygen a condition called cerebral at dima. If there's any chance of surviving he needs to get down now row or no rope. He quickly makes his way back to marco jer. Listen guys if i go snow blind. I won't be able to look for anything and you guys can't carry me in your condition. I just need to go down and then without a goodbye. We'll go walks away..

Julich five am Wilco nepali two men mcdonald second row kim two sherpas Marco first rays wilco Casavant ghomi South korea eleven eighty three year pemba jimmy four thirty a m.
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

05:13 min | 3 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"Wilco. Von roy stumbles forward in the snow. He has no idea where he is. He's gotten turned around so many times for all he knows. He's on the other side of the mountain on his way to china instead of pakistan. Which means he'll probably be dead in an hour. He has to find the rope line. During the daylight it would be easy but in the darkness. Nothing about the landscape looks like he's ever seen before he can't believe this is happening. He planned the expedition down to every last detail. The dutch team was here early. There's some of the best climbers in the camp and the most prepared. Now all four members who made it to the top are separated. And who knows where pemba cass enter. His mind feels like it's unraveling. He wonders if he is hallucinating. It's the sound of someone singing. The tune echoes around him. Then he gets to his knees and inches forward and then he stands then twenty feet or fifty feet or two hundred. Who knows he finds junior. And marco huddled together in the snow in the brooding shadow of the mountain. It's a brief moment of grace jer. Marco i got turn around. You've been here the whole time. We can't find the ropes. They're nowhere is total shit. Well let's try again together. Maybe this time we can find them. We can split up not go too far staying. Communication marco is so tired but he knows wilco was right and they stay here much longer. Gerbil fall asleep. Come on jer up. You go then. The three climbers set off again. Wilco is obsessed. This mountain is not going to beat him. He's stronger than that. He just needs to dig in and keep looking. He finds himself at the edge of the ridge. He feels the emptiness below him. He leans over trying to see down below. Then here's marco yelling. Wilco this is suicide please stop. We have to stop for the night. Okay okay marco starts digging another set of holes in the snow or injure but wilco builds his own one hundred feet away. They only need to make it through the five hours. He thinks then the sun will come up. It's two am and jimmy boteh sits waiting for a signal from pemba sherpa. Jimmy has been hired as the sherpa for the korean team and he. It's his responsibility to make sure. The korean climbers make it down safely. Jimmy met the korean team when he acted as sherpa for them on everest. It was ms mizuko who convinced him to come to cato. He wasn't so sure but he and his wife are having a baby and the money will go a long way to their future. He never imagined he'd find himself year. Twenty thousand feet up in the dark trying to lead people to safety and then pemba sherpa went off to find the rope line. And now mr kim. The team leader and ms ago are both gone. They must have unclaimed from the rope and set off on their own what he can't leave the three other. Korean team climbers behind. He wishes he would have listened to his instincts. Ketu was too dangerous. Maybe the mountain doesn't want them here right now. He could be warm at home in nepal drinking tea with his wife. The smell of dinner on the stove. His mind begins drift off. When suddenly allowed frat pierces the air and a white wave of snow horse down. The mount jimmy is hurled off his feet and sweeps past the koreans down the mountain in a soon nami of ice and rock the next thing. He knows he's hanging tangle of ropes somewhere over the ledge. He can't feel his limbs when he looks up he sees two of the korean climbers dangling from the ropes and the rocks above him both are hanging from their legs upside down clamped in from their harnesses dramatic panics. This can't be happening. This isn't where he's meant to die. He's only thirty two years old. What about his parents. What about his wife. They will blame themselves for his death for letting him take these risks. He can't let that happen. He takes a deep breath. His whole body aches but for a moment his mind is calm. I am strong. I can hike down the mountain on my own but no he can't leave the other climbers. It's his duty to help them down to safety. He.

china twenty feet pakistan jimmy boteh fifty feet Wilco Von roy two Twenty thousand feet Gerbil two hundred kim Jimmy Marco five hours two am wilco Ketu thirty two years old four members
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

07:33 min | 3 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"Cecilia hits her headlamp. The light flickers once and has gone. She can't see thing and now she's alone on the mountain in the dark without ralph. Her heart is racing tears. Roll down her face. An image flashes into her mind his smiling face as he built so to dylan tune on his her monica blow in the wind. She shakes her head. He must be here somewhere. Maybe he's hurt waiting for them and then she hears a voice from below cecilia. It's lars cecilia. repel down. it's okay. Just hurry. She reaches forward in the dark and fuels for the rope. She gives it a tug and then slides down into the darkness as she repels headlamp flickers on and off casting eerie shadows on the ice and rock maybe lars found rolf. She thinks they'll be standing at the bottom waiting for her. They can go home together when she gets to the bottom. She looks around no roof. Only lars where is he she feels cheated like lars tricked her into coming down but then she sees lars face in the soft glow of his headlamp. It's gentle and soft cecilia. Listen he's gone. We have to go look for him tomorrow when it's light k. Cecilia stands frozen trying to comprehend it all just this morning. The sun was shining and she was looking down into her husband's smiling face. Now it's dark and he's gone. She puts one foot in front of the other and continues down. The pemba sherpa looks over the edge of the icy slope above the traverse. It's ten pm. He made good time down the snowfield and quickly found the top of the traverse. There's a problem. There's no rope leading down. The korean team took it after they descended. The only thing left behind was the ice axe. They used to anchor the rope now. The koreans are seated down below quiet and exhausted. This means the remaining climbers on the mountain will need to get down the one hundred fifty foot wall without the aid of a rope a drop. That's roughly the height of twelve story. Building he walks back a few paces and confers with sherpa cheering door jay. From the american team they decide to descend and wait for the others at the bottom. Maybe they can help. Guide them down while they wait. Pemba watches the korean team. There disoriented and their movement. Slow it takes some of them fifteen minutes to put on their headlamps a tasks that would normally only take two at last. Here's the voices of his teammates from above the ridge. There's no rope. He shouts be careful. Go very slowly. The men kicked their crampons and access into the ice for support and slowly carefully lower themselves down. Pemba is glad to see them. Along with the climber from italy when they get to firm ground they stand quietly against the wall staring into the shadowy darkness around them. One of the mumbles. Our we find the rope. Everything just looks the same there in even worse shape than the last pemba sabam the altitude and the climb up have decimated all of them. The korean team leader. Mr kim sits in the snow panting for breath. No one is leading the way or at all. If someone doesn't do something they will all die here on. The mountain. pemba quickly calls the small group of sherpas together. The four of them are the only ones still in good shape listen. The climbers need our help to get down the traverse. We're going to need to rope them together. Does anybody have a rope. One of the sherpa rustles through his pack. I have one. I saved and in case of emergency. That's great. we'll stand to at the front and two at the end will hold onto the rope. And the climbers can click on that way we can help them get to the traverse. Everyone nods then. They begin shouting directions at climbers clip on here. Fix your harnesses to this rope. But everyone is moving so slowly. One of the climbers just lays there in the snow unresponsive gazing blankly up at the sky pemba crouches down and wraps his arms around the man's torso hauling up. Another sherpa helps flipping the climber's harness onto the rope. Line get up. You have to stand now. There could be an avalanche at any time. He's relieved to see two of the climbers. Now appear alert. Cast his teammate. From the north team and marco comfort tola the only italian climber to make it up to the summit from the italian team. Marco was an experienced climber and guide having summited six of the tallest mountains in the world. Hembo is glad to have us help. Pemba checks the line and turns to the climbers. Let's go please. We need to walk but walking is hard for everyone with each step. The climbers feet sink into the snow. Making them think they're on a steeper. Climb than they are. One climber takes two steps forward and plops back down into the snow exhausted pulling others down with them. Some of them fall asleep. Get up please. You have to keep moving together. None of them can see the trail when they do walk they wander left and right bumping into each other pemba worries a disoriented climber street too close to the edge and they'll fall off dragging everyone else with them in the dark. It's hard to see anything but the ropes must be here somewhere all at once. The line of climbers stops and one by one they sink to the ground and relief then a few clip from the line and begin to wander off premise. Is this isn't working. He gathers the sherpas again. This is impossible to find the start of the fixed rope passing. You come with me. We'll go ahead when we find the rope. You signal back to the others and you come with your headlamp okay. Pasang lama is the sherpa from the korean team. He knots he in pemba moved quickly up the snow until they find the ridge of the rock down below embassies. The first anchor glinting in the headland saying this is it using them to the others and wait for them here. I'll repel down to check the rest of the anchors and make sure the rope securely fixed. When pemba gets to the first anchor he sees it solid. The second isn't a secure and the rope line is buried beneath ice and snow. He pulls it out and fixes a second screw next to him. He doesn't get to the third anchor because a few feet past the second he can see. Something's not quite right. The rope is hanging loose. It's not tied to an anchor. It's not tied to anything. It looks like it's been cut by something. But what pemba aims. His light around the bottleneck. The light cast shadows craggy rock then. He aims his headlamp straight up. A huge chunk of this is simply gone. It's collapsed there. Must have been an avalanche. He points his headlamp down the bottleneck below and his heart starts to race. The avalanche away everything including the rope. Now he has no idea how. The climbers coin to get down..

Cecilia Marco fifteen minutes italy tomorrow twelve story cecilia ten pm one hundred fifty foot two one foot k. Cecilia third anchor kim two steps this morning Pemba One climber american ralph
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

08:01 min | 3 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"Pemba gil j sherpa steps onto the summit at six thirty pm. He's the first member of the dutch nor team to arrive. Even without oxygen feel strong. Now he's standing on what feels like the top of the world. The home of the gods pemba watches as more climbers arrive. They look wild the happy but exhausted as he waits for the team. He offers to take pitchers for the others. One of the french climbers handsome camera. His name is huge deal berate. He's sixty one years old and the second oldest person to ever climb k two. It's so beautiful pemba. My life's ambition. This is my last climb. What a glorious one. It is when they're done with the photos. Hugh offers pemba satellite phone. Call your family. Tell them about the glorious view. Pemba shakes his head. We need to go down. I can tell them in person soon. Enough as pemba watches. The sun slowly arch down across the western horizon. Cheering door j. joins him. Cheering is the sherpa from the american team. And the second to arrive the to hug and congratulate one another. It's the first time on k. Two for them both and they both summited without supplemental oxygen but under their smiles. Pemba and cheering are worried. It's nearly seven. pm it's unavoidable now. All of the climbers will be heading back down in the dark yet. None of them seem to be concerned. After twenty our climbing this altitude people are physically and mentally drained. The adrenaline used to get up. The mountain is now gone. The thin air and lack of oxygen to the brain leads to slowed reactions. The mind is confused. Physical coordination becomes difficult hallucinations. Set in and no one wants to be hallucinating in the dark at twenty eight thousand feet up pemba son. It's seven pm. There's maybe one hour left of light before. Dusk covers the mountain and hayes and his team still isn't here wilco. Von ruin hadn't imagined the climb up to the summit would be hard without supplemental oxygen. It's even harder. He takes a few steps at a time and then rests on his ice axe ten steps. Rest another ten steps then rest. When that word of mouth he falls to his hands and knees and crawls keep going when he reaches the top of the ridge he stands up for the last few steps top. He made it. He raises his arms over his head reaching into the sky and begins to cry k. To four members of the nor team reached the peak one after the next gen mcdonnell pemba sherpa and cast fonder hateful. They gathered together in a group hug. Laughing and weeping. We did it. We did it. The view of the mountain range from the top is so bright and clear. Wilco almost feels dizzy. Wilco calls back to holland on his satellite phone. Martin martin there. We're standing on top of k to the news of their triumph will be instantly relayed around the world germ donald wipes his eyes when he summited. Denali irish drum known as a badran. He joked that it sounded like a pair of sneakers. Tumble-drier today he pulls the green white and orange flag of the republic of ireland out of his jacket pocket. He unfurled the flag and extends it with both hands towards the sky jurists. The first irishman to conquer k. Two on the way up he had taught some of the other climbers in old irish phrase. Chuck gar- la which means our time will come. Now it has. We'll go hands him. His satellite phone. Call your family. Jer pulls off his gloves and dials home to ireland and he picks up the phone on the first ring. And you're not gonna believe where i am. Cecilia and lars make their way back down the snowfield towards the traverse. It's seven thirty pm. It's getting cold. Fast and cecilia is eager to find. Ralph the setting sun as the mountain in a soft dusty light. Cecilia stops for a picture. I think we'll just make it back to the ropes by nightfall. The thin air makes the celia feel weak her. She left her spare bottle down below for her husband. Laura's i think i need some oxygen lars knots. He pulls the oxygen pipes from his nose and hands them to cecilia base. Stay close trading them back and forth as they walked down. They walk for an hour. Cecilia squint into the distance. Looking for roles familiar coat. Ralph ralph cecelia's voice carries across the silence snowfields. Then she sees him. He's sitting on a small hill of snow as if he has all the time in the world as soon as he spots her he jumps to his feet and he gives her a hug. Congratulations you did it. We did but we missed you. Cecilia is proud of her husband. It took courage to go about so close to the summit. It just shows what she always knew about him. He's more interested in the spirit of adventure and the experience than risking his health for the end goal. How are you feeling now better. But my oxygen is almost out. We need to get back down to the ropes. Cecilia hands in the tubes from lars oxygen. Then the three of them head down the snowfield to the traverse. It's nearing eight pm. When the dutch team starts down from the summit they are the last ones to leave. Wilco can feel the exhaustion in every part of his body after the twenty hour. Climb on almost no sleep the adrenaline enjoy from reaching the top has been replaced by an overpowering need to sleep. Looks over at irishman germ donal hedger. We have any energy bars left but he knows the answer. The team ran out of water and snacks hours ago. Now is the time. He'll need to dig deep and find buried reserves of physical and mental strength but as he lumbers forward his legs feel heavy. He's so tired maybe if he sits down just for a minute besides his teammate. Cass is still up at the top with an italian clamor taking a few last final pictures. Hilda's rest for five minutes and then get up. When he comes he plops down in the snow falls beside him. Neither say a word only pemba. Sherpa remained standing looking down the slope. A puzzled expression on his face. Is that the korean team down there. They left an hour ago. Bay should be much farther wilko's quince but he can't think straight i dunno pemba. Pemba looks back at the summit. The final member of the dutch north team is making his way down followed. By the italian climber. Hembo looks at wilco injure their strong. He'd seen her on. He's climbed many peaks. Listen i'm going to go down to the koreans the help we need to make sure. The rope is laid down the traverse. They not but it's not clear if they heard him. Pemba turns around to show to pass and the italian. Hurry down after me emotions to jerem wilco. And make sure they come with you and then begins the long trek.

Cecilia Hugh Martin martin Ralph Laura Wilco six thirty pm five minutes cecilia ten steps twenty eight thousand feet seven pm Cass Hembo today Pemba eight pm Pemba gil j sherpa Ralph ralph cecelia twenty hour
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

03:10 min | 3 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"Four thirty pm august. I two thousand and eight. Cecilia school stands on a vast snowfield staring up at the summit ridge of the second tallest mountain in the world. She's been climbing nonstop for almost twenty hours except for a short nap can't four but for a moment. She forgets her aching muscles. The site is breathtaking. The snow sparkles in brilliant sunshine. And the top of the mountain is finally visible silhouetted against the immaculate blue sky. The most dangerous parts of the climb are behind her for now the icy traverse steep narrow bottleneck now. She just needs to put one foot in front of the other and dig in as she makes slow trek up the thirty degree slope through the deep snow. Her breathing is labored thin. Air at twenty eight thousand feet. Many of the climbers on the mountain are using supplementary oxygen but cecilio left her bottle below with her husband. Ralph without oxygen. It feels like breathing through a straw with a ten pound sack of potatoes on her stomach but she tries to keep her mind on the goal she turns to her teammate. Lars nessa. Have you ever seen anything so perfect. I've never seen anything like k. To lars is twenty eight years old and the most junior member of the four-person or weeds and team. He's not a full-time climber. Like cecilia. and rolf back at home. He's a nurse when he agreed to the trip. He never imagined he would make it this far if they reach the top. You'll be one of an elite group of mountaineers who summited k two. Cecilia looks up to see climber coming their way. He has a confident easy. Walk and he doesn't wear an oxygen mask when he gets close. Cecilia sees its alberto's iran q. Remembers him from camp to on the way up. He's a solo climber from the basque country. In spain she saw him helping pemba sherpa earlier. That morning laying rope across the traverse his faces ruddy from the fresh air. Lars is first to speak. Wow no one would guess you just summited the second highest mountain in the world. You're in really good shape. Suddenly cecilia feels strong urge to move. How much further is it. She sees alberto hesitate but she can't read his face. Finally he says at least two hours maybe a bit more cecillia nods and continues walking. She needs to hurry if she's going to keep her promise to ralph and get back to before sunset over to watch a cecilia as she heads towards the peak thinking of how strong and beautiful she looks in the sun. She's full of life. He wasn't sure how to answer when she asked how far he could take years. Maybe four what he wanted to say was it's getting late term back and it's not worth the risk. But he saw the excitement in her eyes and didn't have the heart to discourage her he's worried about. All of the climbers. Now making their way to the top the sun will set soon which.

Lars cecilia Lars nessa twenty eight thousand feet Four thirty pm august cecilio one foot alberto cecillia Ralph first k. To lars eight two thousand twenty eight years old spain second tallest mountain four-person Cecilia thirty degree slope
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

03:14 min | 4 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"The death zone is a place where humans aren't meant to survive at twenty six thousand feet. The heart beats faster lung struggle for oxygen. And the mind starts to cloud but pemba sherpa climbs without supplemental oxygen. He's been climbing mountains since he was fourteen years old. His body is more acclimated to the high altitude. But it doesn't make the trek up the mountain easy and some places. The snow is so deep. He feels like he's swimming against the tide. He yells across the slopes. When we get to the bottleneck make sure your hammer in the ice screws firmly and keep them well spaced out. We can't afford to waste rope at around one thirty a m embassies. One of the porters back placed the first anchor and secure it to a coil of rope. Pemba and alberto trade confused glances. No-one discuss whether this is the best spot to start laying the rope. They haven't even reached the incline of the bottleneck the steep narrow tunnel. That leads up the mountain but the climbers won't need the rope here. The terrain is still relatively flat to save the rope for the bottleneck further up but the porter keeps going. You're setting too much rope on the lower slopes you have to set the ice cruise higher up. The man stares at him blankly. Pemba was heart sinks. He realizes the porter doesn't understand. He looks at the crew and realizes most of them don't speak english. He gestures with his hands. No not there. Set them higher up higher up pemba. And alberto was sean. When they reach the bottleneck they get to work laying rope for the climbers to hold onto safety. It's dawn by the time. The two of them hammer in the final anchor at the upper mouth. Alberto gives a nod. I'd like to go ahead but you need extra rope. I have an extra hundred feet or so my bag. No they're bring extra you go on. And good luck. Alberto grips his. Ice axe in his hands and continues to climb amber looks down at the other trail breakers. Who has rope. We need more rope. He's greeted with silence. Then here's a lone voice. There's no more. It's all gone hammer realizes. The team has laid all the rope lower down on the mountain and they are now short for where. It really counts the traverse. The last tough stretch up to the summit someone will need to send up the rope from the bottom. It will cause even more of a delay which means is a good chance. They won't reach the summit by sundown and no one wants to descend in the dark. When the sun drops it will be colder and much harder to navigate. People get lost and make wrong. Turns hurry during wrote from the lower trails. As the sun starts to rise he peers down the base of the bottleneck groups of climbers are already starting to arrive. There is nothing more he can do..

Alberto twenty six thousand feet alberto two Pemba english hundred feet fourteen years old one thirty a m embassies first anchor One of porters pemba
"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

Against The Odds

08:32 min | 4 months ago

"pemba sherpa" Discussed on Against The Odds

"For wilco van ryan k. Two is like the one who got away. He first attempted to summit in the summer of nineteen ninety five but on the root of the camp for an unexpected patch of rockfall broke his arm. He lost a lot of blood on the climb back down. He made a second attempt in two thousand. Six with german donald. But the quest for the summit had to be aborted. Wgr almost died after a rockfall at the same location to prepare. He tackled other tall peaks like denali everest. Wish he climbed with these but as k. Two that's haunted streams now. He's back for his third try and he's prepared. He's read everything he could find. He studied the weather patterns pitcher the route and planned and replan supplies. They would need his. Mantra is the big dream. The bigger the risks. He's the north team leader and his hand picked each of the members from irishman. Ger mcdonnell to pemba guilty sherpa. He's perfectly suited for a leadership role in the first month. At base camp he supervises every part of the preparation. The team must bring up hundreds of feet of rope to three camps at increasingly higher altitudes almost two and a half miles of rope and all. It's an exhausting task. Hard on the body. Many members of the team grit their teeth through blinding headaches from altitude sickness. But everything is going. According to plan and mid june other teams began flooding in. I the french team. Then the south koreans then the americans who bring in the only medical doctor. Wilco was slightly annoyed as more people arrive. Not everyone is prepared. Some have little climbing experience. Some don't have the right gear but he tries to shake it off with any luck the nor team will make their assent in early july. There'll be the first ones up was still plenty of time to get out before. The others make their attempts to the summit. By the end of june base campus filled with brightly colored tents that spread over the area like starburst candy united nations of some eighty climbers from countries. All over the world the teams come from different backgrounds and climbing cultures and they speak different languages but over the following weeks. They get to know each other. There was a festive feeling as people sit around a blazing fire enjoying yak neat and sweet tea. People visit each other's tents to share climbing stories or play music. Play chess others write blogs or send emails home but nighttime in the camp is a lonely place the sound of voices give way to the mountains protests glacier cracks and groans beneath the climbers both ways as a turning over and sleep the rumble of avalanches echo sharp as a thunderclap. It's unnerving but then the sun rises again and the sound of someone's harmonica playing dylan tune makes it all seemed like a dream has back to the business. Getting ready for the climb. But as july progresses the weather continues to thwart the climbers plans and the mood turns somber an anxious snowstorms roll into the higher altitudes with more snow predicted. Some climbers have already abandoned their expedition and others are considering it. Everyone is restless and impatient. It gives pemba sherpa an uneasy feeling. More climbers have died on k. Two in august than any other month now there are. Dozens of climbers waiting to summit. The window is closing and many worry. They will never get the chance again. It can lead to summit. Fever embassy napa before climbers who pushed aside bad weather or their own limitations and four jon ahead obsessed by the quest to reach the top but for now they are stuck. The atmosphere in camp grows more tense arguments erupt about who will be using ropes. Laid by others accusations are hurled bad feelings. Mount images hopes the mountain. Let them up soon and then. The cloud lifts literally. The weather forecast predicts that the jet stream will shift and usher in four or five days of calm sunny days at the end of july and first few days of august perfect climbing weather pemba into the largest tenth that the camp. It belongs to a team of serbian climbers. But tonight it's the scene for an international summit he surveys the group. There are reps from almost all of the groups have base camp from three continents and seven countries while the window of opportunity to climb is exciting. It's created a whole new set of problems. Dozens of climbers are waiting for the chance up the mountain. Now everyone wants to go at once in the span of less than a week. This meeting is to decide how to manage. So many people on one route to the top penn. Bernard's it wilco. They both know the dutch nor team can reach the top of k two on their own. Wilco doesn't need or want anyone else's help but pemba also knows. Wilco is a pragmatic man. And this late in the season and with so many climbers. There's no way to get up with a cooperation number. One on the agenda is deciding who will break the trail up to the bottleneck and the travis the most dangerous parts of the ascent towards the summit the team leader from south korea. Nominates his deputy delete then. He has each other teams the nominate their strongest climbers. The join him from around the table team leader volunteer their men. Eight total including pemba. the trail. Braking party will leave camp for a few hours before the wake up to get a headstart on fixing the lines. Now there's another question who will supply the rope to fix lines and how much is needed. A debate breaks out. One climber says they'll need three hundred meters. Wilco shakes his said. We'll need at least four hundred meters just for the bottleneck alone and then more for the traverse. We can throw in four hundred. The italian team volunteers two hundred more but no one is sure. What the right amount is one of the sherpas interjects. The team should bring two thousand meters of rope. Just in case the room erupts in laughter. Pemba johnstown the equipment. Each team will supply rope anchors. Caribe nurse an ice screws. What no one talks about is what happens if something goes wrong. What time is too late to try for the summit. Under what conditions should people turn back privately. Wilko's team agrees. They need to reach the top by two pm. Any later and they'll have to make a dangerous descent in the dark but pemba knows that no matter how prepared they are when it comes to k- to the mountain will lay traps for them that they could never anticipate on july. Twenty eighth base camp. Buzzes activity climbers sharpen their ice axes and crampons and pack up their cook. Stoves team leaders meet and agree on radio frequencies for their walkie-talkies. The sherpa climbers gathered together to pray to the mountain. Hembo gil j uses a satellite phone to call his wife and daughter promising them all will be well. Be praying for your safe return. His wife tells him germ. Mcdonald's shoots off a blog post filled with optimism. Let luck and good. Fortune prevail fingers crossed. Then he drops a small bottle of holy water into his pack which is mother had sent him from ireland. Pemba pokes his head jerk grins. It's a fine day for climbing. wouldn't you say pemba nods that it is from base. Camp climbers have to make their way up through two camps each higher than the next the air camp four will be the last stop before attempting to summit but climbing is tough on the second day strong winds force everyone to stop a camp to. It's like the mountain sensing their approach and blows a frigid wind on their plans. Wilco is frustrated. He still wants to push through to camp three. But the other teams want to lay low for a day. He knows it will drain the team's momentum but they agreed to cooperate so here they'll stay at night. The temperature drops to ten below while the winds pound on their tents..

Ger mcdonnell south korea Mcdonald Wilco early july two thousand seven countries tonight two thousand meters three hundred meters two pm first four ireland two camps Pemba five days Each team four hundred each