19 Burst results for "Jamie Waters"
The Monocle's Luxury Retail And Fashion News
"Time to run. This Day's top retail luxury and fashion news with Monaco's fashion editor Jamie waters good morning to you, Jamie. Warning Jordana now of course, wearing black, as long been fashionable, but now the black in fashion council along with some other organizations is moving to make the fashion industry accountable for its race problem. Wearing black has never been more relevant. Tell us what's happening. Hi Yes, but there's a few initiatives and organizations that are being launched at the moment. And blocking fashion. Council is one of the biggest ones, and that's sufficiently launching these wake, but it's founded by Lindsay. Papers Wagner whose the editor in chief of Teen Vogue and Sudden Sandrine Charles is a PR executive basically they wanting to to make the industry accountable. So you know we've seen in recent weeks that were. Browns posting duck towels on instagram and sort of pledging. To the black communities, but now these organizations is saying Kay. We a lot of brands of said this, but they don't actually have representations in terms of their employees on in terms of your mortals and things like that so waking waking to call you to account. So black fashion counts who? Is doing what they're saying is a yearly report cod to hold brands accountable and so every year for the for the next three years, though sort of released this report card that shows. You represent the number of representations of black employees across different levels in the company's on. That was a good qualify paypal's wagner in times of the weekend and she said. We're in a state of cancer coach for right now, but we want to move to accountability Coccia any brown complex, one million dollars to the NASA pay on Instagram, but who will follow up and check that they did. So I think it is the idea of of really putting your mouth is and an If you can make the post on instagram and things like that, but what are you going to do about it? Let's take a felon Tino now. who have who are suing their landlords to try and break the Fifth Avenue wrench contract. Yes, this is an interesting case at the moment west of in this in this position, where over the past couple of months has been kind of. Danz between landlords and retail landlords and tenants in terms of. It's been the kind of case by case basis, but they're in various instances. Landlords have delayed, rent reduced or sometimes. Not Made Brown's pay rented all, but now getting into a situation where things as starting to open up and we're seeing landlords. Say Okay. You need to pay off now and Valentino is suing swing. It's landlord on its Fifth Avenue Flagship in Manhattan. Because it wants to break. It's it's lace contract which I think. He's due to run until two thousand twenty nine I'm basically the brownies saying but. It's such a drastically different retail landscape from when it signed the contract, two thousand and thirteen that. Basically can't make this work in this is just not tenable situation anymore and these these interesting case because. reports saying that the outcome of these. Early lawsuits. we'll really send a signal as to which way the courts are going to go. I think Victoria's sacred is falling different following a similar path. And basically. Whether what irrespective of what happens in the courts? There will be this tussle anyway, because if if brands say that they literally compay. What it's leading landlords in a difficult situation because there's no. in some ways because the the landscape is so decimated, landlords aren't really in a position of power. Because there's no one else is going to fuel they slots. No other people are going to be wanting to retail tenancies at the moment, so it is this kind of interesting tussle. Absolutely I mean it means that the whole character of Fifth Avenue, the kind of beating heart of luxury in the middle of new. York will change completely. Slowly I mean I I think you know obviously things are starting to open up in New York at the moment in terms of shopping, but gear I mean it's the one of the biggest things is that there's just no tourists and I think even if even as the shop so the open an an work how to make these shops attractive to shoppers. You're still not going to have the tourists that make up a huge amount of sales at these flagships in in your in power in the big in the big cities Jamie. Thank you very much. Indeed,
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"Foot traffic in and out of stores and so on other see may be like overkill including here in the UK and officials suggestion that charity and or clothes shops leave all donated or returned clothes for seventy two hours before handling them on joined with more on this by molecules fashion editor. Jamie waters and from Monaco Zurich Bureau by our editor in chief. Todd burleigh Jamie I of all. Let's look at the broader retail picture. Do we have any sense yet? Of How keen or otherwise people actually are to return to non-essential shopping. Well I think I mean we can take a lot of cues from what's happening in other Western countries and in particular if we look at France or parts of the West Texas where they've reopened. Basically there are a lot of. Shoppers are to get back into stores. And I think what we're saying. Those cases lower foot traffic bought higher conversion rates. So there's there's a lot of people who have pent up demand they POPs haven't adopted to online shopping these time and they really want to go. Try Things on by some nice things but this crates all these complications. Because it's you know. The question now is whether these retailers are able to create the Nice enough enjoyable enough shock environments for people to actually spend money and buy things. Well toilets look at these. Uk government guidelines. Is there an argument? Do you think any argument that portion from where we are now. He's at least a good place to stop from. I think hyper caution. No I think it's a bad place to start from and I think if you look at the narrative that we we see You know in in so many elements of of the the media in the UK and it's built from a place of fear and it's very interesting few look at it's interesting. How Jamie was sort of raising the issue of France or looking at the southwest of the. Us thing we look at many other countries. You don't see this constant you know I would say sort of discussion at a leader. Writers know where they're always raised in this question of SAFE SAFE SAFE. I think the UK is painted itself into a bit of a strange corner right now. Where they're I think. Creating sort of undue sense of panic about Just returned to work the whole discussion about schools et Cetera. So I think it's it's unique in that sense I think also we benchmark. I don't know who drew up these these guidelines because they have nothing to do with what we're seeing in some other countries which are now almost a month ahead Andrew word. I very very different place and so I think you going back to the first question. It's it's very heavy handed and I think crates. Navarre people aren't going to want to spend just to follow that up tyler. What are we learning from those reopening countries about how much reassurance you need to be able to project to staff and two customers? I think we if we just look at live examples here. You know what we've been seeing just living on the streets of Zurich right now and this is the really. I think curious. Bet You've got the government saying on one side that the retailers must abide or they're going to. They're going to be fine. They could go to jail up to two. Here's but what we see you let people out and you let them out and about in society and maybe the first thirty minutes when you released the first half day. Maybe you're tiptoeing around but I think as we've been saying throughout this whole thing we also go back to two habits both good and bad as as humankind. That's just what we do. And so I think what we've noticed you know already. There's a collapsing of social distancing. In Switzerland is two meters though. There is today little bit of late breaking news. We'll see what happens. We'll probably talk about a tomorrow. Andrew which is they're looking at collapsing. That a lot of discussion right now that do go down to two one. Meter certainly outside. They're talking about also now already football games Where you will have spectator so a lot of very very interesting discussions. This is very far away from Where we are in a out of London end and the UK. But I think what we've certainly seen at first hand People are drawn a bit closer together and I don't think you can hang on the retailer that suddenly you're going to get fined if if of course customers are coming store. They're spending money and then you're also telling them off at the same time Johnny if we look again at the global picture are we getting sense yet of where the retailers regarding the current situation as a thing for which they have to make temporary adjustments both in their thinking and in the you know the the physical manifestations of their stores or has the idea that shopping has somehow changed forever. Taken root I think I think I mean. I think they're waiting to see how it unfolds but I think it will be a short term measure. I think the more minutes about how do you abide by Health Regulations whilst creating an enjoyable shopping experience which oversees these big challenge? I think the regulations will continue to as as we go on because I think ultimately bricks and mortar stores. The appeal of them is creating experienced dot that easing joy. Easy exciting. That is different from what customers get. If you're sitting on your laptop and you know if consumers will open that kind of being with these rules and you can't touch anything and you know in some instances brands retailers on opening fitting brooms under that's part of the UK suggested regulations. He's not have fishing rooms. You'd I mean is removing one of the major Appealing things about going with these shop. Is You WANNA try on? You WanNa touch things so I think I think that. Have to be temporary in you know. They have to relax otherwise otherwise. It's kind of stripping physical retailers of their biggest selling point's well further on that tyler retailers obviously ferociously competitive arena and retailers will be competing for those customers which are returning. What's your sense of what's going to work? What's going to give people an age in getting people into their shops ahead of their competitors. I think part of it is probably just being a little bit pragmatic and and really. This doesn't mean sort of pushing it and no one wants to end up in a UK jail or prison for two years. But I think you being able to say let's take this early days As close to the edges possible And and still I think also just recognizing that people are responsible. I think you have to and this is. This is a broader issue. Can't just be down to retailers. But I think there there is this that have to be able to to trust the individual. I think that is the different narrative that we've seen either as we've been talking about this for the last two plus months There are some countries Which certainly treat people like adults? But there's there's a certain sort of infantilism action Of all of this and again it comes back. I think the document Andrew is thirty six pages in the UK We were talking about the return to the workplace document which I think is thirty two pages in the UK versus the Swiss version which is two point five and again. It just comes down to you. What what is the epidemiologists? Of course the heads of public health services. It comes down to the same thing. It is pretty much. Just keep your hands clean And you do keep your distance but most importantly if you're not feeling well stay home and that's what this still gets still down to toddler burleigh and Jamie authors. Thank you both very much for joining us. That was Monica editor-in-chief toddler burleigh fashion editor. Jamie waters you're listening to the briefing on monocle..
Should Coronavirus Face Masks Be a Fashion Statement
"We are going to wrap up before the end of the show with a reflection on the world of retail fashion. Joining us for that is more Nichols own fashion editor Jamie waters. Welcome back to the program. Johnny I'm enjoying early morning chats. Yes same highlighted by Monday. Thinks he's not being sarcastic. Listeners he really really means it. Let's talk about well. It's interesting sort of collision Jamie of the the pandemic into the world of fashion and this question about mosques and the becoming almost sort of fashion statements. How do you read? What's happening out there with this yet. There's this kind of interesting strange situation that's also has a sense of inevitability about where in a lot of places. I'm as masks becoming and trade that pot of people's everyday uniform now. Of course you're saying people starting to inject some sense of personality and style into what they're wearing so. I think in Asia. This has become very common correspondent. James Chambers is recent before about different colors can signify and that you know yellows with a lot of the cool kids wear and read and Etcetera Etcetera. And there's all kinds of different senses of style on now that we're seeing in a lot of us. Cds that mandatory by seeing that pickup and a lot of fashion Brown's astounding to so musk's and what they're doing is that we've done night some and so summoned to this this sort of offset being which makes it seem more sort of charitable. But then he saw the thing happened over the weekend my soul someone on social media basically from a luxury ecommerce site and it was a mosque by a big straightway brand because as an aside straight way brands have Masa they part of their collections for a long time they come in and out of fashion just as a fashion statement anyway and there was one of these mosques that was on the site and was going for. I think eight hundred dollars and then something about that just felt really odd and uncomfortable and the image was was circulated and reposted posted. And it's since been taken down the muscles being taken off that site but it does make me think about this idea of Opportunities and and how the kind of capitalist road works and that. Desi sense of course there will be demand for at some point that will be demand for luxury item luxury mass luxury protective items. And how that all fits into? I guess what we feel and how we think about the whole situation Jamie I guess. He's actually conner. Speaks to what we talked about last week. Which was the shift in aesthetics change maybe from consumers about how much they want to broadcast the brands that they're wearing or buying because clearly there's an unease about being seen to be you know profiteering from this awful situation and yet it's probably a good thing. If Russian companies and other manufacturers do divert resources to to make mouse. She does also. Is it part of that same? Shift away from this sort of shouting a branding. I mean that's that's kind of a lot of street wear has been built on the right exactly tied up with that we point. We're talking about last week. And people being really dizzy. Sense of not wanting to use State makes status have status symbols at the moment? I think mosques and other medical equipment but I mean particularly moss have these very kind of singular aspect to them where they are. They are just the ultimate hygiene that you know. They're a symbol of hygiene there a symbol of solidarity kind of all in all in this together. And when you wear one it's to protect yourself but it's also protect others added to that that they in short supply in a lot of places and that means that when they become expensive thing. That's the status symbol. It just doesn't see right against the all these other elements because they are ultimately decide. This symbol of protection dot is in short supply. A lot of places but I think we'll it does high into what you're saying about people now being really conscious of law goes anyway and a lot of straight where browns will self from that at the moment And these these issues that the Russian in the White House. Tush industry has where you know. How do you kind of float fashion? How do you sell products in a way? That doesn't feel tone-deaf at the moment But then you know we'll see these browns to make living in the need to Cape Shifting Product Cape workers employed and medical protective equipment. Mawson's I got a lot of brands have capability now. I've been donating a lot of of these kind of products. They can make them so if demand continues going into the future dot also seems just a sensible move. So there's a lot of tied up into these idea it's fascinating stuff Jamie always get your views. That's Monaco's fashion editor. Jamie waters joining us
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Entrepreneurs
"Peak and granddaughter of the founder of the Japanese outdoor apparel and gear firm. Yukio was an accomplishment near and started the brand in nineteen fifty eight to create climbing gear. That met his standards. Sloping has been known for decades in its home nation for peerless camping equipment. But in two thousand fourteen Lisa a trained fashion designer joining to lead the development of the companies. I ever apparel line. The world hold of hiking has been embraced by the fashion industry. Lately with luxury brands conjuring trae already boots backpacks and Parkas but when it comes to style and performance few can rival snow peak now the company which has eight firm footing in the US and Asia has come to the UK with an impressive. three-story flagship in central London. For this week's episode Lisa sat down with Monaco's fashion editor Jamie waters to discuss her vision for snow peak. Yes no peak founded in Nine hundred fifty eight of I. My grandfather us at the beginning of company it was is is Our distributor of Meta walks slope as the in Nevada factor is a super countryside over Japan Ban as a this city is very very show for the metal walks in the local manufacturing during so my grandfather has a are. His personal hobby is rock climbing. He went Low crime or almost every weekend then. Yeah he's dead to make a good choreography. Good good Japanese Gorazde. Climbing Year by hisself is also giving cause it's still very much a family run business so off after your grandfather then. Your Dad's took over at some point and made it. What did he he made it more of a mainstream camping? Yes My dot joined snow. Peak over thirty is a goal and like a low crime ing is Much much extreme outdoor activity and not like Use Your activity in Japan. Yeah my dad wanted into our dog. Culture should be except for Japanese lifestyle and yacht. He is hunting going camping business. For said he is then is your into snow. Peak in twenty twelve and I prepared Studied I knew a pro business is no peak and it started and twenty fourteen. And it's interesting because I think a lot of Western consumers and definitely. I came across the brand around through the fashion line. which as you say you launched in two thousand and fourteen so it's interesting brand because I think for a lot of people who in western countries it's perceived as being they know as being an outdoor clothing brand even though it's got this long history as a camping the having all the tools and the medical equipment and all of that? So why did you want to launch the clothing line. And can you explain to me about what the clothing line has done to make. The brand better known to an audience outside Japan like for the clothing line has been hustle us. Oh I had to fuck ground outdoor in fashion culture and When I joined snow peak two of our this industry was to separated? And so so I wanNA A bridge Fashion Culture to outdoor Collagen mixing together. I wanted create new outdoor fashion culture based in Japan like snow. Big created japanese-styled campaign culture in Japan are too loud y also. I wanted to same things by adore fashion. Yeah what's what's the what's the breakdown. Now in terms of how much of the business is fashion represent and how much of the business is represented by proper camping equipment. wittment arbitrary business still small maybe fifteen percent over the whole snow peak business us because a snow peak is hungering. The camping business for thirty years but upper just started five. Be as a goal but pro-business deal growing up in the war. What are your future plans for the brand? How do you say the brand guessing? And you've you've now got you've got shops in America. You've just opened in London in numerous Asian countries. What's what's in the future? What do you want it to become my future print in snow peak? It's a snow peak creative. More variable lifestyle are it's like life Barroux are for the worldwide customer and the more wider audience are feeling nature's In their lifestyle it's like boxer Fox two more primitive life failing nature boxer the more human being by outdoor things yet camping and hiking or failing natural materials by crossing. Yeah like that you organize. It is a lot of camping events and things don't you. It's not just that you have shops. You also organizing these kind of things for people to experience the he I In Japan Snow Peak has over thirty times camping event with US nope. He Consumers Schumer's like snow peak stuff a camping with our users together and also our customer feedback. Some positive opinion and negative opinion are two directory to snow peak. Yeah it's very very important things. Yeah so we got a lot of feedback. Directly Xfi from our consumers are weekend make much better product by Dale pinions and improve products and Cyrus also. Yeah that's very important things for the brand. How important is is it to you? That snow peak is a family run business. And what's it like fi you to work with your dad and in this kind of Heritage Family Company ooh Good question yes I love formerly business. Bod God is like a sometimes berry good sometimes is to like fighting it crying as a Racecar my dad and I being the same same spirit and all same spurious affi off for the hungering business and creating new products source something new business and the. It's very good sings. Osso my grandfather grade snow be culture and my dot More wider business by camping and I created our new upper business or in other industry. You're my family's spirit. is a pasta onto next generation. Yeah it's so sweet losing your my executive vice president of snow peak speaking to Monaco's fashion editor. Jamie waters you can read more about. Lisa's plans for the family. Business in Monaco's December January issue on newsstands. Now thanks to Lisa for her time and to Jamie for conducting this interview. The show was mixed edited by doing Allen. I'm Daniel Beach. Thank you so much for listening. Thank you bye.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Weekly
"And here to make sense of what could be a torrid few days ahead as Markle's own page Reynolds. Good off noon pays nice to see you in your Sunday. Finery? What's your the forthcoming seven days? Well, there's there's quite a bit going on. I think the big story of the week will be the meaningful vote happening in the UK parliament on Brexit. So last week we saw some five days of really heated debates on one of the outcomes was a quite controversial decision by the speaker of the house John burqa who by the end of Wednesday had enabled MP's vote for an amendment that have made deal is defeated on cheese day, she'll need to present a plan b in at most three days. So I think thrown a spotter in the works for sort of whatever happens on Tuesday said this vote was delayed from December eleventh that was meant to happen. So make it sort of go around Europe trying to cajole some support. Unfortunately, a defeat is looking likely. So we'll we'll see I was going to ask us inch. It's being termed a meaningful vote. It's the meaning could be lacking. Depending. I may mean nothing if it's fated and we get closer. No. I think it definitely could mean nothing, but I think the sort of what what next will become a little bit clearer. I'm so they're all going to be some outcomes. So perhaps labor might propose of no confidence to force general election. We might see parliament pushing for a second referendum, and we might just get a little bit closer to that much dreaded no deal. So all we could say today to that much twenty-ninth. Yeah. That's surely the most likely outcome of this. However, we're probably hostage fortune talking any further. So let's move on what else Iran so fashion season has well and truly kicked off some Monaco's fashion editor Jamie waters has begun his grand European tour last week he was in pity warmer in Florence he's now in Milan for men's fashion week there and this week will have the start of the big major event, which is Paris men's fashion week. So it's going to be held firm. Choose day the fifteenth through to Sunday, and we've got all the big names. So it starts out with a show from hereon Preston, who's the sort of cultural icon of the street west seen on it closes with us. More classical menswear Brown selene, and there are a few things to watch out for. So we've got food to gun ruse follow up collections since his return to the industry. So he used to be previously with Gasol, and he showcased his opponents label for the first time law some at pity, and he's quite Auty essential theme of water running through his first collection. It was quite conceptual. So be interesting to see what his second offerings will look like we've also got Kris van ashes first ability runway after leaving your own and Kim Jones latest forty or on looking at the the echoes of that men's west switch up that we saw last year be interesting to interesting to see how it pans out. I've been reading not recently about the kind of gradually declining fortunes of. Street where which obviously has become a cornerstone of both label and highstreet fashion buffets netted to see what what comes back from this. When XT Finally I thought we have a look at as well as sort of the fashion season kicking also got the award season. I'm in the film industry, kicking off save had the Golden Globes. The BAFTA nominations also announced last week, but a foam that's being released in the UK this week perhaps to slightly less fanfare than his previous work is Barry Jenkins Jenkins's. If Bill street could talk which is being released in the UK on Friday, so many will know Jenkins as the director of moonlight, which after slide fiasco was awarded best picture the Oscars in two thousand seventeen and if Bill street could talk is the first actual English language adaptation of James, Baldwin's work. And I think we we actually did an elitist season of the big interview of very own Ben Ryland interviewed by junk. Pins about his life about his work. And I think he was extremely excited to to take on such an icon as such as James Baldwin and sort of put that onto the screen. So I'll be hoping trade to see how that if people want to hear that Barry Jenkins interview. With Ben episode Ninety-three of the begin to broke seconds seven twenty eight I think stuff page plenty those stories, which you can hear a great deal more about by staying chain to monocle twenty four in the next seven days..
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Daily
"She comes up for reelection or attempt to reelection two years time the issue really is. She is not probably keen on getting too close to Americana Trump because they didn't want to be played as a fallen in the battle between American the US Trump has obviously a bigger consideration about how to deal with China being, you know, having Taiwan as useful point in that guy. I mean that would be something that wouldn't really suit Taiwan on the other hand they want to buy too much with China's hippies trading pumps like seventy percent. Seventy five percent nitrate is with China. What are they doing? So they're gonna policy cool to go south policy of trying to find other partners trying to reach out to the international community. And basically making sure that their alliance is a strong enough. The people know that wouldn't be acceptable for a flag democracy to be attacked by known democracy. So they're just trying to help that. Line at the moment. Kenny ban from King's College in author of China's world, thank you very much for joining us on monocle twenty fool. You're listening to the monocle daily in a moment we had to Florence the latest on the pity woman's but trade show, but I with time at twenty three twenty five in Rome twenty to twenty five here in London. His a summary of the latest world news headlines. The US President Donald Trump says the refusal of funding for Buddha will with Mexico is a growing humanitarian and security crisis. But in a recent televised address, Mr. Trump didn't declared a national emergency that would have bypassed congress to fund the will he reportedly walked out of a meeting with Democrats held to try to resolve the standoff, the UK Prime Minister Theresa May's losing space to maneuver politically. After the British house of parliament voted. She must set out a plan B, the Brexit should check his plan. B voted down at a crucial contest in the house next week. If Mrs Maes plan, eighth fails, she'll have just three days to silt out another option and a former minister in Israel has admitted spying for Iran, Ghana and Segev who is an energy minister in the nineteen nineties. This to be jailed for eleven years. Israeli Justice ministry says he reached a plea bug enough to confessing to severe espionage passing information to an enemy country. You're listening to the multiple daily. You're listening to the monocle daily with me Emma, Nelson, and let's head to the spectacular city of Florence pity warm. Oh, the Florentine menswear trade show is in full swing who's twelve hundred brands being showcased where we needed someone to do the heavy lifting for us, a Monaco's fashioned Edison. Jamie waters is the men taking on the task in between mouthfuls of spaghetti, Jamie. How is life in Florence tonight? Yes. It's it's pretty good ever really can play. We've just been out having executive that having spaghetti and sit of Nagorno knees. And it's you know, it's a it's a beautiful city to Bain, although very chilly at the moment these freezing. But inbetween taking a welcome break from all the eating and drinking at there's a small matter of PT womb. Oh, how is that Bain today yet it's been really good on its very busy this season. Awesome. Winter is is a is. It's a it is busier than the the psalmist season is just a kind of big industry. But to that we we were at one of the big drum way shows tonight. And so what he does really. Well, I mean, the the main event is the Fortezza the bus on. That's where you know days twelve hundred brands have stance and everything, but then they also host these special sort of rock one off runway events runway choice today. There's only one to feature designers who stays these kind of spectacular shows. I one of those tonight, and the designer was why projects which is a prison liable. It's the credits is a Belgian guy code Glenn mountains. And it's a very very respected brand. That's very cool at the moment. And what's so good about PC? The bees runway intensive design is is that they have they have time to for these my shirts time, the paper to off the paper to kind of absorb the shows talk about them off to it's it's really inexperienced. What happens in Paris fashion? Waco milan. Is this such a tight schedule that people are just running between shows?.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"And finally London's police force which is called the metropolitan police service is looking to follow the NYPD's example by using its name brand clothing and other merchandise, but will it take off while Monaco's fashion editor, Jamie waters joins me now in the studio. Looking quite military yourself brand new military haircuts have to say, very nice, Jamie. This has precedent. The NYPD's the line of fashion that they have has been pretty successful massively successful. And the the the met has has cited and my pity as their kind of inspiration. I mean, payday merchandise is it's all over the place in York and LAPD was also successful that's worth millions and millions. I think that's kind of what they're thinking. That's what they've said that they're inspired by. But I think this is quite a different case there. It's a very different brand. Because he's talking about the place as a brand. And the that London's place is a very different kind of cased from from New York. And so what exactly they planning clothing stationery? What will it be? Yes. So yeah. Some clothing, I think some homeware stationary. They've done a few a few paces that you can that they've already had like cufflinks and. And then a bear. But it will be more caps, which is the famous NYPD one. I perhaps these that's kind of what you imagine that sort of thing. Yeah. And then I guess Mogs, and and that sort of thing and the other the other kind of example that closer to home is is charts for London which does have its own merchandise. But I think that's probably not I don't wanna be looking to that as the inspiration because I think that's I mean, that's no winner successful as NYPD's merch. I wonder how successful this will be though because British people don't some of them. Don't have a great relationship with the Mets not seen as anything, particularly cool. So he's likely to wear NPS branded clothing, this is this is the kind of question because the NYPD an LAPD the is a sexiness to that brand which is from years of pop culture and Americans do by that you say NYPD merch on select. Liberties quite often get to the publicy. I mean, I think London is not like could it be buying this? So it will. I mean, the plan is over foreigners the hope so. Yeah. And it's not actually done by the false itself. There's a branding company taking care of this year. There's a good a good branding agency point eight or one which has done branding for the take galleries and filet on. And it's got it's got good customer. So I mean, I'm sure to job of the branding. But it's the question of whether you know, visually may look nice. But it's the whole perception of the Brad's it's about more than what what the actual much looks like means this with the met nor the the Scotland Scotland Yard that will be, you know, it's more than just the visuals chance that people might impersonate police officers by wearing yes, this is also something that's been brazen. They've said that strict regulations about that the merchandise can't be the same as as the actual. Uniforms. But I mean that of course, that makes sense. That's good. But I think if you're out at night, or whatever you might not no one's going to know. Exactly. They might think it's variation of the uniform. I don't think we're going to be okay. No that's not the official uniform because I'm fully aware of all the regulations. So that is something that, you know, something that's been raised. And you know, they've kind of. Who knows there's been some questionnaires online. I've been looking at it about people aren't whether or not they would buy it. And one of the reasons that people giving that they don't wanna be confused for police officer. I hate it. What a great Halloween idea for tonight. Sure, we could be just as police, Jamie. Thank you very much. Indeed, Jamie waters is Monaco's fashion editor, and that's all that. This addition of the briefing. It was produced by Reese, James and researched by yearning, gopher and math. Lebron a stadium. It was Christie Evans, the beating is back tomorrow at the same time you join Andrew from the Dory. House live at eighteen hundred dollars here in London that's thirteen hundred in New York thirteen God. Thank you. Phil listening.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Weekly
"We have the proper person today it and it was amazing. But I kind of like made a road for my own back because it meant for that whole kind of like year of the album. Every time you know, I with a, we'd have to have like an hour of statics before I did the makeup, but but it was great. I mean, it's an interesting process like, how does that sort of collaborative process work? I mean, I'm very different depending on who the different people out, but it kind of general dynamic between yourself. You know, design a photographer like how does the tame what someone give you type breif? Is there a lot of interaction between you and the other kind of members of creative team? I guess I'll taste make Make apologies. apologies. It's all about teamwork, but you know, it can either be, you know, a talk a month before with lots of preparation between you the designer, the stylist, the fashion director, maybe the head dresser or else it's night before. I mean, like sometimes if I'm doing say, say it's Vivienne Westwood show, you know, I will mate with her and Andrea's on some marine the night before the show. We'll talk through what the looks to be. And then I'm probably doing seven o'clock the next day, you know, showing my team, what we're going to do and just getting on with it. And you know, sometimes you can be completely prepared and sometimes you've gotta make up as you go along. There was one time that I worked with Vivian, and I've worked with Vivienne Westwood for many, many years. And usually I will go to the studio and I'm always expecting the unexpected. 'cause I never quite know what's going to be going on anyway. This particular day I won't in. I went up to Vienna. I said, okay, so high. Vivian Siwa. What's our muse this season. I, you know, like, what are we doing? Who's our women? And she just looked at me. And she said. Horses. And I said, yeah, yet. Okay. And she'd she'd gone. She it walked away. So she only said one word hoses. So then I went back to my team and psalms there. And I said, Siam what she say to you and he had this host of spiel about, you know what? I was going to be lie. They travelers. It was like a festival. I said, what you just said, hostess, I what she means. And so then I got the lovely, Joey. I said, right, let's get that's conquer goal. Let's look at hoses. Let's make story. We gotta make a story of this. So we started looking at the pilots of the animal and I said, okay, this is going to be our story. We're going to be working in black and white, and we're just going to do like the markings that you'll see on separa- a host is and that's what we did for the show. But you know, sometimes. Happy with a. She's talking with later on. I think it's like two or three days later. She said to be to foul, she said, I have to say the hostess show is one of my favorite make-up's you've ever done and all. I love it. She just sort of announced. And then that was it like. Vow calling this speaking to Jamie waters vows book validated. The make up a vow. Gaulan is out now and you a with the Monka weekly. And it four hundred
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"Let's wait to see what happens in two or three years time as fashion begins to reflect, hopefully what will happen in two years time with kind of begun so out some of these issues. And we've got a bit more confident about playfulness and sexuality and the they will come back because in the end, we like having sex and we'd like close just finally on this Andrew, very true fashion has always relied on the provocateur in one way or another. We had seen the run back in the seventies posing nude for his own label. Calvin Klein bringing the the, the tiny white briefs above the genes waistline where is the provoker in today's fashion? Do we need a little bit more rebelliousness injected into? It'll. Well, I again, I think some of the fashion houses they want their cake and eat it. They've had the likes of Alexander McQueen have had a John Galliano who who are provocateurs, but you one who, unfortunately committed suicide and one who got caught up in an anti-semitic which has nearly destroyed his Co. that he's made a something of an apology on a comeback. But I think they they, they won't rebelliousness, but they won't make sure is commercial. Again, coming back to Tom Ford. He certainly not going to say anything to ridiculous, but he has got independence because he owns his own company and that's allowed him to come out here. And he's not kind of dismissing these ideas if far from it, he's saying, this is a moment questionnaire, but let's not give up on the idea that in the end, people kind of want to look hot in their clothes, and that will come back even if for the moment, people want to feel a bit more safe androgynous and kind of know on the market as it were that will. Eban flow. As we feel confident about the social mores around us. Monaco's editor, Andrew, tuck. Thanks for coming in on the briefing today. You can read more of that interview with Tom Ford. In the current edition of monocle magazine. It is of course by Jamie waters, Monaco's fashion.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"The social media giant is blocked in the country, and the move is an apparent attempt to break into the lucrative market. The firm said that its new office would help Chinese developers and startups. Those are some of the headlines we're following today here on monocle twenty four. Donald Trump's daughter Ivanka has decided to close down her fashion brand at comes year after she split from the company to become a senior advisor in the White House. I'm joined in the studio by Monaco's fashion editor. Jamie waters can have a new Jamie, first of all, was this a surprise? Was there any specific reason given? Yes, I'm in the reason given by Vancouver. Was she wanted to focus on her kind of role and responsibilities in Washington, as you said she? She stepped away year ago, and I think. It's been kind of a the. The brand has struggled. Basically, since Trump was elected in many ways, it's been you kind of used as a lightning, broad, full criticism of the Trump administration on on its policies. And you know, for instance, I so it's things I when Trump was sort of championing made in the US Ivanka's Brown was criticized because it it's manufacturing in India, Bangladesh, China. So it kind of was used as a white, you know, people kind of, you know, put it against Trump's policies and basically I think it has. It's not doing very well. So these hasn't made said she said she wants to focus on on heroism in Washington. But you know, in recent, I in the past kind of year, it's being dropped by Nordstrom. It's just this just this month that was dropped by Hudson's bay in Canada. And I've said because of CEOs, I mean, other people have said as well that it's kind of some stores pop shop as a form of kind of silent protests, right? More political than just to sales, which they'll back it up. Yeah, but but I think essentially it seems it seems that it's not being selling well, and it's obviously that that situation where the brand is connected to the name, it's so intrinsically connected Ivanka step twice. So she's not running anymore. She still does prophet. She, you know, she, she makes money for pocket. Some of the prophets she's too is connected through trust, but she's not running it, but you know, it's got her name on so the, you know, such a tight connection to her, which is kind of these funny thing when when a brand is named off to someone, people always going to associate it with that course. So it becomes a lot more than just the clothes that selling. And what happens now in in these situations with fashion brands? Is it taken over and renamed? Is it completely shut down? How does that work? So these. Funds being completely shut down. I believe that's what they've said. That kind of winding down everything they've, they've got sort of deals in China. The kind of this eighteen. It's an eighteenth strong team based in York, and I think it's completely winding down, so it's not too much more has been set at the moment, but you know, it will. I think it will continue to be sold for the next. You know, the short time on a it's on Amazon is because seller, I believe. But essentially, yeah. I mean, it's it's no more. She I, you know, she's kept always going to be saying she wants to focus on Washington for the time being whether or not will come back to east kind of another thing. Right. And what's been the reaction so far? No, we we talked a little bit about how sales haven't been good, and I've read that Donald Trump's brand has only sold one hotel chain or something like that since he came in office, so. So perhaps the brand isn't really strong right now for that Trump name but hasn't been any big reaction reaction in the fashion. World is going to make an impact at all..
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Daily
"To the french capital to the latest collections multiples freshman it's jamie waters spoke a little earlier daphne niece's about the expected highlights he started by explaining why the paris fashion week maybe more relevant this year than ever before so paris is definitely the one that everyone's talking about at the moment truly the top dog so i think there's been so many shifts in men's fashion weeks in the past couple of years and increasingly brands going to power so the big designers but also sort of small labels showing showrooms there it's just jam packed the shadow in terms of big good t romay shows in terms of small showrooms around the marais intensive of buys trade shows it's just like a covering every base at the moment so it's one that everyone's kind of talking about and obviously milan has the big italian houses but increasingly powers he's kind of gathering guttering brands so what's good about the schedule this year in particular would you say so there's a few sort of aiglon petted debuts at some of the big houses so virgil blow who is the hugely popular designer behind off white which is a straight where brand he's my his debut louis vitton louisville men's this so much aunties patient about what he will bring to the label he's replacing kim joins and that other igli anticipated kim joins who's moved to deal on so still within lvmh group this showing on consecutive days and i think we both of those two brands i mean lvmh is recording of hugely successful results at the moment that had a few shifts around especially within their menswear brands and i think it's just interesting i'm really intrigued to save design is going to bring on i think that both hugely popular designs big followings the two of the show is that people are sort of a mocking and in terms of smaller brands what are we expecting the thing that power stills really well is it has all the big luxury brands with all the glamour that they bring and the excitement as well as the french wants japanese designers as well it's got saline yohji yamamoto and calmed agus on it also has some really interesting smaller brands as well of saying general always as a really great runway show and then in terms of the sort of showrooms dotted across town a lot of them in the marais and you just get so many exit brands choosing to show that i mean there's like there's sharing that has like these stray leeann label mantle and it has like often that they show the british designer nicole's daily that.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Daily
"The right wing partner of his there in austria also making similar noises it's becoming more and more difficult for for her to to to hold her ground coordinates nick thank you very much for joining us on monocle twenty full time now to head to florence to hit the latest from pitchy woman one jamie waters is there for a snow and before jamie that we find out what's happening where you are there's movement at the top that partake vendetta yes yes there's a lot of because it's just been announced that thomas mile is leaving potato venit he's being the credit direct to that the seventeen years so it's kind of huge news i think for a few raisins one of the joel's in the carrying crown carrying luxury brand luxury kind of conglomerate and i think the fact that the size of the company's means it's being used also he's being such a long period of time which is increasing in the fashion industry today when krejci change all the time he's one of the longest standing credit directors is it a surprise i mean it's the brand hasn't been performing well in the past couple of years you know go doubts about two thousand twelve surpassed one billion in revenue and i think that point of the second biggest brand gucci in carrying group and it just hasn't in the last couple of years it's been overtaken by silo ron kind of hasn't got as much traction but the younger generation so i think you know eat it has not been performing as well so it's it is a big news can everyone talking about it and everyone has their own kind of thoughts but you know it is also quite solid to say.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"Finally on today's program deal oems creative director kris van assche is taking the top job at belutti joined in studio by markle's fashion editor jamie waters jamie he will tell us about this one we've seen lots of it well is it is it is there a merry go round of creative directors just yet i mean at the moment it does seem that way yeah the latest news today's kris van assche is replacing hider ackerman at bellucci but yet there's been in in the past of martin has been always changes we've in lvmh group so yeah van asked leaving your arm to go to bellucci hotta ackerman is out of bellucci kim joins leaving louis vitton go to your though virgil abbott come into the tone and any sluman is coming into selane so a lot of changes mostly keeping them within the group and i think a lot of them are contending men's where sorry i think it's a tells us a lot about sort of the lvmh group wanting to get on a sort of tap into the millennial on the next generation well it's going to ask you because what what what does it mean that there are so many moves and they're all within sort of connected stables is it about fresh because it's not completely fresh insight i it's it's interesting an do we we do seem to do we say this sick to klay from time to time with these sort of moves within within the kind of biggest biggest staples or is it strikes me as being slightly unusual paps.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"You're listening to the briefing first broadcast on the third of april twenty teen on monocle twenty four hello and welcome to the briefing coming to you live from studio one hair atma dory house in london i'm tom edwards coming up today at a very good call i suspect that we'll probably be meeting in the not too distant future to discuss the arms race which is getting out of control it's been confirmed that donald trump invited vladimir putin to the white house at the height of a diplomatic row we'll have the latest also ahead could strikes by franz his heart left unions be about to define emmanuel macron's presidency and if you think about the mediterranean beautiful bay that are very calm but these can be only for a few hours and then if you hours later that can be a store or the c can start to rumble monaco's weekly designed program gets new monica from today monaco undesired will preview the debut episode which is about living on water and jamie waters will be here to tell us about how the merry go round some of the world's biggest fashion houses is shaping up all that head hit on the briefing always made homemade towards let's begin with our top story today emmanuel macron is facing the biggest test of his presidency so far as union seek to halt his proposed labour reforms let's get more on this with tom burgess watson monaco's paris correspondent good often into you till always good to catch up with you and indeed this we've talked a little bit about the challenges macron was sure to face during his premiership but this is the the biggest i didn't know how how would you exactly describe this sort of scale of the problem as it confronts him today.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Briefing
"You're listening to the briefing first broadcast only 20th february 2018 on monocle 24 heyman hello and welcome to the briefing coming to live from studio one hey amador house in london until i do it's coming up is angela merkel mentoring her new secretary general for the country's top job also ahead we destabilised the week will receive is cities annoyance fooled smith government and equipment and so we can show many things with other cities in slow equipment called and smart cities the mayor of seoul we'll be telling us how the world's top cities are sharing their ideas for best practice and a bit later on an we'll find out why the sounded the iconic gibson guitars could be consigned to the dustbin of history and calls fashion editor jamie waters will be giving us his highlights from london fashion week all that ahead here on the briefing with me tom edwards let's begin without top story angela merkel has appointed aggressive crump kalomba as the secretary general of her christian democrat party her name might not trip off the tongue but suggestions all that marco screaming her for the country's top job while clinton peel used to be berlin correspondent and foreign editor at the financial times and he joins us now on the line good afternoon quentin thanks for being with us it's been a source has now of constant interest of late this idea of the mirko succession what are these latest moves tell us about what it could let like is interpreting this as if you like anointment to at least angela merkel's choice of successor she's been gold mini mirko for quite some time pro trump cut umbrella so she scene is very much centrist in the party now the problem for angela merkel has been twofold one she seen is weakened by her election results last time all.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Daily
"Radar and we spoke about it lost be met so you will see in that in the next six to eight months the indian external affairs minister of foreign affairs trying to do a lot more and this has happened since but the last year and a half once china stepped up military pressure on india that the need to balance it out in various ways with their neighbours immediate neighbours and the larger amid list in space and the potential from saudi arabia is huge india's fourth largest trading partner is absolately and it provides so much of india's energy true it does but again one there is this business element to it the other side of it is that in a while india will talk to the us about chinese human rights records here there is no mention of the so the empire and the problems which this all the embarrassed has and what is out in public domain that india remained remains very quiet on this issue wanted prides itself to be a democracy it has no problems working with the despotic regimes kidneys me thank you very much indeed solemness that avail for joining me in the studio with the newspaper review at at bottom luke john eric dill those things john feerick we had no to new york where the time is seventeen fifty in it's a men's fashion week on a fashion edison jamie waters is there for us jamie it's quite a new fixed is someone has said it's been told on to the women's fashion week how how does it feel way you will.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Globalist
"You know the number of riots and protests have been kept to a minimum i think the real question here is whether the riots that have happened over the lost the last week also all going to be put back in the books as so many have before we're seeing the riot police come out to try and do that but also the government tried to introduce measures that will calm popular discontent or whether it means that this going to be a new phase and the political calendar that is looking forward to possibly municipal elections in the next few months and then a parliamentary and presidential elections in 2019 skin to be overturned ten maxim crossborder intimation thank you you're listening to the clay blister monocle 24 ubs has over nine hundred investment analyst and from over one hundred different names in over nine hundred of the sharpest mowing the freshest thinkers in the world of finance today no one has mall no one knows small to find out how we can help you contact us yesterday let's head now to milan women's fashion week has just been taking place in monaco's fashion editor jamie waters is that jamie take the temperature of the menswear industry for us it's a very interesting time for them hence where industry at the moment of its differently in a state of flux and wave wearing allowed at the moment we've just plain in florence and basically it's a kind of time where each brand is working out what works best for them what former whether they want to be schori where they wanna presentation where they want us more stand at pc everyone's have workout where and when they schori so it's interesting because each of the different fashion which is changing so at the moment i think one of the big beneficiaries lawrence he's doing really well what truth standing out and i think one of the reasons is that through pc these essential trade show so kind of stands out from all the other fascinates has got something really different because you're going to stands from different brands you're not going to run shore's.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: The Globalist
"Office space tool they can't even begin to lobby their own company to maybe of space better what would be your tips for them in time to seek out a decent work environment i wonder also how would you advise companies who use freelances to accommodate them and work with them in terms of physical space i think proximity is the important thing i mean if we think about olah interactions whether that is with the charming folks the work at the supermarket on the checkout or whether that's people in the bank a lot of our interactions of been pared down in the name of efficiency and i really do think that two thousand eighteen has got to be the year we stopped talking to each other and that works on two levels one that you know the the old ladies who used to catch up with our friends at the grocery shop would talked to the nice tell her the supermarket and not being able to not doesn't create a great community in the same sense when we're designing work environments people have got to be able to wrap up against each other a little bit we talk about collaboration but actually collaboration rarely happens just over email you need to talk to people needs he the whites that their eyes you need to jot down the ideas on paper and i think that for free loan says it's important to fill part of something and whether that's here at monaco on they can come and have an ice stopped luncheon sits on a really uncomfortable but delightfully expensive juicer i think it's a good thing you've got to invest in the office space and you invent arrays of people to want to come to work and people will still have to come to work in the next year still to come will take a closer look at the redesign of a legacy business magazine but up next monocle sartorial sage himself jamie waters joins us to look back at the year in fashion this is an extraordinarily special design themed edition of the globe list do stay tuned.
"jamie waters" Discussed on Monocle 24: Section D
"So how do you transformers sensory experience into a tangible one well when your product makes it off the shelves of peru's in department store colette amongst others you know you're probably doing something right this is what happened to fragrance brand lola james hoffa thanks to his distinctive brown gloss packaging and minimally designed labels monaco's jamie waters caught up with the man behind the brand rami mcdaddy to find out more i began my my life playing music and think he'd pictures really it's that's what i used to do an oas a teenager really playing music was lots of bans and taking pictures and beginning to understand what is movie theaters what is the cinemas that was really my first background and that part of art was my my love of arts and i did my studies and marketing and then i worked in perfume business that for me was really close to arts in marketing and products because you really talk about boy tree about memories and use lots of pictures lots of music lots of words it's really an amazing field that's encapsulating arts forms to make it products and and memories so i begin to develop in that field using what i have done when i was teenager and i begin to realize you're after year how in our amazing is interaction between the sound the image the smells when you work on perfume but also when you begin to have that mullet's you realize how.