2 Episode results for "Elizabeth Mohawk"
Memories of Dr. Martens, as distinctive footwear hits London Stock Exchange
"Hi damon fareless host of hunting warhead from. Cbc podcasts in. The norwegian newspaper fiji hunting. Warhead follows a global team of police and journalists says the attempt to dismantle a massive network of predators on the dark web winner of the grand prize for best investigative reporting the new york festivals and recommended by the guardian culture and the globe in mail. You can find hunting warhead on. Cbc listen or wherever you get your podcasts. This is a cbc podcast. Don't condone from. What is run. Your doctor martins on your feet. P towns in with a song called uniforms from nineteen eighty to back. Then you might have had the same uniform as pete. Wild hair ripped jeans braces suspenders. But if you weren't wearing a pair of doc martens were you really a- punk for kids of all generations the moment you i got your hands on the boots with yellow stitching is not a moment you tend to forget i bought them would have been somewhere around ninety. Two ninety three probably fourteen years old. Got them at a store down on queen street. No longer there and can't remember the name but ten whole cherry red docks with leases big yellow stitching. That's toronto city councillor. Mike layton remembering his first pair and those were more than just shoes like it was the style at the time. I had long hair or dirty number jacket and ripped jeans and like the docks were part of the outfit. And i had an older sister who had gone through a phase of life as well and so it was a right of passage from me pretty comfortable but i wouldn't say the most comfortable pair of shoes i ever owned But it there were a lot of different styles when had their own thing and there was a lot to choose from. I suppose that kind of added to the experience you've got to customize and pick up the pair that was a reflection of your personality lisa. Lotta sir the author of encyclopedia gothica and goth and punk style vlogger also remembers her docks so the great thing goes off martin for me that they were cool but they were also comfortable talks. You could just. You could wear them anywhere. And i did. And i would go on vacation backpacking. I didn't bring extra boots. I bought one pair of boots and at one point i was living in in mexico for six months. Just in my doc martens so going to the beach doc. Martens going up for dinner doc. Martens it was like you kind of felt ridiculous if the beach but hey you know it's punk rock seventy three years after they were first invented. You can now buy a piece of that aristotle success for yourself. The company went live on the london. Stock exchange this week yes stocks and docks which does not sound particularly punk rock. Maybe that's just me. Elizabeth mohawk is creative director and senior curator at the shoe museum in toronto. Andrew groves professor fashion design at the university of westminster in the uk. Good morning to you both. Get morning andrew. I think a lot of us remember the first pair of docs. I came into toronto as a teenager and Went in some wild store and came out with a pair of boots that i thought i'd wear for the rest of my life. Do you remember saving up your money and buying a pair of those boots. Yeah absolutely i think. They'll right the passage for everybody Mine was in the nineteen hundred and the time of scar and by madness and going up to kind of town to bypass from russia holtz. So that was pat twenty whole boots at the time. Twenty twenty twenty different. How long did it take you to lace up to twenty whole boots. They were a nightmare. I have to say about ten of us wanting to look amazing but not realizing what pay so. It probably used to about fifteen minutes to put on in the museum. Elizabeth are there dachshund the collection. There are there. we don't have a lot But we do have never ever representative paris. Yes representative paris. What do you think that they represent you know. I think that the represents overarching we sort of an idea of rebellion sometimes disenfranchisement and they obviously are linked to a larger historical moments. Be they punk. Grunge sort of has a moment with them Gos- a fashion makes a lot of use. And so they've they've had different moments but each of those moments. I think connects to ideas of rebellion. Although they did start out as just a you know a form of work shoes andrew. How much lors tied up in these shoes. You talked about madness. And the scott movement what is it that doc symbolize aside from a pair of boots that you have on your feet. Well i think they really interesting because i think the crown of the contradictions because you know originally designing was tasty shoe for please postman very bark and cloth but then they're also actually rebellious as well and and you know there'd be more upon and the far-right Only looking but suckley erotic. So i think i think it's one of those objects that you can transform by the wear and they're to choose the very rare and like you were saying earlier you know to hear that other people very much remember time. They bought them. they are transformative. Go into object. And i think that having talked to him how transformative what happens when you put the boots on. Who do you become. i think. Is that the idea that you know putting those all amounting especially when you can kill a teenager. You're going to become another with that. It's going to give you all sorts of things you know so they claim to ideas of masculinity aggressors rebellious sore things but as a teenager growing up you see youth coach and subculture represent whichever one of the moment is usually that's malkin's that comes along with them elizabeth. They've also had an entered talks about aggression. They've had negative connotations associated various points in their history with skinhead movements with racist movements as well. How did that develop that link You know when the doc martin brand is brought over to england They get sort of adopted by the mod's matz break into multiple different groups. Some of them are very welcoming and inclusive in some are increasingly nationalistic. It's so because the itself becomes sort of a linked to ideas of the british working class. skinheads begin to use them as a uniform of both masculine masculinity the working class and british nationalism and so for the very fringe elements of of that group. They become the the sort of neo. Nazi skinheads and so that's really weird. That association begins. Do they still have that association today. Andrew i remember when i got my boots i mean part of it was you had to do this on the street. Decoding of who had different kinds of boots and in particular who had different colors of laces and there are certain laces that people believed meant certain things the boots that they were wearing. Is that still the same thing now andrew. Well it's two points in fact uniform so you can see anything that gets adopted and becomes uniform if you can look the proud boys and how they've adopted the ferry sheriff and finally it's a scary. Lots of people dressed the same because of connotation have also about myth or semi myth comes through. You know these. I coach ideas that certain races means certain things which going it's interesting because they mean different things maybe to straight community than to take community nothing that naming can be softened. He played with and some of the arkan's mythology all my stuff comes from it then becomes true. How elizabeth do docs move from being a symbol of anti fashion to something. That's very fashionable to something. That's on stock market and a company. That's worth something like five billion dollars you know. I think that in ninety six didn't you there. Reach begins to broaden and they kind of become a general statement about youthful rebellion. They begin to distance themselves from these more complicated political statements. And and and then you know today you see doc martens doing love collaborations. Marc jacobs of course famously. Put them on the runway and the nine elevating the high fashion platform. And i think one of the things that's interesting about this Focus on collaborations right. It's linked to what's happening within sneakers secret culture. The risk i think Is that if doc. Martens are used broadly now to add kind of aggressive statement to an otherwise innocuous fashion statement What happens win doc. Martens becomes so connected to ideas of high fashion that that currency has lost. And so you know. I've talked to about the converse. all star. Which is unchanging in its form came out in nineteen seventeen and it's still in its in. Its its usefulness is the fact that it is unchanging and it can be used kind of as anti fashion statement. And doc martin's i think is going to interesting moment. Where which way will it go. It will lose. Its currency as footwear of rebellion. If it treads down this road too far i mean i think those of us of a certain vintage. We love to look in the river mirror and say oh it was way better back then Or the meant more back then and those boots were something. Is there anything i mean. Maybe it's the converse. But is there anything and i asked this to you as a shoe historian in some ways that represents that sense of rebellion that when you put those shoes or those boots on it meant the same as it did when you put the docs on back in the eighties and the nineties. I mean that history isn't a race that history is still there and i think that That thrill is still related right But were also seeing particularly with gen z like a a stout bratz dolls. Which typically this. This look is it quote unquote. Sassy looks lectures. Heavy platform footwear. That sorta risks on doc martens and at so. I think that right now. A lot of younger people interested in fashion are looking back towards that moment. When the doc martin itself started to or its meaning started to really splinter where it gets used by marc jacobs where it gets up somewhat a feature of of Grunge where it still have. This punk legacy where the gothic lead look incorporates it because it's like a nineteenth century up and so i think that i'm doug martin's are having a bit of moment later those complexities from twenty years ago. Who do you see. You live in manchester andrew. Who do you see on the streets of manchester wearing docs these days. What sort of everyone. Because i think they've become the boot of the working class historical. So you know just people that don't really care about what they wear and also high fashion. So i think you know. It's very few brands that have to do that. So you say is managed to do that or maybe rayban sunglasses you come the iconic brand that everyone whereas you know. It's it's one of the reasons that being able to float themselves from the stock stock market. Because they have a meaning to everyone so therefore everyone feels they have and in the past investment even if he's not financial investment into the brand does part of you cringe when The boots that you used to love. Maybe you still love them when you see them floated on the stock market. Is you say no. Because i kind of these brands ultimately due to the to the people the way whatever happens to that you'll company that owns the riots and all of that bad. She belong to the people and it's up to the people also need to decide whether they still have that meaning or not if they if they still have that cultural meaning that i think that's fine and i think you know brands very taff. We've bought they do so. I think you know they're always thinking about how do any of those decisions saying those politics ships. They might be doing how much they reflect that core customers as well because they don't want to push them too far because they knew they were going to lose those core customers. Do you have any pairs left again. I think i've got to free pads. Still got the old ones. I wear out because they moult years. So they're very comfortable. Got pad you. Can you can punish them. They look good with the suit. So i i think that always good to be wearing so i can't see what happens. I can't see them going out of fashion roy anti fascist remain with us. You know sixty years enter. It's great to talk to you but thank you very much. Thank you and elizabeth thank you for the historical perspective on this. I love it thanks. Absolutely elizabeth mohawk is the creative director for the battery museum in toronto. Andrew groves is professor of fashion at the university of westminster in the united kingdom. We heard earlier from toronto city. Councillor mike layton remembering the day he bought his first pair of docs. he also remembers the day. He said goodbye. To those boots there are alternate. Demise is kind of a fun story. Because i was I was a camp counselor up at the nature science camp and somewhat northern ontario and they were pretty worn out by that stage. Ninety six and kiss was coming back as a as a big musical. Big rock and and A group of councillors decided we were gonna put on an epic lip sync. Get where we dressed up like kiss. And i turn the boots with using duct tape. I into a pair of platform shoes glued and taped on giant visa would underneath and brocton this platform shoes to a crowd of six to fifteen year olds while lip synching rock and roll all night. So they they ended well perhaps different style of music and they entered world in But they they they exited. They exited my world. Well we would love to hear from you. As elizabeth was hinting at shoes and boots mean. More than just things you wear on your feet. There is a cultural history and cultural baggage. That comes with them. Do you still have a pair of socks holes. What color laces do you remember. Buying your first pair of saving up money. And perhaps as i did heading into the big city from the country being freaked out by the people that i saw in the stores to buy the boots that helped define in some ways You wanted to be. We would love to hear your stories of doc. Martens tweet us at the currency or send us an e mail. The current at cbc dot ca for more cbc podcasts. Go to cbc dot ca slash podcasts.
Who Wore High-Heeled Shoes First?
"At IBM problems inspire us to push the world forward. That's why so many people work with us on everything from city traffic to ocean plastic smart loves problems. IBM A. B. M. Let's put smart to work visit. IBM DOT COM slash smart to learn more come to brainstorm a production of iheartradio. Hey rain stuff lauren bogle Bam here although these days wearing shoes with high heels mostly coated feminine the original Wears High High heels were men so what's the history here when where and why did people I begin wearing shoes with elevated heels we spoke by email email with Elizabeth Mohawk senior curator Toronto's Batta Shoe Museum who says she has yet to unravel this mystery. The exact origin of high heels remains needs to be discovered. What's clear however is it. High heels. Were not a European invention heeled footwear only emerged in western Europe around the turn of the seventeenth century but had been warn for hundreds of years prior throughout Western Asia Similar Hawk said evidence for early Western Asian heels as far back as Tenth Century Persia suggests a strong relationship to horseback riding and may have been connected to the innovation of the stirrup the store profoundly changed horseback riding and in particular made military campaigns on horseback more effective as as an enabled riders to steady themselves in dramatically improved the effectiveness of weapons such as the Lance and Bowen Aero. He'll seems to have been a further development of this technology as it allowed the wearer to hook his feet in the stirrups better angering him to his steed eventually heeled footwear for men spread to Europe likely three political networks works and trade but the exact evolution is complicated so why did heels only become of interest to Europeans around the beginning of the sixteen hundreds civil heck said the answer lies and things it's complex European world exploration and the destablizing the textile trade to the rise of Persia under the reign shot a bus the first from fifteen eighty the eight to sixteen twenty nine and both Persian and European concerns about the increasingly powerful Ottoman Empire in particular it was the power of Shah boasts the First Mountain Military Terry who wore heeled footwear that may have made heels appealing I to European men and ultimately to women as the he'll entered into upper class men's fashion and there was a concurrent trend in women's fashion to adopt certain aspects of men's attire some hawks said that the women who played with this trend were often quote the butt of ridicule the end there numerous offenses included their adoption of men's military inspired fashion including broadbrimmed hats ornamented with plumes doublets carrying weapons and wearing heels in the heels that both men and women wore in the early years of the seventeenth century were very low but they would rise for both sexes as the century progressed the the majority of powerful and privileged men wore heels through the seventeenth century and into the early eighteenth century in France during the reign of Louis the fourteenth from sixteen forty three to seventeen in fifteen wearing red high heels was a principal signifier of political privilege limited to the king and his courtiers beyond France red heels for men were at first associated associated with French sophistication but by the end of the seventeenth century they were increasingly seen as effeminate especially in England similar. Hawk said fueled. Oh by nascent enlightenment thinking and increasing nationalisms men's dress began to undergo a radical transformation at the end of the seventeenth century. It was in the early eighteenth century that men abandoned abandoned the he'll to women's fashions and the he'll became a signifier femininity. Those shifts included a heightened division between men's and women's tire as as well as March differences between French English men's dress some will hawk said since the Seventeenth Century Western culture has shown extreme sensitivity to men in heels especially if it's deemed that the heels are being used to increase height she notes that this negative view only increased Darwinian ideas of survival of the fittest became came translated into racist and sexist notions of natural male physical and mental superiority but heels for man made a brief comeback in the middle of the twentieth any of century SIMILAC explained the he'll began rising in men's fashion in the nineteen sixties and in the early nineteen seventies reached unprecedented heights in direct response. I feel wheel to the burgeoning women's movement the heels and men's fashion however we're not borrowed from the female wardrobe they were block and high like Louie the fourteenth and were touted as a way increasing one stature masculinity and confidence in no way did they reference the Longstanding Feminine High and Thin Heal these days however however heels on men can be construed to emphasize a lack of height rather than compensating for it which means quote that heels on men function like a bad to pay they reveal insecurity and that in our current culture is deemed unappealing iconic footwear designer Christian Lubaton concurred to a news publication a man and heals. That's a prosthesis but I sympathize. The men need help but a man and heals is ridiculous clearly. Mr Lubaton doesn't watch the cowboy channel those BRONC and bull riders look pretty good or as someone hack puts it cowboys continue to own their heels and wear them with confidence today's episode certain Kerry Tatra and produced by tyler playing brain stuff is a production of iheartradio's. How stuff works ruinous and lots of other topics our home planet has networks dot com in or podcast. My heart radio visit the iheartradio APP apple podcasts or wherever you listen to your favorite shows Hello I'm Dr Q. and I've spent the last thirty years tracking down there and Banjo the two most important musicians of the twentieth twentieth century podcast narrated by Dennis Quaid featuring new music produced by t-bone Burnett written by Jerry Goose did and in Grammy Winning Songwriter Poobah bowling but the new song featuring original lyrics by Bob Dylan listened to bear in a banner on the iheartradio APP or wherever you get podcast.