FHM #31: The Cyclical Nature of Fashion
We are living in complicated times. I'm seventy rule. MSNBC ANCHOR NBC News Correspondent and in my new podcast modern rules. I'm going to be spending time unpacking packing. Some of the hairiest of today's top decided. I was going to be a survivor. Survivor fights back aboard. They want new. It's America listening subscribed to minute podcast modern rules on apple podcast the iheartradio APP wherever you get your podcast just the history of fashion is a production of Iheartradio over seven seven billion people in the world. We all have one thing in common every day. We all get dressed. Welcome to dressed the history of fashion a podcast where we explore the WHO what when of why we wear we are fashion storms and your hosts April Callaghan Cassidy Zachary welcome to the show. There's Day eight which means it's time for another fashion history mystery edition of dressed which we love but before we delve into today's topic we just wanted to remind all of our New York City listeners listeners that next week on Thursday September nineteenth we are going to be doing a live episode of trust at Bard. Yes the Bard Graduate Center. We should specify pacify perhaps and we're going to be joined by scholars. Margaret Darrow and season one guest Dr Cates Drostan and a panel discussion fashion anxiety in society in Gender in relation to their current exhibition French fashion women and the first World War and cast and I actually had the pleasure of seeing this this exhibit when it debuted in Paris a couple years ago back now cast Gera- three years ago so we're very excited to see this new incarnation which which is gonNa be on view until January here. They have lots of fun no things that they've added to this exhibition so many very cool things from an era that you and I both love love and you can get your tickets by heading over to. WWW dot p. g. c. dot bar dot. Edu Slash events to join us next week and speaking of exhibitions April you just had the pleasure of attending the opening of another must see fashion exhibition this week. He toss a little bit about fit's Paris capital of fashion. Shen yes so the opening was this past Thursday evening so approximately a week ago and it was so packed. I didn't even get to to read all the labels because I'm one of those people that goes to an exhibition every every single thing so you better bet that I will. We'll be visiting again. The entire show is chock full of some of the most supreme pieces of Paris fashion. You really all should go see it for yourself if you can but a couple of my favorite pieces well one of them was George dress that was featured in Richard Avedon series of fashion photographs of Davina with the elephants. Yes yeah I had never seen an actual address in person and in this shoot there's a couple different your dresses addresses that were used but this particular one was the long sleeved black dress with a white satin sash and both just below the bust and it is truly truly exquisite and although it's from the house at your it's believed to actually have been designed by the very young. Yves Saint Rot who was his assistant at the time so that was very cool and then another one of my favorites was actually a film costume. It's this sumptuous Black Velvet Robe La Francaise with gold embellishment and sequence that was created for the nineteen thirty eight film Rian to Annette and it was designed by none other than the famed Hollywood designer Adrian Adrian who we keep saying we're going to episode on and we promised to because he's incredible yes and so the show up and like we said until January twenty twenty any so stop by the museum at fit anytime Tuesday through Saturday afternoon it's always free always free and I am excited to see the exhibition ambition next week so to today's fashion history mystery while he comes to us from a listener Adrian who running back Eh Adrian to us and said growing up. I always heard the saying fashion is cyclical and have witnessed certain trends that made a comeback such as ripped jeans high waisted pants and chokers. Do you agree with the statement. If so which trends would you love to see make a comeback and which ones would you say are about to make comebacks in the near future. That is a great question Adrian. Yes it is and I agree. Fashion is absolutely cyclical. The fashion industry is really built. Upon this the idea of change you know what is new is soon old so on and so forth it just keeps going round and round and fashions ability to keep inventing and reinventing thing itself is what helps keep this chain of production going and fashion never changed. I mean what would we have to buy. NEW CLOTHES RIGHT CASTS SUSPEND MONEY. This is all part of capitalism friends of course and capitalism is just one reason fashion changes of course as we have seen throughout history fashion in trends can originate inside and outside the industry itself you just look at the influence of US street style on eighteen sixties fashion for instance but you can only have so many new ideas right so with thousands of years of wearing clothing to contest with it is perhaps not surprising that fashion repeats itself especially especially in today's Day and age where any designer is hard-pressed to not in some way or another repeat what someone else has already done in the past as accounts like at Diet Product. an act cash and copy are all about pointing on instagram yeah but repeating fashion is not necessarily all about copying or knocking taking off fashion it can also speak to any number of political social economical and cultural factors that influence what we put on our bodies and how the mass adoption certain types of garments accessories or the way that we style or where are closed makes it quote unquote trend and well cast and certainly not fashion forecasters we have never claimed to be. We both agree that an Adrian presented us with a really fun opportunity to talk about some of our favorite fashion fashion trends from history and what we would like to see come back and also the trends that well. We would be very happy to never ever see again yeah. So what am I favor. It trends in fashion. History is actually the decorated poofs of eighteenth century France. This was actually one of the very first episodes we did address the fashions worn at the court of Queen Marie Antoinette and King Louis the sixteenth and that episode included discussion about these elaborate wigs and up dues the decoration one of which reflect any number of trends that could change on the daily so you have had pieces covered in decorations that could reflect anything from various military battles you you know to entire fruit baskets. I'm pretty certain that this is you know sort of intense. Spectacle fashion might not find as many willing participants in today's Today's modern age as in the course of eighteenth century France but it was certainly be fun if it did yeah. I WanNa know what happened to those fruits after they got done wearing them like they eat them. They get thrown out so poofs. Definitely were fun trend for sure but I mean think about out living in New York City. Where would you store all your wigs. You'd have to have a whole separate room where I'm sure there are plenty of drag Queens here in New York that do I. I know that's very true. It's it's modern incarnation yet but I think I have to say. I've been looking at a lot of fashion magazines from the nineteen seventy I do use castrol late seventies and early eighties lately and I vote that we bring back the look of disco because this is one of my favorite time period reads think those Slinky Jersey v-neck dresses that are like all the way down to their and Chunky high hills feathered hair her in the period of makeup really very specific. There were lots of color at the is in the lip again one of my all time favorite periods think Bianca Jagger think uncall- Stan thinks studio fifty four yes so let's see one fashion accessory that I would love to make a comeback is the shadowing we already did the history mystery episode on this accessory earlier in the season but I think they are too fabulous to not come back into ladies and gentlemen's Wardrobe so I mean purses are just just so cumbersome and why not wear everything you could possibly need on your waist. Also this is why I am in love with the recent trend for fanny packs that is definitely one trend that I think will always be in and out of fashion for sure and I'm. I'm glad that you mentioned the chatelaine which is kind of like this obscure. I don't know accessory jewelry type object to of. I think I would like to see come back. Actually also obscure jewelry objects I would love to see dress clips comeback and for anybody who doesn't know dress clips were almost like little broaches except they were they were actually clips. I think about like clip on airings and they were very popular during the nineteen thirties in the nineteen forties and you just clip them around your neck line almost like a little broach so those are very fun and another one which is days all the way back to the Victorian era where skirt razors cast you know about these right yeah. I was in my head. I was thinking is she. GonNa mention skirt razors because it's kind of the same concept yeah yeah for sure so they were kind of clips where you could lower and raise the head of your skirt depending on where you're going and frequently they were worn during the day especially when women are outside walking around around the dusty dirty streets but some of them were quite decorative this quasi practical accessory but also a decorative. Greta form of jewelry of sorts. Yes they're very very cool. We should actually try to post pictures. If we have any so my next on let's see I don't know if you can call this a trend but I I am a huge fan of the emergence of more and more designer's going to up cycling and recycling to create their garments two of my favorite companies these include neo threads and by Eric and I just had the pleasure actually of seeing ems collection just last month at the Santa Fe Indian market annual fashion showcase of of indigenous designers. Stay tuned. We're going to have an episode on that coming up but her clothes are all made to order and her Brooklyn Studio and the company's website confirms that they're quote strict on our minimal waste policy and are always trying to find ways to reinvent leftovers and scrap material and turn them into fabulous fashions so very cool business concept concept and really really cool designs and neo threats is the brainchild of Sara Gonzalez whose company is dedicated to the transformation of discarded clothing into fresh one of a kind hind pieces their motto schoolgirls care and I could not agree more. Both of these companies are amazing and up cycling. Just might be the future of fashion. Russian and I really hope so well funny that you mention that because I would like to talk about FAB scrap. Who Do you know about FAB scrap. I do not Oh okay well. Let me tell you so fab. Scrap is not for profit. That's here in New York City. They have two different locations. There's one in Manhattan and there's also one in Brooklyn and they also have an online presence at FAB scrap dot org so that's F. A. B. S. C. R. A. P. and what they do is so cool. Basically they will go around two locations here in the garment district or other design studios in New York City and they'll pick up your leftover fabric and Dan they have a couple of different warehouses where everything gets sorted and then you can actually go purchase fabric for extremely low costs which is Richard really really neat and some of the designers and manufacturers that donate their scraps to FAB scrap include Marc Jacobs Oscar de la Renta Badgley Miss Ah Carolina Herrera so these are like you know high quality textiles that you can buy and you can also buy online and they will ship them to you so for all all of your listeners out there who so checkout FAB scrap dot org and they're also always looking for volunteers to help with the sorting process and if you volunteer for three hours you automatically get five pounds of free fabric and after that it's only three dollars a pound so stocking go oh and also they're not for profit so if you like what they're doing I'm sure they would love to receive your monetary donation as well. Yes renew reuse recycle cycle where all about it so cool and so many companies are just a few of the many many companies that have kind of jumped on the environmentally friendly Eco Sustainable Sustainable Up Cycling Bandwagon so let's keep that Wagon Rowley okay what else you want to never ever see. I don't know about you April but as a new PhD student on a college campus I have to say that athletes trend the athletes leaders trying to say is in full effect and I'm not kidding seventy five percent of the young women here where athletically to school and I'm GonNa have to blame the Kardashians for that one. I think although it's not just for the ladies I have to say my husband is also a convert to the idea of athletes daywear yeah yeah well. I mean I have to admit sometimes like if I have to run an errand like I'm just going to pop over the grocery store or something like that might wear leggings but I'm not going to wear them out to like a proper way hyperactivity but you're right cast it's all over the fit campus as well I walked out of my office the other day because somebody had knocked on my door and I answered it and the girl was wearing biker shorts and a crop sweatshirt sweatshirt and sneakers and right I was like Oh that's the exact outfit that I was trying. I would leave volleyball practice and hike and the fact that it's on the campus confirms that this is fashion adorable but I was just like Oh. I've warned that before a two one fashion trend that I have grown to have a new appreciation for but don't think it ever needs actually come into fashion is the G-go or leg-o-mutton sleeve which are wide poofy sleeves seen in the eighteen thirties the eighteen ninety s and on the runway the last few years and yes it is French and pronounce announce G-go but I actually prefer the literal fashion Gago especially when you say it in reference to American duchesses go go girl gang because of the alliteration and abby and Loren actually guests on the show earlier this season and we talked about there she go go girl gang of eighteen thirties wearing a friends and they actually recently published a video of the gang on scooters and fabulous Tsuguga immediately but as a trend not really a fan literally your sleeves are competing with your head for attention yeah and speaking of abby and Loren. I'm actually going to see them this week yeah they are coming to fit and and to do an event for our love your library series because they just published a new book on Eighteenth Century beauty which we've actually mentioned on the podcast already but the book teaches you how to do eighteenth century hair right which is incredible and they also have recipes in there for all the Pa- made and you know L. Hair powder and everything and so they're gonNA come to fit on Thursday and they are going to do a live demonstration on how to do eighteenth century here. Oh that sounds so fun you're going to have to post some pictures on our address to count yeah and I also think they're giving a lecture at the New York Arts Club on Friday which is free as part of their fashion Fridays Friday's of it. Oh cool so everybody check that out. Finally I really am a fan of the recent trend for high wasted jeans one and gene trend. I'm not a fan of its exact opposite the low rise we all were them. You know you did too. Oh Yeah I mean I was a teenager with a flat stomach wearing low rise jeans and the Ubiquitous Thong undergarment but new longer and I have a sneaking suspicion that they they are on their way back April because as Paul poiret once said every excess and matters a fashion is a sign of the end so you know pants as Ghana's really as high as they can go oh and now it's time for them to go as low as they can go. Although we shall see if McQueen's dumpsters every make a reappearance yeah I bet they will on that note of of pants you know what I would love to see him back and I do see them here and there sailor payouts. Oh yes Taylor pants. I think there's super flattering on everyone. You know that that little kind of like higher waist with the really wide bottom legs I think just about everyone can Iraq this yeah and then they have the two rows of buttons to your a high waisted pants are really flattering so I'm all about it but I- sneaking suspicion that those low rises are on their way back into our war a not mind but onto the runway perhaps we shall see. I have one more thing to add something. I would like to go away and that is these really short. Jean Insurance where the pockets are hanging out. You know what I'm Dan. That's not all that taking out yeah. Oh I have seen some things. Let I tell you it's the bottom part of your bum. It is that is affect an actually saw somebody who's lady parts. Were a little bit exposed the other day. I was like do you. You know what's happening right now. Are you aware of the situation back there. GAM so as far as kind of prophesized if they're that shorts are literally literally underwear now so now maybe I don't know Capris or what are the shorts that come to your knee. Those are coming. What are those called under me to Bermuda shorts yet so yes Adrian Fashion Est cyclical aw thank you for this relief in question we had fun with it and that actually does it for us today. Dress listeners so we hope to see you next Thursday but if not we'd love to hear from you about your favorite and least favorite fashion trends in history so please write to us at dressed IHEARTMEDIA DOT com or direct message us on instagram addressed underscore podcast which is also our twitter handle and you can follow us on facebook address podcast with out the underscore. If you are a fan of the show and want to take a moment to rate and review us on Itunes we would be oh so grateful. Your support means so much to us and I think that does it. We would like to say thank you to our producers. Chris Casey Pilgrim Holly Fry and everyone else iheartradio who makes this show possible each and every week catches soon. Just the history of fashion is a production of iheartradio for podcast from iheartradio visit the iheartradio APP. Apple podcasts are ever you listen to your favorite shows. My Name is Danny Shapiro and I'm the host of family secrets a podcast about the secrets kept from US secrets. We keep from others and the secrets we keep from ourselves. Family secrets is a show where you can hear powerful stories of heartbreak healing and hope listen to season into a family secrets on apple podcasts the iheartradio APP or wherever you get your podcasts.