43: This Is Why Everyone's Talking About Fungal Acne
hello and welcome to eyewitness beauty the podcast where we talk about the biggest stories in the beauty industry each week. I'm nick axelrod welk. And i'm any creek bomb. My show intel. Is i guess. More of an arts and culture moments so thank you any. Have you seen wall street. The mark wahlberg. Hbo miniseries now is it. New is new. It came out like maybe two weeks ago a week ago but all six episodes are on. Hbo max and i have so many things to say about it. And i don't know if we want to talk about it once you've seen it so we can compare notes or whether i just you want me to spoil it but it is so i'm not a huge mark wahlberg fan so this will not make more. It's a documentary series about mark. Wahlberg the entrepreneur. Oh and it's so it's cameras following him around produced by his own production company which is also featured in the documentary while he runs his various businesses. Okay like they don't show him acting. It's not about like that side of it. It's about everything else and it is insane. The confidence that this guy has he like is making these t shirts that he just puts the word metropolis. No it's something hold on. What is it municipal you nipple okay. So he has a fashion line called municipal. But it's only just t shirts with the word municipal on them and so by version of street where they put the word street and into the sorace related word generator in the talent. So he has a t shirt line called municipal. He has a gym franchise which just seems to be a gym that he went to a couple and then he has wall burgers which is probably his most famous chain. Which like if mark wahlberg can't get a fucking hamburger right like it's a hamburger get it right. Why is he having trouble getting the hamburger. Yes he's having trouble like the t. l. Dr seventy trouble with all of these businesses like cova happens during the filming of the documentary. Production is all screwed up for municipal and he has to close some of his wall burgers and he like goes to like philly till like shake hands and kiss babies for the opening of the wall. Burgers has to be like the last bastion walberg territory. He's famously a racist and homophobic and has been arrested for hate crimes. Yes and they just all decided. We don't care and kate. Moss came out after the fact after the marky. Mark calvin klein ads. And it's like it was really weird and he does not do himself any favors. I mean so number one. You have to remember when you're watching this that. The entire show is produced by his production company. So this is obviously what he thought he thought would make him look good and number two what he wanted to people to see about his struggles and it is so twisted. If you actually start to think about the fact that he is one of the richest celebrities in the entire world and yet he can't do a goddamn thing in one of his businesses like i am shocked by the fact that he can't make a hamburger and he thought this was good pr. I guess. I haven't finished the whole series but like midway through. Nothing seems to be going. Well he lives in a house that looks like he was on the real housewives new jersey like i want like one of those houses that like you know you look rich in and there's like fountains and shit i wanna room. That's like a study that has books on the show. It's like this enormous. Like queen of versailles like weird house. It's insane. it's insane that it's being released. In twenty twenty one a assists white straight male like with five failed businesses is like getting airtime like what and here. We are talking about it. I would have to say you might be part of the problem. I might you know what. I didn't think i had something to talk about. But this reminds me okay. Cancel mark wahlberg cancelled. Now i feel bad now. I don't know make your own choices about mark wahlberg but i just can't forget. His like very problematic past. Hollywood is so fun never forgiven. Mel gibson wasn't in like daddy daycare. Part five or something like recently and he made the passion of the side note. He's also working on a sequel. Anyway what's this equal any. I'm the ju- telling the christian but it's the resurrection hate to register you. He came out. Yeah three days later. The movie takes place three days later. I can imagine like the log line for this movie like three days later anyway. Okay so let's cancel mark wahlberg. I guess you yes made me feel better about that but justice for every other sist white male celebrities getting okay. This week a bunch of riot women have started releasing like dating videos where they wanna ben affleck but also chandler matthew perry really a girl yes so basically people on tiktok or on. Instagram are starting to release videos. That celebrities sent them all interacting with on dating website. So it's sort of like the evolution of screen shots of dm's with celebrities. That are sexier sketchy yet. Yeah it's an invasion of privacy. Especially with the ben affleck won because like he didn't do anything and neither did matthew. Perry in the creepiest part was like their friend was filming it to the side so they were having zoom hall or like facetime on her laptop and it's just so gross come on. Yeah the crazy thing about ben affleck and then i feel like this is only. We're only talking about celebrities that have nothing to do with the beauty industry. But the crazy thing about ben affleck is how the paparazzi are obsessed with him. Have you seen those pictures of. When he was dating anna arm they were literally taking a walk and there were seven paparazzi. All just like focusing their cameras on them either. He's in cahoots with the paparazzi. Or just ben affleck. Pictures are worth a lot of money. He's like iraq. I guess. I don't know i don't get it but everybody back. These women releasing these videos are gonna life my favorite take on. This was but he said the false narrative here is that it's like hard to fuck a celebrity. Which is true. Have you ever hooked up with the celebrity. Well the liberty. I would probably say. I've dated people that think. Don't they weren't search. The closest i got was. I made out with someone who is very famous in quebec star. He's not an american who's famous in quebec is like of quebec and incredibly famous in quebec. But if you're not in quebec you have no idea who he is. So low. Cost lab and micro influence if you will know. He's a legit. I remember asking. Him told me that he was famous in canada. And i was like well if you walk down the street like when people stop and stare like run and like scream and he was like yeah anybody listening to this who has been like an og like supporter of mine. I just wanna say it's moments like these that made me appreciate what you guys have done for me from genuinely the bottom of my heart. There have been times when i've been out with people that think that they're hot shit for whatever reason not just people i've dated but like friends and out of nowhere to leave his name out but i went to dinner in l. a. With some fancy you know be seen type restaurant the only this i would ever want to go to and we get heated by the hostess and this guy is looking around. He always thinks he's hot. Shit always like margiela or whatever else supposed to be like dresses like he thinks a famous person dresses and he's always with famous people. God love him but the hostess comes back to the table. The guys i got here we go and she's like sorry. Are you anne reading this stuff and this is not a lot but like enough times to where it made me feel good not only because it makes me feel nice that people like my rating but also leveled the playing field. Yes exactly anyway but now. I'm dating a supermodel. As you know there you go speaking of fans. I just wanted to shout out someone who is one of our readers who hollered at my dad in venice california who because he was wearing one of our baby merch pieces. That had like my daughter's name on it. My dad called me thinking. I'm literally the most famous person in the world he was like. I was just walking on lincoln boulevard and someone pulled over screens. Like are you nick. Axelrod's dad i was like yes. She was like oh. My god like i could tell from the t shirt and i was like Thank you for making me seem like a success. Now your dad walks around with his hat really low like aviators on. Who's like i just don't want to be recognized. This is really getting annoying. Should we do top stories. Yes where to begin. This week has been just one big story after another. I feel like the biggest story of the week. What would you say. Is i'd say jessica alba jessica alba took her company. The honest company public with an opening price that valued alba's roughly five percent stake in the company at approximately eight million dollars this according to the bloomberg billionaires index and she also has options stock options valued at about twenty one million dollars so she is really really rich by the time. You're listening to this jessica. Alba will be very rich and her husband cash no pun intended but is very wealthy to was very successful. So i mean. I imagine with the name like cash making this he went to yale. Heartache on ivy league schools is that now they're luxury brands. according to scott galloway host of pivot podcast. His argument is ivy league institutions. Are just selling you know a luxury brand education. They're not really offering a superior product just food for thought. Okay back to jessica alba very exciting for her. She has buried rags to riches story the way she tells it with very hard working parents health issues. When she was young and dot was impetus for wanting to start on his company. A brand like family baby products that are healthier for you and the environment. Which i appreciate here. I witnessed beauty also appreciate rich people rich famous people. It's been a little bit of a rocky road for the honest company with some valuations and funding round. That have been down. And i think this just goes to show that if you stay the course you can make it work. Also why do people call it. The dishonest company. There have been controversies. Because i feel like there is no one definition of what it means to be clean or aeko and so if you don't live up to somebody else's expectations are then suddenly. You're tough. that's a tough name for a company. it is isn't it well. They're honestly very very wealthy. Farfetched is the aggregate or of international luxury stores so that you can buy something in italy you know like some designer piece. And they'll send it to you overnight. They make it easy to buy from little boutiques around the world there in talks to acquire this according to the business of fashion. They're in talks to acquire violet gray which is interesting violet. Grey of course is the luxury beauty taylor. They used to have a store on melrose place. And is this very chic. Little hollywood jewel box of a brand. Founded by cassandra gray who is incredibly chic. And the widow of hollywood bigwig brad grey sound like. I'm reading a script but i'm not. This is just the truth. That's just the way people in hollywood talking seriously. So anyway farfetched is in talks to sort of i guess boost their beauty business through the acquisition of violet grey by the gray i think has been most successful according to me at really creating content around product launches and really like content defying so to speak like product launches. So my best memory of that is when they launched agustinus bader and they did like a really smart rollout where it was instagram stories in a video. That were like strung together. Kim kardashian like all these people talking about like oh did you hear about the new like this new crazy miracle cream. It created a lot of buzz and the thing about violet. Grey to is that because they have a committee of experts who approve every product that goes into the store to stamp of approval actually means quite a lot for brands and a lot of other retailers like a sephora or an ulta would maybe look towards violet gray and their assortment when they were looking at a new brands to take on. So it's like a trendsetting you taylor. It's a smart move. It depends on the price. I guess i don't get it though. I mean the idea that they're translating their catch all designer boutique type marketplace model to beauty. Don't understand beauty as ache with the exception of fast beauty which is not violet. Grays wheelhouse. I would say most of their products are evergreen. I just don't understand how far fetch makes sense. Not world will. Maybe it's more like a beauty contest. Play because the problem with stealing beauty on the internet is that sometimes you want to try it on or see how it feels and you can't return it so you know an interesting thing with like fulfilment and beauty products is that if you don't like something and you open it and then you can send it back that you can restock it and send it to someone else versus if it was a pair of pants. Beauty doesn't work like that so you really have to rely on content to tell the story of the products to ensure that the person who's getting it is getting what they expected and violet grey. Does that really well. So i could understand that. It'd be a leg up if they had that content machine. I don't know if you like. Farfetched was doing such a cool innovative things on the fashion side and they haven't even scratched the surface in terms of like circular fashion and really like being innovative when it comes to consume clothing from all around the world truly like what their name like far fetched finding hard to find designer even vintage clothing from all reaches of the earth and making it more accessible the beauty angle. Here just sounds to me like a bit of a dare. I say cash warren. Grab than something that feels like. It makes sense from a mission perspective. Other interesting news out of violet that they have hired sarah brown. Who is the former beauty director of vogue and sort of an og beauty writer in new york to be their new face of their editorial platform. So i think she's what she called executive director and she's also overseeing something called violet labs which is where they're incubating their own potential beauty products but also like they've been making a lot of merch recently like sweatshirts and little makeup bag so maybe they're also reading their own line of products. Interesting moves like violet. Grey is doing something right because they've been around for quite some time and i think pivoted smartly you know when it's been more about content or less about content or more about products like i've been pretty impressed with how they have moved around speaking of really incredible content and beauty products zara announced this past week that they are launching beauty in a big way. I guess in the past. They've done like a lipstick collection here. Fragrances there but now they have diane kendal who is again an og like dick page level. Makeup artists has done like all the runway shows for every important fashion fan. Yes you do. Alex wang like for a long time. She basically one of the makeup artists that really pioneered the grunge. Look in the nineties covent. Kline was a frequent collaborator dj. Actually designed calvin klein cosmetics remember that yeah sedan kindle but then also for the campaigns for the contents i have meisel marilyn minter meyer serenity. I believe mario the. Maybe i'm making that up all the big guys united so much money i think would also i found interesting. Is that the who are calling themselves clean and inclusive. That's their beauty positioning. Which is you. And i know our words that mean nothing. Want to show me that. Not tell me that at this point they have one hundred and thirty colors and the collection. But that's across all like lips is face nells. The price ranges. I would say inclusive eight to twenty six dollars and i actually like this line. And maybe i'm corny. Maybe off but there is no beauty on the bootees. The photos are as and another good. That's my shop small okay. I'm small exactly slow beauty. This is another piece of news out of business of fashion. Youtube is holding. Its first visual beauty festival. It will be free to tune into its on may fourteenth. And it's going to have celebrities like ferrall. And millie bobby brown and jessica alba as well as the most famous influencers on the platform. It sounds like it's going to be highly produced. I saw that they have the guy that invented the seventy three questions for vogue. He has one producing it. Impressive no it is completely impressive. I feel like what i like. And youtube is like the relea- diy feeling stuff. Like i'm in a room. I'm talking to a webcam versus highly produced lake award. Show vibe but i'm going to tune in to we live blogger when is it may fourteenth may fourteen to your table. No we can't even update instagram on a regular basis. We know i know. I know this was something that hit. Close to home A headline in women's wear daily. That said is building a head to toe fashion brand. This is something that honestly if they interviewed us we could've told them months ago. It sounds like they might be a listener. I think they probably are. We saw this coming from miles away. They did a collection with telfar. They're doing but else. The fluffy slides got shot in a major way in this call. Wizard nickname take issue with. Because it's the ultra-mini eggs that really changed the game for the brand and summer of twenty twenty the crazy thing about the website besides the fact that there is a dizzying amount of information. You could get lost for days on the website. But if you go to like the collaboration there slinging collaborations that you would never even know that they were doing one with someone named fang chen wang and it looks like they're kind of like tebas meat of which you can buy. There's a collaboration with someone named molly. Goddard you don't know about malaysia. Darter no he does those really voluminous tool net dresses that are roughly like pinafores style. Almost heritage uku looking. She's british. Celebs love her. Iran or one of addresses and then. Nobody could ever get enough after that. The actual they're gone. I was going to see if i could buy them because the fen chang wang one's really cool it's like an insight out back didn't you just buy some inside out. Ugh sandals yes. Yes i did so the fluffy as which are the like. How do you describe it. It's like a fluffy shower sandal with the mule. Sling back with a branded back. Yeah with branded sling back. They have so many colors. All the colors of the rainbow tied sweatpants. I'm just giving you a little sense of what they have right now. Mothers collection bathrobe. In a ed tau on my god. They have these. They're called the men's new most snap back and it's like a low top of with clip across sort of add little bit of like a sportswear element to the front makes it feel like masculine. There's some a lot of new things. Try to sort by new. Whenever you can on dot com the disco slide and tied. I is. It's like a closed toed unicorn bang fluffy a- and rainbow multi Discuss crazy. They have a photo for tie-dyed jacket which is green and purple and blue and it's one hundred and ninety eight dollars how the flesh sugar sandal is. Pretty intense to these people have lost. Their mind have found themselves. At the true there's one called the fluffy tail which is like the fluff. Yeah but instead of the sling back it has like another. Like a buckle over the top which is kinda cool is that a buckler is velcro. Long shaggy fair in velcro would mix but found a way we should have maybe just a segment. Where every once in a while. We check in on what they're offering right now. My favorite is there homeware section. Which is like. I didn't even know it's just like california neutral neutral colors cable. Knit throw pillows. I don't know okay and that's enough for today. Know what that's for today. Because you know what i got in the mail. Yesterday i got a little pair of baby sized from one any creek bomb so the three of us could match in our ultra-mini eggs thank you and other cozy comfy news. I got an email from better world House which is drake's candle company honestly. I forgot it's been. There's been a bit of lag time. It was like great who sold my email to accompany. I've never heard of before. Why am i getting spammed. And then i realized oh this is drake's candle line in they announced in this email that it is finally launching may night which is a sunday. On sunday that's so fulfillment centers open on sundays. So you're going to place an order out first thing monday morning but apparently that's not the move. I'm not the expert but you don't have launched on monday because the film and centers like pack everything up and ship it out. They need to be like warmed up from my new business. True let come in cold on a monday and not to learn how to like. Hack everything. I don't know if drink is worried about that. But creator of the ovidio empire out. I'm excited to smell them. Were not on the press list but we should try to. Finagle our way onto it so nick. You sent me this. Dm from the cut about goop end celebrity cruise lines picking back up. A collaboration and i thought it was the guana was hosting her own crews getaway like goop summit on a boat. She is no. That's what it is. I know i was to ship and goop cruise. It's happening again. They're curing programming and fitness kids to add. Oh they're curing cruise lines wellness experienced. So it's gonna to that. Maybe this isn't the most research i thought it was more like you get to go on a cruise gwyneth. Paltrow but really what you get to do is just maybe if you're on a cruise get like a gwyneth. Paltrow approved treatment right. It's like an add on experience for celebrity cruise clientele. I guess you can pay seven hundred and fifty bucks and you can get special programming and then like a fitness kit in your closet that you stand on a cruise. We'd have to pay me to go on a cruise. I don't trust a big boat after the titanic. I don't trust me. You can tell me that things have changed that they have better doppler. But for me once i don't make open water either. I'm right there with you. i don't trust it. It's more water on earth than people. You know what i mean. And that's a fact. We know more about space than we do about the ocean floor. Let me tell you that. I think we did it for the week. Anyone who has any comments about get at us diaz personally. We still would like to do a collaboration with hug. The offer is still stands. So if you're listening it those fluffy as a walk in to us. Okay so since everyone listening to this. Podcast is already like a beauty genius. We are not going to be the first ones to tell you about fungal acne. But i will say it's probably be newest beauty. Skin-care term to skyrocket into the mainstream discourse of skin issue in the past two years. And why is that. While it's in no small part to our guests. This week are first. Anonymous guest yes. I'm anonymous. He goes by f c. He is the founder of a website called simple skincare science. Which will talk about how he got into. Nbn but he now has his own line of products specifically for people that deal with fungal acne. Which again we'll get to this in the interview but apparently is not a real thing according to the man himself and he has his own line of products malaysia that he launched this year. Twenty twenty one completely bootstrapped by himself literally bought industrial machinery to make these things in a warehouse which sounds not legit. But i think you'll find as we did in talking to him that he's quite legit so yeah. This is our interview with f. c. v. clear. You're basically anonymous much and you always have been online. Yes oddly enough. I think if people look hard enough they can do so. I was actually happened a few times. Plenty enough but yeah things to other sixteen of gun anonymously as f c doesn't sixteen so that's when you pop the lid off of the fungal. Acne term retires now taken over any content involving skin care. Yeah i should probably purposes by saying a blog was launched in two hundred extinct. I actually didn't focus particularly on micro biology mouse micro-organism until as what is the what what what are you. What are you a scientist. Your sound very smart. But thank god is your passion within academia. This is actually fascinating question. So i actually don't have particular credentials around skin care. I was a biomedical engineer. Major for three years in college but for the sake of transparency actually changed majors Got a degree in something completely unrelated you understood. Like methodology of and could research paper. Yeah i took all the coursework in fact the only thing that was preventing me from getting my minor. Associate's degree in science was i didn't take. Pe course like literally that was. I wanted to get out of college. Sort of go mine waste so so. Yeah i do obviously studies that something i've been doing for the past five years religiously and also have the good fortune of working with brian. Scientists microbiologists keeton for for your brand. Yes simple as skin-care sciences the blog that was launched in two thousand sixteen. And what was the impetus of that. I had the terrible unfortunate or fortunate. However you decide to view because i wouldn't be here without it today but i had a lot of skin condition. I suffer with personally and to name some. Acne was probably the most severe also dealt with quote. Fungal or mouse Wanna use the actual medical term. Del barco matata or isis. Just a lot of things. I've just honest Pretty unfortunate would just conditions these run in your family just so honestly. My mom was blessed with the best genes ever never had acting in her life. I was like one gene away from having just awesome genetics. But my dad. yeah my dad had acne. He's actually also currently dealing with dermatitis to kind of has sort of man's attitude so he doesn't really want to do any skin care fix it. You had no help at home and addressing really. Yeah no so what happened. Simple snicker science y got started with just. I told myself when. I was dealing with a lot of these conditions. That if i were fortunate enough to figure out how the hell to control that oded to other people who may be in similar situations and so i did the terrible thing taking pictures you know my skin in like it's worst condition just like could have evidence because it's one thing now is me was beauty bloggers on had the worst ever been. I don't know they're still looks fine. Have nobody wanted to make sure you had really good before pictures. So that if the after it was really good people super. I haven't stopped like happy scarring and same with our microbiologist fun fact. She was on accutane five times before she was ever kind of figure out the molecular mechanisms behind the causation of Addressing with skincare. It really really cool stuff. But that's why simple. Skincare science started. It was like when. I finally figured out how to clear my schedule is like okay. I owe it to people. Let me go out there and write a blog and hopefully able find it useful and so your first post was about your journey. Was that post number one. Yeah it was the about page really just sharing my story sharing photos just a lot of documentation kind of letting people know who i am. And that's when. I was like oh as shy introverted. I didn't always in this weird peculiar position where i didn't wanna share my name Just call me f c. That's my initials odyssey. Didn't think much about it and in this first post did you also reveal. The solution obviously documented the problem. But how much of the solution did you give away on post. One not much. What i started. Actually focusing specifically on kind of evidence based ingredient breakdowns for example the first articles ever wrote about society. Gasset time google search. There's one article may be about it until i was like. Wow there's actually a lot of data including tons of vivo date particularly aren't humans show. this is fantastic. Agree for acne. Even those fda approved as rotation treatment right. So i wrote kind of all the reasons people should try Broke down the science. It's so funny because at this point as lake acid is like the trendy new acids has two solutions cody rigsby from peleton. Talked to a few weeks ago was like as lake acid. Change my skin really before your time pressure if you like our crtv dot org and he put in like simple sneaker science the guys article will be there probably as early as two thousand sixteen. Yeah how did you start to get an audience was it. Seo people just searching for fungal did they know what they were searching for until you kind of describe it as that. What's funny is when i wrote the fungal apnea article like if you actually look at the keyword data to see how much monthly searches at got. It was zero. It wasn't even turn people used. It was just organically. Like i never looked for a particular keyword. It was always kind of like well. Let's talk about the things that helped me. Why help me. I'll just get all compilers much science account this particular topic and publish it. And then i'll just try and find the keywords saying that are most relevant and traffic did grow vary across the end. I think i've shared only two or three times on ready. Which kind of gave me some initial traffic to the blog and so crazy. 'cause we both came from digital editorial nicholas on the traditional print side before that and just the idea of growing an audience that seems as large and engages when that you have just grow that with our any sort of paid help behind it paid marketing behind it like a huge social boost. You don't have any sort of celeb- interviews. It's just crazy to think that like you were able to really engage people. It's the same people coming back every week to read new post like new people coming into each article for different reasons. Or what are you finding. Well i it was just a mix of things to be completely transparent like i did not think that i was going to become the quote unquote fungal acne blogger. I really was nobody does nobody ever does. Yes it just honestly. It was my personal experience and also reading a lot of literature research. That kind of led me to that conclusion. And i just so happen to think that micro-biology did best help me out and it turns out that's also says situation for a lot of people. What is fungal acne like. Now it's this thing that everyone talks about What is it and what causes it. And what cures it. Sorry that was a lot of questions at once but wasn't seen fungal acne and your run of the mill acne. Nothing like this is actually. This is actually something that we hope to try and dispel as a brand. What most people don't understand this at all quote unquote regular acne has a fungal component in all quote unquote fungal. Acne also has a bacteria component. Sometimes there will be a predisposition of one microorganism proliferating versus another like for example. Cudi bacterium is what most people associate as acne causing bacteria. It turns out that could bacterium actually compete for limited resources. In the flicker contents of acne against mouse easy other adversaries in malaysia. Is the fungal exactly anytime. You have a microbiologist. Very bands methodology to examine the philippine or contents of acne. What they find is that one hundred percent of the time malasyia is present in the acne. Not only as a presence but the size of inflammation or the how big the pimple is directly correlates with the acne acne. It depends who you ask. Nowadays our opinion were simply acknowledging the fact that acne does have a fungal component that means that a fungus on your skin causes irritation and inflammation people will candidate this but in our opinion yes we think that mousy is actually one of the strongest organism of the main three usually found in acne lesions. Which by the way case anyone's wondering that's cudi bacterium staphylococcus and malaysia. Is that work cooties. Come from yeah for sure. So yeah in. Our opinion mouse season is actually the one that induces the strongest comey dome formation and the komi dome formation is the lesion. It's exactly like if our micro biologist on here she would tell you like okay it all starts with kinda the -til are two response is essentially these proteins found on sales kind of you know they initiate an immune response and then you get like twelve different steps in eventually you'll get inflammation of pimple but the long story short. Is that every single way. In which people see the melker evidence pointing to bacterium the inflammatory casket malices does identically. At a faster rate the way that it initiates an immune response in some ways is a hundred times greater than cudi bacteria and so are those three things always on the surface of human skin and they just become out of whack and not tell like acne happens or they introduced in other ways so yeah. All three of these are also commenced organisms so essentially. Everybody has so just for some individuals become opportunistic or pathogenic than like if you have a disruption in your skin barrier or something like that happened that than yet. that'll allow the cudi bacterium to infiltrate. Yeah that's one way. It's really a multi. Faceted issue can be from any number of reasons but what tends to happen is eventually someone will get a virulent of the micro organism that is pathogenic and so that kind of is what distinguishes. Why some people have acne another stump people like myself. Do you have acne. We essentially have overactive microorganisms. They get a little too excited like anxious. Or something you know. And then give us issues whereas other people through my quarries more chill now that you've identified. The fungus is a main component. Whether it's the biggest or it's next to the bacterium how do you treat fungus beyond the. I guess we've all seen at this point. The dandruff shampoo a trick for your body. Acne or said your face recommend that but okay okay so that was going to be. My question is how do you go about treating fungus then on your skin so our philosophy is you. Take into consideration all three microorganisms. And you kind of measure sort of their metabolic activity nutritional requirements and you formulate around that so as to essentially in this case kill three birds or microorganisms with one stone. I thought if we disturb the balance of nature were causing further harm to like our selves. So do we really want to kill all these things. We just want to like. Find a way to live in peace with them again. It will depend on. What variation of microorganisms. You have on your face some people yeah could bacterium cancer of some purposes mouths but others you want. It's like neck when the there's an overgrowth. I went where there's too many of them and they had they released predator. And so that's what it is that for some people they just get. Basically an overgrowth depends so when you look at the micro organisms you have different strains right among them. Family like analysis for examples lip microorganisms with fourteen different species Some people have for example more restrictive versus m guebuza ember stricter is actually negatively. Correlates ellison some studies with acne. So if you have that variation of the strain within species it's less problematic than if you have mouse Bosa which is that's the one that correlates more with acne so honestly pretty exciting but also complicated because each sometimes strains among species will have different nutritional requirements when you talk about nutritional requirements. You're saying like feeding the fungus. Yeah exactly or you cut off the food supply. And that's how you kill the fungus so even if you cut the spy could still use your sebnem. You have fatty acids all kinds of stuff. That mike orson can utilize in your Oils right whales but in our opinion that you don't want to add additional food sources. So what would those be like moisturizer based on oil gas so this was the entire premise of melesio. Our skincare brand. Because this means if you're going to avoid these grants or not devoid oils fatty acids with carbon channels between twelve and twenty. Four fatty alcohols. Polysorbates does say esters. I mean basically. This is found in ninety five percent of skin care products. Oh my god okay. Now i get it so what you're saying is basically like what you guys discovered essentially or at least like uncovered we can say. Is that if you're struggle with a certain type of acne ninety five ninety eight percents of skin care that sold is going to actually feed the microorganisms that caused the acne rather than stop them. Yeah and people will say arguably caused the act based on the molecular evidence. We do think or hope that scientists pushed forward and eventually we do have like say the holy grail double blinded placebo controlled trial examined different vehicles on acne outcomes etcetera. But in the meantime we do have mostly anecdote from thousands of people who say gravitate towards our blog in brand and also just the molecular evidence. So you had essentially a cult blog and then you said okay. Now i'm ready to formulate something that avoids th ingredients that arguably 'cause or correlate with whatever this is really exposing the fact that i did not take a biology class in college so you decided to launch your own brand as a way to sort of provide products to the people who need them. I assume because it sounds like you're not in it for like a cash. Grab just about to say that was not exactly correct. I didn't want to start a skincare brand. What ended up happening was when i first released article told everybody like. Hey these are the ingredients. You have to avoid blah blah blah kind of explained the concept everybody was. Can you give us product recommendations. At the time. I could find maybe like twenty. It was so limiting. Was like this is really. There's nothing really here and happening over. The years is the simple sneaker science community crowd the total of like a thousand five hundred products that all met this criteria that's still published on the blog and stuff but i was very curious to do basically like an n. Equals one study on myself and formulate some products that they had the problematic ingredients and others. That did it test on my face to see if this lead to any problems cutting sacrifice for this. Yes what happened is i are moisturizer. Was that's how it came to fruition. And i initially i was just like hey guys check us out gradients. I literally told somebody how to make it in the comments. You're like one of those coders who is into like open source hundred like more about like this should be free. The anonymous of skin carrier like hacking into agar. The julian assange curse. No you're not. But how big is your community like. You have this call community. I think you're sort of downplaying the fact that you have a huge audience for this blog like you have more comments on some of your articles like any article that we all curry. I guarantee you guys are way way bigger than i like. You know what it is. It's just the appearance with because i published articles like very infrequently so they're up for a long time and then people like evergreen content where people always can go back. It's relevant and they get another thing earlier. It's like you kind of don't do the things that apparently assisted grown audience publishing quite frequently is one of the ways you told to keep your audience engaged until they grow it. I mean in terms of figures at its high simple sneaker signs was like getting around four hundred thousand monthly visitors which honestly is not. I mean i don't know. Maryland has different metrics but only their people. That's like peanuts in comparison to modest but not given the fact that you've done this completely organically and our hyper engaged. Doing i was reading on your website. Malaysia dot com the faq. And you have a disarmingly honest and transparent but without the marketing spin of transparent way of communicating. I found it really refreshing. That like you would sort of say okay. Consumers are asking. Here's a good question is my tube under fill the potential question that a consumer might ask and you say of course not. We calibrate pneumatic piston machines to dispense fifty grams. They have an accuracy of one to two percent and we periodically. Check them throughout the days. We fail to ensure they're working properly. And here's some photos of the tests that we've been running on these scales. That's a level of transparency. One that most brands don't try to even meet but number two. It's a unique way of letting people feel like they have a stake in your business right. They feel like you're validating their purchase by that thought that you put into these answers. Thanks in. I just be honest. It's not a but that is not the mantra of the beauty industry. I don't know why. I think that's unfortunate. What have been the biggest struggles with having your own brand. Oh man honestly one thing that's done is given me like i have so much respect for people to decide to start brands now because it's frigging hard like at the moment. We launched despite the fact for like a year. Everybody was super encouraging positive. Ice where the Relaunch as like criticism instantly almost like. Oh my god. What's going on and it was. I think it's as soon as you become a company. I guess people forget that there's like human beings running that they feel like it's a corporation exactly psych unethical cooperation. You're like what the biggest trouble so far has been expanding with bootstrapping right now. So you did something very different to in the fact that you bought industrial machinery to actually produce. The bulk yourself in philly right. Oh yeah that was. Basically the last year my life just building out. Skincare lab with all the necessary equipment and bootstrapping it too. So why don't you just go to like a lab and say here. Here's what i wanna make in his. But i need from you and have them do it. A great question like i've reached out to twelve laps. All of them were like how dare you tell you can't use that. They weren't that mean about it but essentially it was like going to a contract manufacturer and telling them. Hey you can use esters candid oils. You can use fatty alcohols. You can't blah blah blah. It's ninety five percent of the stuff they use and they're gonna look at the small fry me and be like. Why should i completely change my manufacturing practices in stock formulas to help you. So when i was reaching out every time i was met with your guidelines are too stringent can change the also fire in the product can we this and that blah and why ended up deciding to do manufacturing on our own is because microbiologists actually reached out to me with the best business pitch ever and so i was like. Oh i after work with this lady. What was the best business pitch if you ever want to be hired. So this what you gotta do. She was like hello. My name's kate. I'm a microbiologist. Has direct experience growing mouse yet. Biosafety level two very keen skills with reality modifiers. You're the only type of most fires Can't utilize and additionally unlike to correct some of the information on your blog because it's an accurate considered you have not include the most recent doppler studies. I was like who is this. So i always like dude. Let's can i call you. She was like yeah then. We spoke for two hours of ended up working with each other ever said so so if i have acne and i'm looking for a solution that is not accutane. It's not something super systemically intense. And i use your moisturizer in your jill. Is it gonna cure my acne. We hope so. There's always going to be like wow diversity among people but we have like actually super stoked about this. We actually already have since the month. We launched were actually sold out a voice riser this morning. When did this actually lunch. march fifteen. Oh so this is all really new. York among gives street crazy like yes sold out. But it's like the most stressful thing right now. One of the commenters on your acne treatment gel wrote five stars. I trust fc with my life. That's it that's the review so like you. I feel like are a little bit of an. Don't mean this at all in a condescending way but a diamond in the rough in that this brand should be the best selling brandit sephora right now in europe dealing with urea suppliers yourself. How do you see yourself taking the brand to the next level in terms of scale. That's yet to be determined. That's honestly a big struggle. Wearing is like really difficult. Position where because we have very particular ways of formulating. It's difficult to find a contract manufacturer to do this for us so right now we are going to do. Our best to reinvest everything into sort of getting the equipment necessary. And hopefully you know scale okay so because you run into some of your struggles and how to dig deep to find why somebody skin care. Products weren't working for you. Where kind of your top tips for our readers who are also struggling with acne. And i've tried everything and can't figure out why things aren't working. I mean i don't wanna sound biased but go to malaysia dot com top tips. I would say it really is the principles of what the brand is based off. But i would say if possible first of all. Just learn as much as you can. You should be your own best advocate knowledge is just the reason i'm even here in the first place but you should absolutely read. Come to your own conclusions. I feel like if you were to do that. And you are acting on individual. You'll find what ingredients to avoid which is really quickly again. The fatty acids fatty alcohols esters polysorbates than most oils. And then you want to find products that meet this criteria but additionally if possible use acne treatment that will inhibit the major three microorganisms involved in acting which staff mousy zia and quarterback here. Bento peroxide is for example. A great one because it hits all three so if i have but i feel like is a pimple under the surface but i don't necessarily have what i would not be fungal acne or like i don't have particularly acne skin but we all get breakouts once in a while. Can i use the treatment jail as a spot treatment at night and wake up and it looks better can be used in that way like as a casual user. Oh absolutely yeah. It will depend on the severity right but you can absolutely spot treatment. If you are a person who continually deals with breakouts best to use it as an all over but yeah. That's not the stopping from just using sputtering. And how are you selling this for eleven dollars and fifty cents. Honestly i. I'm making that much money off the bp but actually love what did. I actually looked up to branch rex recipes when he was alive. I really did love what he was doing with transparency around pricing and i was inspired by that in like i think one day maybe not making any promises but if we could actually replicate some of the pricing deaths him did. Oh that'd be incredible right now. Were limited three person team. We can't do that. i think i pretty good job. That people wanna follow the blog. It's obviously simple. Skin-care science dot com and your brand is malaysia m. a. l. e. z. I a. dot com. you can. it looks like i'm on the site right now. You can still buy them. Oh no it. Sold out can be emailed when the moisturizer is back in stock. And you can get the gel. And i feel like you are your own best marketer. Because i'm now sold that you know exactly what you're doing. Well thank you so much. A honored so products of the week. The time is now. And i've been dying to you my product of the week because as you know any i love like a treat a snack and especially if it can be like a healthier version of a thing that i like i am in. There's a new candy bar on the block. it's called gigantic. Have you heard of it. And then that tells you about this. I don't think you told me they're amazing. They're four dollars and twenty cent candy bar. And i was actually just comparing the ingredients from a gigantic candy bar which comes in fancy hipster flavors like almond torch outta and like hazelnut surprise or whatever but their whole idea is the fat part of the candy bar. Nutrition is fine. But it's really the sugar that's problematic. So they have found a way with sugar substitutes that are not splendor and equal whatever to create a low sugar lower sugar candy bar so you know whereas a snickers bar has approximately twenty five grams. Sugars twenty three of those grams are added sugars. The gigantic bar has seven grams of sugars. Six grams of added sugars however like from calorie perspective. They're both about the same. You know hazelnut cafe gigantic bar to a snickers bar two hundred calories versus twenty in the snickers bar fat is about the same saturated fat is about the same. I guess it's it's good for someone who's really trying to watch their sugar but the funny thing about this is i feel like this reminds me of when i was a kid and there was this brand healthy choice which made like frozen pizzas and like these devils food cake. Cookies and their whole thing was being fat free. But in order to be fat free they were full of sugar because as long as on the label it said zero percent of your daily fat intake consumers would buy it and so now obviously we've changed to being like super high fat. This has fourteen grams of fat in the protein bar and but really low sugar which is probably the healthier place to be but it's still a candy bar. And how does it taste fucking delicious. Flavors did you try. Gigantic bars are really good. I tried the hazelnut cafe. I tried almond or chata. They're like crispy crunchy there her. If you're not going to miss any of the sweetness the one that told me about quest bars quest bars or like yesterday's news but yeah quest phase so quest bars are a protein bar. Soap goal is very different. Approach bar is trying just to be a protein bars like twenty grams of protein in a bar but a gigantic bar is trying to be a candy bar. They're not trying to to have like protein in it. Look what i found. This is a dm from march thirtieth of me sending neck this ad for gigantic candy bars. Are we got a regular. Bob woodward on our hands here. She's found me out. Rip the lid off of this story. Anyway you can buy them on. Gigantic candy dot com. You can buy variety pack for seven ninety nine for eight candy bars. There's a banana flavor. Which i'm not into so i would just do his. Cafes delicious kind of new televise and then the almond or chata candy bar is more like a traditional snickers kind of delicious. Thank you nick. Welcome this week. I tried dr barbara sturm. Never tried it really. Yeah me neither. And i got it just one product. I tried her face mask simply put just face mask is what it's called. It is is a really gentle. The texture is very like water he would say for a clay mask which this is it's facing is water and then colin clay glycerin almond oil. There are some other ingredients and here that are kind of interesting. But they're so on the list. It's on a long ingredient list. I think really. It's mostly water on sand. Kaelin clay in glycerine. But i have to say. I really liked it. It was refreshing. I love green french. Clay mask which is kaelin clay. Am i saying that right. Nick calvin anyway used it. You put it on for ten minutes. Ten to fifteen minutes comes at the brush. I'm sure it was very expensive. I mean check the price. Oh god okay. So it's a hundred and twenty dollars for almost one point seven ounces which is not cheap. I will say if you're looking for a heist friendly alternative. What it kind of reminded me of was if you were to take the to glossiest face masks. Which are the moisturizing mask and the mega greens galaxy pack. And if you were to mix them together in put them in their refrigerator. It's probably what this would feel like there. You go look for less. i like that. Yeah you can't tell. My skin is outrageous. Right now. Because i am not sleeping i am very stressed but you know what i've decided you know what my therapist told me into. Remember if we talked about on the podcast. One of the biggest problems for insomniacs. Is they get stressed about. Not being able to sleep so i have just given it. I've just given it to god. I've just said i can't sleep. That's my life now. And i'm not going to stress over it anymore right. I feel like readers would also have a good solution for that. Have you tried melatonin. I'm just getting these. Give me solutions. Trust me i've tried. It got lesions. I've given a taking deep breaths or just put your phone in a different room all screens like an hour before. Yeah it's about sleep hygiene any without little advice. I think it's time to call it. Eyewitness beauty is produced by the ever. Lovely gentleman molly of sea. Plane armada are album art cover. Art was created by simon abramowicz and our theme music and every bit of music that we play is by danny present. You can follow us on. Instagram eyewitness beauty or you can email us at high. A witness beauty dot com or on twitter. Which always forget to say. But i witnessed. Beauty was too long so we had to be the letter. I witnessed beauty tweet us. We'll be back next week with what i'm sure will be a wonderful episode so some rest.