Binging with Babish: Andrew Rea Cooks Game of Thrones. Dothraki Blood Pie, Anyone?


Buying olive oil supermarket is shot in the dark. You don't know. How long do else been sitting there? You don't know was bottled you can't be absolutely sure that it's hundred percent olive oil. And you don't even know where the odds were actually grown and here. Unlike in Europe inspectors or not pulling bottles off shelves to determine if an extra virgin oil is actually extra-virgin. So it's hard to know what you're getting many folks say that the best European oils for sold in Europe. The lesser quality oils are often shipped to the United States and like coffee there hundreds of brands of olive oil. So it's hard to know what to buy and whether price and quality are always related is a twenty dollar bottle out much better than an eight dollar bottle. So one answer to this problem is to have access to articifial Voyles shipped directly from gold medal winning small farms right to your door at harvest time. When the oil's flavour and nutrients are at their peak, and that's the idea behind the fresh pressed olive oil club is the brainchild of TJ Robinson the olive oil. Hunter Robinson is solve the problem of year round fresh pressed oils, Italy presses olives during the. Fall. Spain harvest and January February Australia Chile and New Zealand during our spring and summer, by the way, these undiscovered olive growers really make great oils. So we tasted them here. Milk street. We found that the Arbat Qena was peppery grassy with a nice mellow finish think a Galvez was fruity full flavored in buttery. The Senate touchy is light with a nice pepper finish. Nobody wants to drink only one type of line. So why not over the course of year taste, lots of different olive oils as a special introduction to his club TJ's willing to send her listers or retail size. Thirty nine dollar bottle of one of the world's finest artisanal olive oils, fresh from the new harvest for just a dollar to help him cover shipping. Best of all with TJ's club. There's never a commitment to buy anything now or ever, and you can cancel your membership at any time. Try about offers two dollar and taste. The difference yourself go to get fresh one seven seven dot com. One more time go to get fresh one seven seven dot com and try a bottle for just one dollar. That's get fresh one seven seven dot com. Hi, this is Christopher Kimball. Thanks for downloading this week's podcast. You can go to our website milk street radio dot com for each week's recipe or wine recommendations and also updates about our cooking school in live events at milk street. I hope that you enjoy this week's show. This is most radio here. Axum host Christopher Kimball. Anita loos new book feast takes global look at his Lama cooking culture history and delivers recipes that you wanna make an home as well from simple, flat breads and cough. The Kibaye lentil soup parsley salads and rice puddings. Once was told by taxi driver in Syria. The reason why people like to come the cabinets the monogamous animal and its virtues to eat it. I personally don't really believe in that theory. But it's kind of it's fun theory. Before we get to the foods of the Islamic world a chat, we filmmaker. Andrew Ray in his YouTube show pinging with Babbit SRI demonstrates how to make dishes for movies and TV shows, including goodfellas big night and Seinfeld in one video recreates rocky blunt pie from HBO's game of thrones. I he saw tastes import fat and spinach onion, then for the blood. He uses real pig blood and teaches viewers how to cook with. Ngo REO pretty good. How're you doing? Chris good. It's here's my question. You get three million YouTube channel followers, probably two point nine nine more million than I have. And I just watched I watched a whole bunch of your your videos, you know, game of thrones, you have wild boar meat pigeon rabbit. This is a very complicated recipe, you know, far more complicated. I think anything I've ever made and you have three million subscribers and the usual rule of thumb is the more, entertaining and lighter and less content. Heavy the food video the more people watch it in your case, it seems to be the reverse. So I I find that fascinating. So how does that work? Well, I'm very lucky to have an audience. As has been sort of very loyal, and stuck with me as my channels grown. And I've just tried to be as uncompromising as possible about just the way that I present the content. There is a pop culture element like game of thrones, huge title, and and happily garnered a large audience, but once I get them in there. I want to sit him down show him some proper technique. So. That that was probably one of the very few recipes that I didn't steal directly from you. Chris. Well, at least at least you're kind enough. I noticed till I give at you bution, which is nice, but I've never done death. Rocky blood pie. So. Yeah. You've gone places. I'll never go. There's this great quote from me. I don't know where I found it says patrons at the wizard ING world of Harry Potter in. Orlando reportedly cried upon taking their first sip of butter beer. You hooked yourself to the wagon of movies, and so food and movies. Obviously you understand there's a deep connection and people react to that. How did you first get onto that notion, and how deep do you think it is? I think it's very deep. Food for movies and television is one of the palpable. Tangible ways that you can sort of experience your favorite movie or TV show firsthand that you can experience what your favorite characters are experiencing, and it all started from an episode of parks and rec where they had Berkoff. I'm not sure if you're familiar with that upset where Ron Chris have a burger cook off Turkey burger can beat a beeper. And did it. Honestly, no. Chris Berger took probably like six hours to make think. Taleggio cheese Crispin. There was a pious shut me. And there was a black truffle AO Lee and Turkey burgers ground by hand. And it was delicious. But then you take one bite of beefburger. And there's no in dress it up all you like there's no comparison. So some of these things are obvious when Harry met Sally, you do homemade pastrami gelato for Roman holiday that makes sense. But some of these I just like to just have you explain inglorious bastards movie. I did like very much you pick up strudel. What scene was that in? Remember that? Well, it was a very menacing seen with them. Name is Hans Launda Christoph waltz is character. And he's he's toying with this girl. He knows is a refugee in France and. He orders the strudel. And it's it's just the most murderous terrifying. Little brunch that you could ever imagine at the same time. You wanna try this rule? It's despite it being such a scary scenes by putting a cigarette out in the end. I got lots and lots of requests for it. And it's a very interesting process by which you make this journal. So so the secret here if I may is you start with fiction, and you take something out of fiction and make a real you bring it to life. So people can actually experience it secondhand. But you can experience something you disown the big screen now you can see the little scream. Yeah. It's one of those rare ways in which rebel to actually manifest something from our favorite section. Let's assume Julia child were was still with us and doing her show and doing it pretty much the way she always did it, do you think? Julia would still resonate for forgetting about the nature of the recipes whether their French what? But you think are persona and her her presentation to something that would still ring a bell of people or not. Absolutely. The those are the biggest and most important factors in making show people need to like you feel how passionate you are about something. Say the same thing to new YouTubers, which is find something that you love so much the have to yell at other people about it. Like, this just drives you crazy and share it with the world. And that's exactly what. Julia tissue loved cooking. And I think I mean, nostalgia factor aside, even if she was brand new face on the scene, and no one had ever heard of before with her voice and her demeanor and her presence. I think this she would crush, absolutely. Yeah. I think I think you hit the nail on the head. I think her enthusiasm for the topic was limitless. And therefore it was infectious. And so even if you had interested in cooking, you just had to go along for the ride with her because she was all in and she she brought you in with her. I think absolutely so into thank you so much and best of luck. Thank you. That was Andrew Ray his YouTube channel bingeing with Babich and his new book is entitled eat what you watch a cookbook for movie lovers. Radio also veils podcast. You can subscribe enlisted whenever you want new shows up every Friday on apple podcast, Google play tunes deter and Spotify. It's time to take a few of your calls. My co-host Seromba Alta Sarah's, of course, the author of home cooking one one also the star of Sara's weeknight meals on public television. Sarah. How are you? I'm good Chris. And I'm excited to take some calls. You're always excited to take. Also, welcome to milk street. Who's calling this is Patricia? Hi, patricia. Where are you calling from can Washington? Nice. How can we help you today? Most of the Turkey that I find in my supermarket are enhanced with some sort of solution of Turkey, raw and failing flavor enhancers. And I know that this Trump stuff the bird, and it helps to keep it from drying out. But my question to you is if I wanted to Brian Mitra key as they show on a lot of cooking programs. Well, the additional soaking caused me to have a weird texture. Yeah. You can't brine and enhanced bird. It's already been essentially, it's already been Briand. It's all about and the key point is sailing got salt and that when. In you roast Turkey that's been brined or injected. It helps the meat hold onto liquid as it cooks. So this less liquid loss. And so if you Brian and enhanced Turkey, it'll be a disaster. What I would do. Instead is get a fresh Turkey that has had no, you know, enhancement. No, nothing added to it and Bryant yourself. Well, I'm gonna change my mind about burning. I've been your favorite brining for very long time. It's a great way to cook a Turkey. I'm now getting to the point where I'm just not going to worry about it. So I'm going to cook a Turkey like three hundred degrees and cook it long and slow. You know, what it's going to be fine. And then I make gravy and then a little dry. I'm not gonna worry that funny. How you just don't care anymore. I mean, or you can buy kosher Turkey you can find which is already. Kosher Turkey's already been told salted. The only problem with Brian. Is you get a very moist? I think overly moist texters little wet, well, which I that's why I like that quote, unquote, dry brining where you just put the salt on it. And I use ready. One of my tricks. I use a grapefruit spoon turned upside down to get under the skin between the skin and the meat because you don't wanna tear the skin, and then you get in there. And then you put kosher salt on it and you born with a grapefruit spoon in your. No just wanted to grapefruit spoon. No. But I use it for all sorts of things. Not what it's supposed to be. It's a good idea. Yeah. I mean, Brian is great. But who's got root for twenty pound bird in the refrigerator the day before thanksgiving? Now at me, nobody I think just low temperature long slow or by enhance bird, don't buy an enhanced Burkey effort. So. Okay. So that's how we feel about enhanced turkeys. Thanks for calling for okay. Welcome to milk street. Who's calling? This is Lucy calling from Everley Massachusetts. Oh, hi, Lucy. How can we help you today? I have a question about cornstarch. So I like to make some simple one pot stir fries and the rest of the often. Call McInnis Mary out of. And teriyaki sauce, and spices and cornstarch pictures always show this gorgeous, they clean glossy sauce. And then I make the turns out that the houses lottery and cloudy, and it doesn't cling at the bottom of the pan. Can you? Well, first of all when people take pictures for cookbooks magazines. They may. They are ranging the mushroom. What it looks like in the picture? We don't use fake stuff when we do it. But other people do sometimes well court starches a little tricky, you know, flower contain starch but also contains protein, so it's a more stable thickener. But it takes more time and effort and start more of a flavor in cornstarch quickey way of getting thickening. But it does have to come up to at least one hundred ninety five something getting it hot enough when you're whisking it in. Mixture on this topic bubbling, but it never goes anywhere after that. So I'm not sure if I'm getting it hot enough is the answer. Well, here's another thing. So when you mix the cornstarch with all these other things, you said soya sauce and whatever else, and and so that's already until the last moment, you added at the last moment, usually, correct? Okay. So do you remix it before you put it in? I give it a whisk. And then I dump it in the pot right because it clumps it will dissolve and then it will clump out in that soya sauce mixture. And then you have to whisk it. Well, again, so it's completely dissolved again. And then you throw it it and you bring it up to a very high heat. I mean, you can't should really boil it boy Ling is to twelve and it should be fine. All use. This are using a Skillet or a walk. This is a stir fry right? Stir fry meeting Skillet. Here's another thought, do you stir it and stir it and stir it and stir it, I don't usually I'm running around trying to get kids eating, and and so I'm not actually stirring while it's boiling away. And how long do you boil it not very long, well, actually doing everything right doing everything right cornstarch if you over store it can break. Yeah. And if you overcook if you can break, meaning it gets watery again, I think maybe you're cookie too long. My guess is when you put that in with stir fry at the end, it's fifteen seconds. And then you're done. It sounds like you're letting it sit in there for two or three minutes. Maybe. Yep. I am problem. And then if you come back and stir it doing a double whammy also the general rule is for every Cup of liquid. You wanna tablespoon of cornstarch? I'm assuming you're following recipe. I am yes. Yeah. I think the promise kids and stir fries. Yeah. I mean, I have the same problem. They just don't go very because you can't be doing something when you're so focused on that. And within fifteen or twenty seconds get in stand by the stove when you do that ad that the last thing because that is generally what's the last? Yes. I would definitely pay attention because it sounds like it's just over cooking. Yeah. Raking? Yeah. Okay. Okay. Well, thank you so much for your. Thank you. Have a good one. But I this is most radio. I'm Christopher Kimball if you have a culinary question. Give us a ring any time at eight five five four to six ninety four three that's eight five five four to six nine eight four three or Email questions. Administrate radio dot com. Welcome to mill street is calling. I'm Ralph I'm from western North Carolina. How can we help you? I recently made the stove top chocolate cake from the milk street literature. It wasn't huge hit not only because of the deep chocolate flavor. And I went ahead and spent the big bucks in Dutch process cocoa, but because of the nominal texture take like get moist not wet because it was such a success. I wanted to try other flavors just as a joke almost I try to supermarket box cake mix prepared according to package direction. If you remember the state puff marshmallow man from Ghostbusters. That's about what I got. Frost and truly has the texture of a big marshmallow. Forget that. How can I re purpose that Doda produce over flavors like maybe a run cake with dried, fruits and nuts or lemon cake with lemons extract, can I remove chocolate? Try the flavors. If you take the cocoa powder out. You'll have to replace it with flour to get the right texture. So I don't remember how much cocoa powder in the cake. I've made it a few times too. We should just say for listeners. It's a cake. That's essentially steamed you put into big Dutch oven on Iraq and cover it in sensually. It's steam chocolate cake. So and it has a very smooth Cetinje kind of texture which is great. I would replace cocoa powder with flour. And then I think you'd be okay. Yeah. And then just add the other flavorings. I'd love to see a lemon version. See put in lemon zest, and maybe what liquid is in it. Well, it's sour cream and eggs, and I might put some lemon extract along with. I don't know about lettuce just made that upset chipmunk face. No about lemon extract. It's kinda messy. I'd go more with grated lemon zest, and maybe a little bit of lemon juice with lemon juice replace liquid could it because you're not going to have enough of it? So couple of tablespoons would be okay tablespoon before is that's going to give you the flavor anyway, just replace the cocoa powder. Flour? I think it'd be okay. Oh, and let us know how it goes. And what Barry ations you come up with a fabulous texture. I just loved the cake. It's it was a huge hits. Well, it's also you don't have to turn the oven on. So it's kind of cool. Yeah. Right. Ralph give that a shot. Thank you. Thank you so much. You're listening to military radio. I'm Christopher Kimball up next my interview with an ISA Lou author feast food of the Islamic world that's coming up right after this break. Hero milk street. We love substituting nut flowers for some of the weed flower called for a recipe. Bob's red mill hazelnut flowers, a great choice to add great texture. Also, rich buttery flavor we like to use it in pastries pie crust cakes cookies and even pancakes, you can also use it in place of breadcrumbs meatballs Rivas a coating for chicken and fish to learn more about the hazelnut. Flour and recipes, please go to Bob's red mill dot com. Free range organic grass-fed. If that's what you want from the meat usurp your family. Let me make a suggestion butcher box. They deliver healthy hundred percent grass-fed in finish beef free range, organic chicken and heritage breed pork directly to your door on a monthly basis. No antibiotics and no hormones now. I just tasted their sausage the fillet. And also the bacon. It has the great texture of grain-fed. But with a delicious flavour of grass-fed, the also make available my favorite hard to find cuts, including skirt and flat iron steaks, by the way, the offer free shipping anywhere in the forty eight states, and you can cancel easily at any time. Here's what you need to know from now until December. I do subscribers will receive free bacon for life. Plus twenty dollars off by going to butcher box dot com slash milk street. Anyone who signs it before December first we'll get twenty dollars off their first box plus a free package of high quality bacon in every butcher box. They order for the lifetime. Of their subscription. Go to butcher box dot com slash M. I L K S T R E T. This is most radio. I'm Christopher Kimball and ISA who first exposed me to a new world of cooking with her nineteen ninety eight book Mediterranean street food in her latest book feast halloo guides readers through recipes and stories from all over these law MC world recipes that share common heritage. But that are actually quite different region to region even village to village. Nisa? How are you? I'm very well. Thank you, Chris. How are you? I'm good. You were born nineteen fifty two in Beirut and lived there for twenty one years. They rude everyone talks about us sort of the garden of the Middle East. Could you tell us a little bit about what it was like to grow up there? Well, it was quite wonderful because first of all Beirut is by the sea. And it's very easy city. Very dull Trivida, everything is very like close by. We lived very near the sea and very near the, you know, bun streets of Beirut where all the cinemas where the cafes everything. But as a kid, it was there was a very nice quality to it from the food point of view. Because my mother was a great cook. But everything came to us like there were cards with food vegetables, fruit, whatever, and my mother would hang out the window and the vendor, you know, what was in. In season. What was in good quantity? Whatever the he would way and bring it up to us. And then she would pay him the fishmongers would come to us with very fresh fish the mill guy, you know, it would come with his milk pails this special fruit, like Mulberries figs, everything came to the door. And it was just such a kind of lovely way of life in a capital city, but very laid back. So your new book feast food of the Islamic world, we start with a very short concise sort of history of Islam from Medina to Damascus. I mean, just just very quickly give us a history lesson. Well, as was born is it where in mecca in the seventh century, and when the prophet Muhammad had his first regulations, and it was very difficult for him at the beginning to convert people, in fact, his tribe where very anti him. So. He had to flee to another city, but soon after his death. They I mean he expanded. And he he he got more followers. And actually, I think by the time he died his drive. He had reconciled with his drive. I can't read room after he died his vest. She do his his followers thought it setting up one the full. Dennis teason. The first one was in Damascus the bad and the second one with its seat in Baghdad and from then on they like expanded their empires for east to west quite considerably and established serious civilizations. Because the beginning, you know, that food the way of life and everything was very simple because they were beduins in in the desert, wastes, but in the desert, then when when the first dynasty set up. You know, the seat was in the mask is it became it was quite magnificence. And then the embassies were amongst the most magnificent than the ultimate I mean through the centuries they expanded and had a huge, civilization culture. I mean, very serious, you know, with inventions and philosophy and everything art, beautiful art. So you. You know today people look at Islam and Muslims in a kind of you know, negative way. And and even they think that they're like backwards, and it's not, you know, kind of fanatical because they see through the prism of terrorists. Which is like, you know, the way is lamb is being presented these days. And I wanted to do something to kind of counteract this negative view of religion. That is the main religion in the world of one point eight billion people in very diverse and with a huge history, very important history of civilization and culture. Yeah. And certainly shows that it would also shows is the connections between different places, which is really interesting flat breads reds in general, one of the great things about this book is that the depth of research and recipes I've seen a lot of books covering similar topics. But none that really has the breadth. This one does could you just give us everyone knows three or four the obvious flat. Breads could you talk to us about the range of flat breads throughout the Islamic world. Because there are a lot of things in there. I'd never seen before, you know, you'd think that flat bread is very simple, but you have one particular category, which is the multi layered breads, which is extraordinarily because it it combines take Neak with also like one the full flavors and textures, and you find multi-layered breads almost everywhere, and in some cases. That technique is by flapping the dough around, and then folding it, and and you know, cooking it over hot plate and others. You know, you roll it into cylinder. And twist it and and then you end up with this multi layered effect, then you have a red light the Yemeni bread been to sun where they disks of our layered one on top of the other two have kind of like bread cake. Basically, I mean in the west you don't really get to see much of what goes on in a bakery because it's the bag and we're in the Middle East and North Africa and even in Indonesia in India and Pakistan. You see it being made in front of you, and you can spend hours watching these bakers. Let's talk about roasting. Camels. You say that. A wealthy wedding. They might roast a whole baby camel. You have a recipe for roasting camel hump. So camels as food the camel is an essential animal for the beduins because it's, you know, beast of burden it's survives in the desert because it can go long distances without you know, needing water. But at the same time, it's a very precious animal. I once was told by taxi driver, I think in in Syria, or maybe the butcher of camel butcher in Syria that the reason why people like to eat camel is that the communist suppose, a monogamous animal and its virtuous to eat it. I personally don't really believe in that theory. But it's kind of it's a fun theory. It's an expensive. Animal to buy in in the Gulf, you if you have a special occasion, or a wedding, whatever you would buy the whole animal a baby one because they're much nicer to eat, Ben when they're old because the then the meat becomes too tough. And the first time I ever had come was actually in Syria. And when I asked the guy the butcher to to to make me up. He looked at me. And he said, no, no, you don't want pieces you wanted an and it's confusing because in Syria kebob means men's meat and in Lebanon. Kibbe means, you know, like pieces of meat on a skewer, and the I just found out. He was accountable because I nearly bumped into the head hanging outside his shop. I mean, you know, kind of severed head still dripping blood. It was quite gruesome anyway, it was very interesting. And what is it is can you describe the taste and texture camel meat. It's a bit tough. I mean, even. For the baby come oh. It would be little bit stringy and maybe touched game here than then beef or lamb for me. It's like a eating some meat that is a cross between lamb and beef. It's not as rich as moist as Lum, and is not as sort of dense beef. But the most important thing is that it's it's a relatively tough meat. Let's talk about flaw ful. You say was originally from Egypt. They used a meek grinder with a fine. Attachment to make them very fluffy instead of pasty how come most of the flaw full. I get here is heavy. I mean, the the idea of fluffy chickpea. Flour sounds wonderful. I think is the way that made and the temperature of the oil, but basically for level are made with rule buses or legumes as you say in America. So some people make them with only chick peas of the people make them with only f- of beans and others make it with a mixture, depending on the percentage depends on the home cook if you're whizzing the role buses in the. In a food processor, you get mushy paste, that's very diff- difficult to kinda fluff up, and as you fry it. Whereas if you growing that you get these tiny little pellets of that don't actually they don't go Hejin of the pace is not the same. So as they fry and also people add baking soda to the mixture just before frying. So that they puff up a little bit. So as the philosophy fries instead of having a dense like pace that doesn't move and puffs up a little bit. But not that much. You have this kind of slight eruption in the hot oil. And it's very fluffy inside there's a restaurant here in London that makes them to perfection, and I go need them there. Lebanese sweet cheese pie. Because you talk about that delicious breakfast. Just going to have a few moments. Just just thinking about eating it for breakfast. And then we'll move on. It's actually one of my favorite breakfast. You have two versions of making it. I the two essential elements are the hair pastry. I call it. Happy street because it's basically better that stroked on a hot plate in very very very thin strands and then picked up and then layered, and then there's cheese on the Neath and baked and it's rubbed with butter. There's a lotta butter. That's the Palestinian version or noble Seaver Shen. And then you have the Lebanese version where that Hepi street is slightly toasted with butter, and then I learned off to the book that actually now they use food processors in the old days. They used to do it by hand, and it's very difficult to break it by hand to get a sort of semolina, but one of the most famous sweet sweet makers in Lebanon explained to me that now they grind it an food processor. So you have like a course flour. Which is made out of this happy street and you make a layer bake it first. And then you add the cheese and you bake it. And then you turn it over, and you pour huge amount of syrup on it. And if you want to have it as a breakfast, you stuff it in kind of sesame get and you each at a thousand categories of bite or you can eat it, you know, as just Huck by you know, as dessert or a snack sweet snack. And it's it's one of the great great great suites of the Middle East have to say where does Beirut stand today? And where do you think is headed? It's a very interesting city. It's incredibly badly managed almost unlivable from the point of view that the traffic is awful. It's kind of lawless, you know, from the point of view that you can run a red light. Nobody's gains to stop you. And then there's a wonderful. Life. There is people are totally resilient. Whatever happens from the civil war to the Bohm's to the then sets debase or lack of government people continue not only do they continue. But there's a huge section of the population who are very creative. And of course, the food scene is very interesting. Although to be honest, if I want to eat, really good, Lebanese food. I would not try. I would not each then be route. But in the mountains, I would go outside of Beirut to have it. And also it's completely destroyed as a city in the cities in the twenties and thirties, it was a beautiful city with ultimate houses. Overlooking the sea gardens greenery beautiful, and a very vibrant sort of town center where you had food markets close markets all kinds of different markets. The future is terribly uncertain as far as I'm concerned because until they resolve their problems and the lack of government oversight. I mean, I don't see it heading in the right direction or in a good direction. But this said it has survived the civil war. It has recovered from this war. It is. It is a great city to visit. I every time I go back. I love it. Thank you so much your book feast food of his lung world is fabulous. It's really it's nice to see a book that really brings all the pieces together with recipes. I haven't seen before really well done and well represented, so congratulations. Thank you. Thank you. Chris. That was chef and author a niece halloo or latest book is entitled feast food of the Islamic world. Not too long ago, I flew to Beirut and spend a couple of days cooking with a niece and her mother fresh the tar salad for breakfast, full, flat breads film with cheese, lentils and rice with fried onions, vulgar with rich tomato essence, grilled coughed Fatu to bully chickpeas. And every possible combination may route proves the happiness is not just about politics economy money. Maybe happiness is simple as a good breakfast. His time to chat with Catherine smart about this week's recipe. Indian spiced butternut squash soup. Katherine. How are you? I'm great. How are you? Well, that time of year we drag out the old butternut squash superspy among others. We've kept downstairs all the rest of the year in the basement. And it's a good recipe. But it's kind of bland kind of it's one of those things where you wanna play with it at all their flavors. So this is straight and we'd like to play with things and flavor. So what are we going to do to butternut squash soup? Yes, Chris we're going to dust off the old recipe and freshen it up of it. And in order to do that we are going to bloom some spices and have coriander and cumin ginger. We're going to bloom in oil. And what that is is just adding your dry spices too hot fat. So we're gonna use oil. You can you know that same technique is often used in butter to make Turco an Indian condiment, but we're gonna bloom the spices and oil, and then incorporate that into a pretty traditional butternut squash. It what's the basic method here. So to start off we're gonna saute the squash some carrots and onion in olive oil. And once those are a little. Brown. We're going to add that ginger, coriander, cumin and Cayenne, and that's where the blooming really comes into play. So everything's going into the same pot with oil. And then the spices are added along with everything else not separately. Right. And then we add the rest of the liquid in and generally that liquid might be stock, but we decided to just use water. We wanted to keep the flavors really clean and bright. We didn't wanna muddy them at all. And then everything is combined to make that classics smooth kind of rich soup, but we wanted some texture so we actually add some toasted pumpkin seeds or they're known as pepitas and for a final touch badges dull of yogurt, but you have to be careful, Chris, and you don't want to reheat the soup once you have that yogurt because we don't want it to curdle a little note of caution. Right. Very careful. So this is really an Indian spice butternut squash soup right pepitas with a pumpkin sees a little bitty over the. So we've taken it from boring to being rather grant, Catherine. Thank you. Thanks. You can get this recipe for Indian spice butternut squash the yogurt at one seven seven Millstreet dot com. I'm Christopher Kimball. You're listening to Millstream radio coming up next. Jay Kenji has has been experimenting in the kitchen again explains. The best technique for cheating extra crispy Turkey skin, right back. No. The modern kitchen is nothing like what I grew up with the choices fixtures lighting amid your playas are will overwhelming. And that's why whether you're planning your dream kitchen or building your dream home. Ferguson bath kitchen enlightening gallery can help start by browsing the online inspiration gallery. Ferguson showrooms dot com and then requested appointment with your local product expert, and they work with designers, builders and other trade professionals to meet your specifications while exceeding your expectations. Visit Ferguson showrooms dot com today to request your appointment. This is the most radio. I'm Christopher Kimball right now. Serra molten, I will be answering a few more of your culinary questions. Sarah, take a few more calls. Let's do it. Welcome to milk street. Who's gone gambling from Lebanon, New Hampshire? So how can we help you? I love to and I was making a cake a couple of weeks ago wireless chocolate tort, really simple recipe. I think maybe five ingredients and I'd melted the chocolate and the butter and the sugar altogether. And it said to be in one at a time, and it made me think of all the time I've seen that in a recipe as well. As seeing baking recipes where it says just be all three exit him say, so this culture, six eggs meeting in one of the time. And I was just wondering why is that? Well, I. Had the same question many years ago back and hundred fifteen years ago, and I agree with you on this. It'll just dump them in and then I ran into I ran into woman who wrote a bunch of books cakes in her books. I think she'd say at an egg and beat it for a minute or more. And I went back and did it and it made a big difference. You get a more stable foam. You get more air inquiry. As better, the most vacation, the batter you get a really solid stable foam out of it. So I would say absolutely one of the time and don't do it for like, eight seconds. I would do it for at least twenty seconds. Maybe thirty seconds for each egg. And I think you get a better more dependable battle cakes. We all had problems with cakes the don't rise evenly or they claps in the middle this. I think is you better rise in more consistent prize. My guess is there's no Levin or in this cake. Right galen. Exactly, it's so so the exit eleven these eggs. Yeah. Let me guess is it like rent a Sabaj at almonds ground almonds and sugar and chocolate and eggs something like that. Yes. About six ounces of chocolate. You add it's hot water with sugar mixed in the maker sugar. Walker you combine those with butter, and then after that you incorporate your eggs and a pinch of salt and some milk, and that's it. And when it comes down to the oven. Does it collapse a little bit on the top? Tiny little bit into the. No. That's why they call it. You know, fallen chocolate cake. Yeah. Because the eggs when the eggs get in the hot oven, they rise up. And then they, you know, fall after they come out. It's just like a souffle, that's fine. But smaller, but try that. I think you get more consistent results. I hate it. When you have to do it the right way, Casey really do making really these little things matter because it's much more of a science. I mean, it's all about science. Thanks for calling. Thank you so much help. I really appreciate to talk to you. Take care. You're listening to most radio. I'm Christopher Kimball. If you have a cooking question or concern police, don't be shy. Give us a call eight five five four to six nine eight four three eight five five four to six nine eight four three or Email a set questions at mill street radio dot com. Welcome to mistreat who's calling Eric from Louisville Kentucky. How are you? I'm doing good. How can we help you? Well, first of all just want to say a big fan of all things milk street. Thanks, eric. Yeah. I work remotely out of a home office. My wife works in a normal out of the house. But we do both love to cook. In the evenings. I didn't get little things done throughout the day around the house when I'm able to squeeze in five or ten minute breaks here and there so on days when I do dinner, I really like to take care of meal prep when I can earlier in the day. But how soon is too soon like obviously, you wouldn't want to cut a banana or an apple, but I'm thinking of things like onions, mushrooms zucchini are these okay? And then additionally what about me product. I can't see any downside, and anything you just said the one thing that comes to mind is tomatoes because they don't like to be refrigerated if you're dealing with fresh tomatoes. You have to refrigerate them after you cut them, you know, are low. I don't know if you're going to cook them six hours later, if they, you know, get into trouble on the counter just say word about room temperature now. Yeah. A public disservice announcement out here are we going to get in trouble. No. I just think this American obsession with everything being refrigerated all the time. I mean, you can leave meet out a couple hours before you cook is not going to be the end of the hour since the rule. Yeah. But if it's Stu meet I'll risk it on Jons and garlic do not have to be necessarily refrigerator for a long time. I think the one thing you do want to do is cover right on the surface. We don't get accident that to some things like radishes potatoes. You put in water, of course, carrots store, the McColl water. Just put a damp paper towel on top that works. Not potatoes potatoes. You have to put in water. I think meet you could easily cut up and put in the fridge onions, garlic. No problem. Some of those other vegetables and water Apple's not I tend not to chop. Herbs until I use them. I find they get new orle-, and they get a little wet turned texture. It gets how do you feel about tomatoes would never leave it to minute fridge? Even before I cut it. Well, no, of course, not. But I'm saying f you cut it. Why wouldn't have to put the fridge? Okay. So we just leave it on the counter. Yeah. Okay. Luli counter guy. I guess we got that here. Now. Well, I mean, look the French used to leave their eggs on the counter, they never refrigerated them. You know that? Yes. Okay. So is there anything we've left out not that? I can think of so that my next question would be for something like an onion or something. That's okay. To be in the refrigerator. What's to stop me from cutting up, you know, five or six onions on a Monday to begin for the rest of the week. I think what's going to happen is over time. They're going to lose their crunch. They're going to start releasing water. I don't think they're going to have the same flavor. I don't really know. Good question on the fence. Good question on the fence about that one. The only other thing I'm thinking about is you put that stuff in your fridge. Your fridge is going to start smelling like onions, garlic, and you don't really want your apples peaches to smell on using. I'd say two days ahead fine. If you're going to cook with it in a super, Stu, it doesn't really matter if you're going to Dyson onion and use it is Ross, for example in a salad or with some grains or parsley or something that you wouldn't want to do it at a time. That's a great. Yeah. Okay. I think I'll fame day prep. Same days fun. Take care. Thanks for calling. Okay. Bye. Bye. You know, you have really adamant serious cooks author to say personal problems. This is mostly radio. I'm Christopher Kimball. Here is this week's milk street. Basic. When it comes to spinach, kale and chard. There's a lot of prep, and that's why sometimes people don't make them. But the French really do have a better idea, they blanched these greens ahead of time. This them trying keep them at the ready, in fact at French markets, you can actually buy false of blanche greens ready to finish it home with a quick turn in a Skillet or trivial vinaigrette. So how do you do this at home? Well, start by cleaning and stemming the greens than blanche in boiling water before courts of water season with two tablespoons, kosher salt until just tender then drain and cool quickly and cold running water, then using your hands squeezed dry in gathering to a ball. The greens will be good for up to four days stored in an airtight container. For more culinary inspiration. Please go to one seven seven milk street dot com. Next up science writer, j Kenji Lopez all has the answer to a better thanksgiving Turkey Kenji. How are you? I'm doing good. How are you? Pretty good. Thanksgiving is upon us. And you and I have done dozens of Turkey's between us, probably right? But maybe there's something new so something new for us this thanksgiving, well, not necessarily new but going back to a topic that I know a lot of people care about. So I'm one of these people that loves roast Turkey, even the white meat and a lot of people don't. But I think everybody wants crispy Turkey skin like certainly in my family. That's what happens people go into the kitchen after the Turkey is done in pick off all the skin usually before it even gets to the table. So I thought we could talk a little bit about Turkey skin. And what makes it crispy? And what makes it not crispy my answer is just get rid of the skin eight me. But you're right. It almost everybody else in my household is obsessed with the skin. So how do you do it? When you're tricky skin or your chicken skin is Kristen up or even pork skin. There's a few things going on. I mean, as we know there's a lot of fat in. Skin, and that kind of all has to render out if you don't want it to be greasy install in fatty tasting. But there's also a ton of connective tissue in Turkey skin. If you take skin off a piece of chicken or a piece of Turkey, and you try and pull on it. It's pretty elastic. And as you know from brazing short ribs, pork shoulder anything like that connective tissue takes a long time to break down. And so for turkeys, get chicken skin, your goals are sort of threefold to render the fat. So that the not greasy to dehydrate it and Brown it, and then finally to break down that connective tissue. And if you're missing sort of any of those elements, you're gonna run into problems just might be tougher it might be soggy or fatty. So those are three goals one technique that I've seen even recommended in the past is taking your chicken or your Turkey salting it and then letting it sit overnight a fridge meter loosely covered or sometimes even uncovered a couple years ago when I was testing turkeys for thanksgiving. I thought well what if we take this to the extreme and let the Turkey completely dry out before we wrote. So we'll completely get rid of that dehydrating steps. And now all we have to focus on is the Browning fat. Rendering the connective tissue breakdown. So I tried it and roasted the Turkey and came out around and beautiful not fatty, but the skin was like, plastic it wasn't crunchy. Doll was tough. You left it in their frigerator for a longer amount of time. Yeah. Three days uncover refrigerator. So that idea to let it go on covered for up to three days. But what you certainly don't want to do is take it out of that Craiova bag and just season thrown straight and the Evan. This skin is going to be soaking wet. It's like it's been sitting in a bathtub. So you definitely do want to let it dehydrate at least overnight in the fridge. And then from there, there's a few different techniques you can use you can roast traditionally is United. What happens then is that? Oftentimes, it's going on the underside of the Turkey doesn't Chris properly because it's not having the same access to circulating air the same access to heat. The top of the Turkey is so my recommendation is and has been for the past probably ten years or so dispatch Kaku chicken works. Great for Turkey skate for chicken, essentially, cutting the backbone in laying flat roasting on a baking sheet instead of a baking pan because then you. Get the same heat and the same air circulation all across the entire surface of the skin. That's another important thing is making sure that you have good circulation. If your oven has convection setting you probably want to kick it on for the last twenty minutes or so of cooking just to get that extra Christmas. If it's not Browning properly circulating air heats more effectively than still air. Really? I think you know, spatchcock and giving it that even exposure to the heat letting dry out a little bit overnight. But not too much is the key to really crisp skin. So the day before you take it out dry. It off course jolt you put it under the skin to or just on top you put it under skin. It'll definitely help them. Meet stay a little bit juicier. If you put it under the skin, essentially, you're sort of black dry brining, some people call it, light, curing Cochrane, kosher. Yeah. You're centrally breaking down some of the protein in that meat. So that it doesn't shrink as much cokes retains more moisture. So putting it under the skin in direct contact with the meat can help that separating the skin from the meat in the process of putting this under the skin. You're also ending up separating the skin. So that helps a lot as well because it gives channels right for rendering fat to drain out. Spatchcock in that sense also helps because all of us can drain sort of evenly. And there's a lot more channels for that rendering fat to escape so the turkeys on Iraq on a baking sheet in the fridge overnights for those of you who have refrigerators large enough, you can also salt and leave the Turkey on smaller wreck before spatchcock it you consulted hole. And then spatchcock at just before roasting it and then transferred to a bigger trade. You what I do? I put it down in the basement of root cellar. I get one of those bright sort of igloo beer carriers, and I put a bunch of ice in there and put on in closed. So the next day you roasted at what temperature dispatch cocking it then you roasted hot four hundred fifty degrees and for something like this, by the way, I wouldn't recommend anything larger than like twelve pound Turkey or so ten to twelve pounds about the largest you want to do. So if you have a huge thanksgiving you want to come up with an alternative or cook multiple turkeys, so four hundred eighty degrees and it cooks in about ninety minutes or so at ten pound Turkey will go about ninety minutes super hot super fast, extra crispy. So that's Kenji. Oh, Pez all to the last word. Just have to promise me is this the last word on Turkey or next year's I've come up with another method. This has been my recommendation for cooking Turkey, definitely for the last eight nine years at least. And I haven't changed it because I haven't found that works better. So every year on military radio would just rerun the segment. Yeah. That's Jyrki Kenji all the best sounds like a great method. And maybe I'll give it a shot this year. Thank you. All right. You too. You too. That was J Kenji Lopez Altis, the author of the food lab better home cooking through SCI. He's also the chief culinary visor for serious eats. This week. I interviewed Andrew Ray about is YouTube show bingeing with Babich. And my question is why with three million people wanna watch injury make rocky pie. Well, maybe we're just bored with a real world. I grew up with the ordinary. I love Lucy and bonanza today viewers want the extraordinary game of thrones in Westworld. So what if it turns out that the ordinary is? In fact, extraordinary the simple things of life are in fact, the universe's most marvelous creations. I think I'll have a nice ordinary slice of apple. That's it for this week show. Tune too late. You can always find though street radio and apple podcasts. Tune Institure play or Spotify. Please remember to subscribe to the shell. You'll automatically get every episode downloaded to your phone or tablet each week. If you wanna learn more about Millstreet, please go to one seven seven milk street dot com. You can find each week's recipe. Watch the new season of TV show. Subscribe to a magazine order new cookbook milk street, Tuesday nights. We'll be back next week. And thanks as always from listening. Kimble's milk. State radio is produced by milk street in association with w GBH executive producer, Melissa Gino senior audio editor Melissa Alson producer any associate producer Jackie Noack production, help from paddock senior audio engineer Douglas sugar editing from big American Finney Lewis and audio mixing from Jay Allison Atlantic public media in Massachusetts music by chew Bob krill, additional music by George Brenner Igwe. Christopher Campbell's milk street. Radio is distributed by Pete art.

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