Designing Austria


Oh sure of SKI IS PROUD TO PARTNER Monaco on design this world ski journey is a glittering tale of a crystal manufacturer cut from humble beginnings. That's grown into a global brand over five generations the company has continued to innovate and to grow. It's a true success story and one that's far from told. The current custodians of Swarovski are determined that the company will continue to be a glittering model for business for sustainability and for community for generations to come Swarovski and Asli illuminating creativity and sparking delight since eighteen ninety-five as Monaco on design molecules. Weekly look at the best in architecture craft furniture and fashion. I'm Josh venit coming up. We're focusing on the small but mighty nation of Austria and delving into the country's craft and design clout designers influenced by. The accident is some of them. They're influenced by other laws or by the ten pack plus we peruse the pages of Monocle magazine's March issue. Yes it's Austria themed and it's a special that takes in everything from Alpine architecture to industrial design. Think it means Squirrel Austrian type of girl but yeah great name. That's all coming up right here on Monaco on design on monocle twenty four. Welcome TO MONACO ON DESIGN NOW Monaco's March issue as I mentioned is on newsstands now and pays particular to all things. Austria has such. We thought we dedicate the show to exploring how this relatively small nation punch his well above. Its weight on the global stage offering lessons on everything from designed to diplomacy and hospitality. I up. We're talking fashion design in Vienna with Rica Shabby Sir Handler. She's curated a new show entitled to show off at the Museum of Applied Arts in the Austrian capital our producer. Tom Started by asking ship. It's a handler about the heady days of high fashion in one thousand nine hundred eighty s but as it was sweeny important to show the contemporary Australian fashion scene and this scene started in the eighties because they have three really important things in Vienna. One thing was that the rector the well known artist official man that unfortunately hittites three weeks ago and he was dead diamond at beginning of the eighties director at the University of applied art in Vienna. It's insane but frauds Konaga at the beginning of the eighties to Vienna teaching profession. Plus and Karl Lagerfeld. This time they had designers. Khloe and his impact change totally. The impact of for the students keep really changed session in the session class and this was really important and design us like Tucson the UK invest rotator. Track land. Rough Simmons Bennett be sold out in the past thirty years so this is a very special special education. Nba Anna and the second important thing was. There's really cool under come club known as SIA and OSCE shellman they own of fear. He found it at the beginning of the eighties he found. It's the freshman event and it was in eighty three and then Australian designer showed their collections there and they came also designers from London. Came John Galliano John Rancher and the performance obviously our and they showed the collections fear and for the whole like underground scene. It was Powell. Because in the eighty s still decree streets were way the consecrate the be perfect way and it will see was really super cool under chrome spot and the second thing was at the beginning of the atheist side. Christ marketing Venus Home Indiana. Maybe you can compare it with the British magazine. The say's and it was the first guard. Magazine he Indiana so being really three very important starting points for the Austrian fashioned seen. That's really interesting. I'm interested in the idea of people who arrive in place and set off a bit of a chain reaction that's interesting. The Karl Lagerfeld had the effect at the university. I'm also interested in what you're saying about Vienna being a gray place because you know in my felt that way. I guess in the eighties. But you know it's been a cultural center and a highly respected city for the arts and Culture Design Music of course for centuries. What was it about that? Time where people had fallen out of love with the Culture Vienna. I guess why had van is inhabitant. Start to feel that way was. There's something going on. You know politically or culturally. That had made people feel that Vienna. Wasn't this relevant place before someone like Karl. Lagerfeld came and reminded everyone. I'm look born in Vienna so I came later to be Anna so I know on with stories about this time and like everybody told me that in China there had only been a few places like the whole scene developed out of really this Tina places like they had only been six really cool spots Yanbian. Ah that had been detained had been the catfish die in the FIA. So these few places like all the people out of the different scenes came displaces and happened a lot of exhibitions and shows. We're going on there. But also concerts going on flakes on the Shiite was totally crazy that had been the B concepts with brains or shoddy And after big concerts that came to the indicate cave data concepts here so the scene was really very connected so they came out of the art scene. Came out of the design seen the fashion scene and they worked crossover. That's really amazing. Because Today Agee. It's kind of the same situation that the cramp is people. They re really work like they have discussed over idea and likes to work with people from other fields and acting Indiana that pine this was really important for the whole scene because all the people were hanging up in the same places and they went together and strong development and let's talk about the exhibition itself many pieces many different styles of fashioning. The told me about some of the highlights for you that featured in the exhibition. Okay I think one of the really super pieces Woody Cam. Business in the exhibition could again right. Lead the country to escape Hitler and he moved in thirty eight to Los Angeles and he became really an in America and again like designed the monarchy. I think everybody knows the monarchy and second important designing exhibitions of costs iconic caitlyn. He founded his brand in eighty six and he moved to New York in ninety six and then he sold his friend in two thousand five so we have beautiful hang with land pieces from two different museums from an seeming path and from the we see the Lamont embarrass and from one private collector from New York and then we have review. will be out of the eighties that had been not that well known designers but for that time they had been really important flick somber macdonald-smith Lithium. What when you look at an exhibition like this in the whole does the view of come away with an overall impression. That's may be one separate question but I want to ask you is. Is there a defining characteristic which Australia design and perhaps Vienna based design? Can you say patent through? The is the defining characteristic that unites a lot of these different kinds of designers. This really hard because I wouldn't say okay. This is Australian fashion design. I think you can see or feel different interferences. A lot of designers influenced by the YOU KNOW. The accident is some of them. They're influenced by other laws or fighting Australian packed session August with extra time. And I think that's the most important thing so I wouldn't say that something totally specific about Austin fashion design as a result of disgust. Vienna itself has been known for centuries for Art Music. But you know it. It's maybe been overshadowed by maybe cities like Berlin and Milan and Paris which You know they're not next door but they are kind of neighboring major cities. What do you think? Vienna has not had such a loud voice on the fashion scene as other cities in recent years the NFL fashion city. I mean we have no session in those tweet here. You can compare it with Berlin and Antwerp the end Australia. Like it's really not that big but if you can see it in exhibition we show sixty designers in the exhibition and we showed two hundred and fifty fashion objects. So that's for such a small country that's amazing and so I think we are not Barry's London or New York but you could compare with Berlin and do you think Australia values the talent. There is homegrown odors Australian talent. Feel that they have to. Maybe go abroad to really really make no. I think that's not really important. I mean the whole fashion system change totally from the youngest seen. We have really cool designs now working in this session scene. We have a bit of a tough. He lives Yanna and he shows his collections in London and in various we have other designers like a pillow toy he used to study in Antwerp and then he moved to London officer. He studied in London and then moved to Milan so the whole fashion business is like at the moment. If you stay in the Anna Disk because the rents are not at high you can work here you can produce here and then you go any way to the big fashion weeks and you show your collections and you sell your collections. Also with the new possibilities light with the social media possibilities with instagram and also with ECOMMERCE platforms conceit everywhere to moment into can show your nieces on social media and you can sell it so at the moment the whole system changes. I've been told by other people. You mentioned it there. The the rent prices and things Quite inviting to maybe the creative class of people but am I right in thinking that Vienna it also it city infrastructure and that kind of thing it quite well accommodates people who want to pursue a creative cross. Does that correct yes? That's really amazing. Here because as I mentioned the rents and everything like if you compare it with various London or New York if you're gonNA earn so much money you can afford to city. That's really amazing. And then you get a lot of support from different politically department's like if you work in the creative industry you really can get a lot of support like financial support and also different business supports and that's very special for Austria. Nasr also the same system I think in London and also in Berlin but I think this is really a very special thing here that politics really give a lot of money in the creative seen here. Is that something specific to the creativity or is that something. That is quite. Broadly shared across the Austrian approach to life. Is The Australian government quite supportive of I guess like Social Welfare and encouraging people to be able to learn new things as that something? The Australia promotes yes. I think that's totally this. We started in two thousand. That politics really decided that a creative scene should be supported and since that time the ghosts million a lot of money in this scene and I think that's really special ARECO shepherds a handler. They're speaking to the show's producer. Tom Whole show off Austrian. Fashion Design is at the Mac Museum. Vienna's Museum of Applied Arts and runs until July and your bank with Monaco on design. And I'm still Josh Bennett back on the Australian designed tip. I caught up with monocoque. Design Editor Nolan Giles. To See what delights hit uncovered any march issue of the magazine. We began by speaking about why he sidestepped some of the more obvious. Austrian design staples. Let's not be too harsh on the the grand details of Austrian design which I have dedicated a little bit of space to one of the interesting things about Australian design. Is this just inherent love for detail for quality and you know those chairs that you were talking about the net. Chaz that's still in production today. They've been in production for maybe two hundred or so years. People are still buying them. There is something that can be said to that. But also you know. There is a whole new world of contemporary Austrian design that we dug into our grand Austrian design tour. And as I look through these pages they look very fetching lovely mix of short stories of illustration that. You've really gone into the details. Their stories about typography `grats their stories about the manufacturing sector about making tractors and things of that nature which are bit less obvious late known on the world stage about hoster. What was some of the stories that kind of stuck out for you? Yeah I think just going back to what I was saying before attention to detail. Kind of marks everything. That's don in Australia. They really really care. About every little component of design so that could be like you say in the manufacturing where we looked at vehicle design so we have an amazing tractor by a company called Linda. Here who basically you know deal with very fussy to rolling farmers who want the very best looking tractors for this lips to impress rivals across the field but also super functional as well so this thing is not going to break down like no matter how deep the snow is when they're doing the winter work and then they're lighter elements to with regards to vehicles so another great example is this device called Ziesel which is a wheelchair that goes off road to takes disabled people wherever they want to go on the slopes and a nice bit branding their on the name Ziesel. I'm not sure what it means in Germany but it sounds like a bit of Fun Nippon. Z's left I needed to think it means Squirrel Australian type of girl but yet great name. Oh I love that. You've done amazing thing here which I really liked. I suppose the Austrian diaspora the modernists who were integral to designing the California of the fifties sixties and seventies with thinking about Richard Notre. A little known fact the mole was invented by an Australian guy. Could Victor Gruen. Do you think the Austrian designers beyond Australia. I know there's a lot of manufacturing home. We care about that. But do you think Austrian designers played a role on the world stage? A little bit as well. Yeah I love this piece. That one of our journalist Andrew Romano wrote forest where he really goes into this impact. Those modernists that you were talking about Hatton California residential design across the states which went on to inform the amazing modernist houses. You'd see as far away as the Gold Coast in Australia. But I think today perhaps not so much in the architecture certainly in the world of graphic design. The Austrians really are ahead of the pack and a lot of ways but it tends to be Austrians that go abroad Australia. Using the the knowledge and the practical way of design that they've lead at home and take it into far flung corners of the globe. And and really push it so Steph Elsag maestas a really good example of that someone you know who learned his craft in Austria moved to New York went onto establish one of the most important graphic design companies in the world and their names continuing to do that but on the home front and I think this is kind of interesting as well looking at what separates that designers in Australia. A lot of them really pick up on the grandeur. The beautiful inglorious old past old glamour of Australia really is them. You're a big fan of Vienna. I know like when you walking around these coffee shops. You really almost feel like you're stepping back in time. And for people like Verena penholder. Who's a Vienna based graphic designer direction? Expert that we profiled. She really feels that in her work. She really can just take inspiration from the old building. The old signs and then I guess because you know you're so open to international clients these days she's able to translate that into a really strong global body of work absolutely and just to Andrew. Romano piece actually lives in annoyed tra- house so he would know he saw town. Amazing modernist birth to live in as well for people that maybe aren't familiar with Austria. One of the reasons that we decided to approach editorially was we feel like there's a space in the world for positive stories and one of the things that really sticks out. The I think the world can learn from Australia is about keeping crafter home. Savannah is the biggest landlord in Europe and it allows people to run a business close to where they live in affordable price and actually make things and as. I flicked through your designed directory. It could be beautiful old silver. That's been made in the same place for one hundred years in the sixth or seventh district could be accompanied like cow. Model that makes lighting spur. Roszke did a piece of advertising in the issue but we're also obviously a fan of them. How important do you think? Croft is to the Austrian story overseas in the UK of sold all that to The Far East but they've managed to hold onto a bit in Europe. I haven't yeah. I think it's incredibly important. It really does mark everything that they do that in terms of design and particularly industrial design. And I'd like to point out a story about a lovely lady and design curator called elite Story Liechtenstein who? I've had quite a lot to do with in the last few years because she's always at every single you know important. International Design of 'em whether that's designed Miami or Milan Design Week and she really champions Australian Kroft through the Lens of young designers all around the world. She invites these young talents from Miami or Mellon to come and take pot at residency that she hosts in her Schloss Josh. I think you'd be for this. You get to spend two weeks there. Go around this incredible old. Cosso filled with the most beautiful furniture and furnishings. Take inspiration from it and then channel it into a new project often working with artisans and makers in that part of Rural Austria near Grottes so I mean as an experience is absolutely incredible. It really speaks to this idea of maintaining this strong relationship with Croft Mowlam's sold. I'm waiting for my invite just looking elsewhere in the issue. I mean we have interviews with Lily Line. Who is the head of Vienna Design Week? Her brother Max Jalan important curator in New York just showing that kind of Austrian connection around the world. There's also a lovely story that equity could have sat in the design sanction but ended up in culture about the R F if. I'm saying that correctly Austrian Broadcasting Radio House but I'm GonNa bring things a little bit closer to home for my final question. Roland is well known in the design. Press that you've just moved house. You're furnishing a lovely new home. Here in London. Did any Austrian buys. Make it onto the longlist. You know they don't need to be sitting on the coffee table just yet but have you got your eyes on anything that would be not massively unaffordable rare one of peace from the early twentieth century. But just a bit approachable Austrian designed to honest to might want to indulge in. Well I was a little bit cheeky. When I reported this design section I went to Vienna and hung out with a couple of guys who I think absolutely incredible what they do is they buy old villas and old mid-century buildings in parts of Rural Austria and convert them into incredible new hotels and stayaways and have really attracted the crowd from Vienna to head to these places and they furnish these villas once called Villa Antoinette. The other one's called hotel firm Blake with fines. Mainly from this one market which I was so keynes's check out that I had to write a whole story about so myself and Michael. Who's one half of the developing? These hotels went down to Nash. Mocked in the middle of Vienna on a freezing cold morning and just spent the morning bogging and buying pieces. He bought most of the pieces. He has a bit more money May and put them all together and made a beautiful story in photo. Shoot out of that so that was a cheeky for me. I also worked with the photographer. Who Shot with that to do a story later in the issue about cakes which is very exciting and why the little a tourist mainstay and have survived from the. Habsburg days but the photographer told me a very cold on the national. He's got some good portrait view. Bundled up in a nice fleece jacket. My sincere thanks. To Monaco's design editor Nolan Giles. For that informed and insightful rundown you can purchase the march issue of Monocle magazine at all self-respecting newsstands or find out more information about it a monocle dot com last up we talked with designer whose work takes hints from the motifs traditional as the dental to create Maden Austrian classics Vienna correspondent Alexei Corey of recently met with clothing designer. Lena horse check to find out more about her work. My name is Leeann harsh. Eric I founded my label. Almost fifteen years ago in my hometown of cuts in beautiful Syria in Horak is mainly associated with a traditional line. Applic- called Lena ho-shik Credit Joan. Although the dental is only account for less than ten percent of sales but she says traditional dresses where she gets her inspiration. Do you like to be associated with the traditional? Of course I don't mind it because I'm proud of my roots. I like what I do. I love the fabrics. We have a very beautiful heritage of textile art more or less. It's also one of my main. Inspirations when I looked to other countries and then the Australian Line for me it's my roots. Come from it's what I learned at my grandma. She taught me how to saw in by hand when I was like thirteen. Fourteen think of main reason why my collections really successful is that we put a lot of attention to detail in the craftmanship in the combination of different fabrics. And also the lining. The Wade's made is always tailor-made and not MS product. Do you do a lot of work yourself embroidering anymore. Unfortunately I used to be mainly creative one touch fabric and start cutting it and putting it together and sewing but I was not the most professional to be honest I would like just cut into it. Start sewing and then make alterations. I'm the same in the kitchen. I never followed recipes. Does it apply to as well? No because I have my staff and they love working very professionally so I can be unprofessional as a designer which amazing I suppose there's still lots of traditional tailors in the countryside making the accounts and traditional dress. So why should people come to you? That's a good question. Actually you have to have people. From the quality perspective one of the analysts probably top notch. We use only pure silk whereas most companies use have silk polyester these days. But I couldn't I simply couldn't and then purely in them. Pure cotton sold equality of the fabrics is definitely up across a dishonored to save on fabric. Is it usually the Austrians Austrian women by dentals not only because it's become a bit of a trend recently to get married in Australia and for that we saw a lot of handcrafted? Can you talk a little bit about the history of the dental? The dental the classically as you describe it consists of four parts percival skirt second Abram third bodice to call it and then under the bodies would be a blouse so it was the typical combination of pieces of clothing. Worn in the borking. Classes are in the country for farmers. This type of dress is also basically the same in all countries in all cultures. Which for me makes amazing to compare maybe Bohemian dress. Also Turkish and Greece. National addresses are so similar. They all make regional. Differences visible by applying different. Handcraft Australian. Today is stillborn in daily life. Because it's not very stiff. It's wearable if it's a cotton one not a silk one. You can definitely work to office in Syria where I'm from. It's become actually quite common if you have appointments with dinners and you don't want to put on like a cocktail dress. You take deadline. And then yeah then came the Nazis in the thirteenth. So let's just skip like from all these hundreds of years dental mainly existed in the same shape in one thousand nine hundred. Thirteen Nazi's decided that there is going to be very strict rules about how a din looks in a different freedom because they were very clever to instrumentalise something that is very common and very rural and very down to Earth also and speaks to people and if you still stick to those rules I mean. It doesn't say that you're any kind of right wing thinker when I grew up at never wasted a single thought about if my national dresses. I'm right being person. And I thought it was very unfair to the item of clothing to instrumentalise it and everyone who were lead. Horton and be proud of their Australian roots to put them in the certain box and I was always fighting against it and the trend towards a dental and lederhosen and Austrian national dress came back very very slowly but then almost exploded. Because I think Australians as well as Germans they had to be ashamed of their heritage after Second World War for such a long time whereas English or French. All of those countries committed war crimes and still do. But nobody's pointing at Italians and say like you're like a fascist because you're proud of your country and you wave your flag but the Austrians and Germans. They had like a huge complex about it. All the people still put it in the same box because there were forced to read. They'll when they were young and the parents would be not with the regime so it's still stained from my point of view. I hope that came across K. A. C. strongly about it I was I was Gonna ask you about it. I mean I'm glad you talked about you. So do you recreate the original the traditional pattern? So you add anything. I love sticking to bury traditional rules of how constructed in little and how to finish it how to work your hands through the fabric. Basically but of course don't stick to the regional color combination roles because I think that's totally up to the regions to reproduce their own regional deals so for me. It's a fashion Indian Lonzo to new color combinations or I would use Morris Fabrics with beautiful founder Sierra club Prince and combine it with a Silk Apron on I love English rose prince to use for the animals. So that's a combination you know what's English fabric doing on a dental. But it's just my the predation and we've been selling those really successfully leinna harsh chack. Speaking to Monaco's Vienna correspondent Alexi Cory thanks Alexei and sadly that's all the time we have on today's show for even more designed light to hit subscribe to this show. You'll get on mini mid week. Podcast undesired xtra which comes out each Thursday. The new edition of Monocle magazine is on newsstands to do that. Out OR HEAD TO MONACO COM. Monocle on design was produced by Tom Hall. And it edited by mainly Evans. I'm Josh Venit. Thank you very much for listening goodbye.

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