Perry Ellis, Kim Jong Un, Jodi Madame Kind discussed on Monocle 24: The Monocle Daily

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And to some extent it has been quite a success. Let's move on to North Korea. Now where there is a portrait of of Kim Jong UN's gum on public display for the first time. I mean, this is not something should be surprised that all of Asli this already demonstrate the young Kim himself has cemented power among his covenant. And he no longer need. He's no longer that young leader Nate, his uncle, and he's only to help him to run the country. But nowadays, he become he makes himself become an international celebrity become the person will readable to see. I mean think about how many international leaders he met list, you shouldn't paying Donald Trump president of the Kuba putting those in the pipeline. So in a way is really a public display. He's has a food grip of power. I'm I'm assuming this is a flattering portrait. Well, he probably will have to try to slim down some point because I mean, just face. It doesn't look very flattering to me at all. But is all of the country. I don't count imagine anyone slightly to say could lose a few pounds. I couldn't you came seems unlikely. He she. Thank you very much for coming in this evening. You're listening to twenty four. Finally tonight to even those like me who have only the most cursory understanding of fashion still know that eventually everything comes back into star Marc Jacobs. It seems is taking that lesson to extreme lengths the designers. Reproducing one of his most famous collections twenty five years after its debut. Well, let's speak to Dana Thomas is a fashion and culture, Janice. Joining me on the line now from Paris. This is the famous grunge line of the the nineties. Tell me more about it. It was really a radical moment in fashion until then, you know, the most fashion designers were doing Jodi Madame kind of close if you think about it, and they were fun. But they were always for pretty women think what Karl Lagerfeld was doing it Chanel and Valentino Neef Sandler hall. They were coming full very bullsh- while looking clothes, and and things were sort of. There was always a restrict wherein and some cool stuff coming. Out of the hip hop world. But nothing, you know, on the runways it was really down and dirty and Mark put out this collection for spring summer nineteen Ninety-three for Perry Ellis, which is where he was working at the time as a as a designer before he had his own line and everything else, and and it was sort of catching zeitgeist of the music movement. That was coming out of Seattle nirvana. And you know, the Pearl Jam the whole grunge music movement, which because he was part of that kind of crew he's an old club kid, but he was hanging out with these cool people. His friends Sofia Coppola was making music videos. He was hanging out with these people. And he was he was young and he was into it. And he decided to channel that onto the runway, and it was kind of like taking the the Seattle thrift shop, look, but then doing it in luxury fabrics that he did, you know, sort of these flannel shirts, but in silk, and he did, you know? We'll beanies, but they were in Kashmir, and he did some floral slip dresses, but he wasn't you know, they were kind of like thrift shop dresses, but you know, for about one hundred times more of the money and stripy t shirts that were you know, sort of fashion versions of T shirts that you would find it a charity shop and it landed like a thud among the critics Bernardine. Moore's of the New York Times said the typical outfit looks as if it were put up together with the eyes closed in a very dark room. She wrote that in the New York Times. So we really hit. Nobody got it. And except for the young kids who bought it, and we're into it, and he was fired for Perry Ellis because of the of the collection, and then he went on to start his own label and then work at Louis tone. So it really launched him in a way and he needed to not be anymore. And he and this sorta gave him the moment to step away from that sort of restricted restrictive night. Seventh avenue commercial clothing line and really become a fashion designer with a capital f this season reworking old ideas, that's a that's a standard in in the fashion industry. This is just remaking..

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