JIN, London, Jared Brown discussed on Monocle 24: The Menu
It's easy to think that the current Gina Boom in Britain or GINA's are some want to call. It would have been going on for long. But actually it's a prissy recent phenomenon. And the Genie Brent zips Matthias much to do with it seeps. Matthias been celebrating. Its tenth birthday this year a bit earlier I met Sam goals worth go phones roof. The distillery and mustard is dealer jared brown sam start by explaining how he and he's business partner. Fairfax Hall decided to launch the company. The idea that came when I was living in America and I saw this amazing so kroft movement. This sort of seismic activity of consumers looking very differently differently. You know how they can seem they wanted to see where it was made and how it was made and actually bite by whom it was made. That was really really important. And then you come back to London. We were from Fairfax and I grew up together in Coleman he was even the US during different thing me and we we. We look back at London. which was the home of GIN is historical birthplace of gin and there was only really one single brand operated distillery and we were so convinced that consumer movements of how people on picked brands and shows brands that mindset would exist in in London Magen an having wonders theory? That was not good enough. That was never going to satisfy a need state in London pundits who were desperate for anticipate and storytelling. And so with that remind thefts and I said Bite trying to establish GIN distillery again but this time having yet accessible having people come in and learn about how jen is made because I think it was the time a great gap of knowledge I think from what Jin was and how it was made and so we quit our jobs we sold flats and we went all in on that and so we went to the government. We said we would like licensed to set up a GIN distillery and they said no exact with is that you AH. We couldn't believe it you know by. Then we'd jobs with salt flats we all in and so we have a very quickly screw around nothing there's the adage of you know if there's ever been a really good good idea and business someone's already had it before you and I actually. That was definitely the case with Jim. I see but they haven't pursued that. No they've taken. That known walked away so there was a law that said you couldn't own a gin distiller in London. Unless you're still was bigger than eight hundred hectolitres which was Y- prohibitively large. So we set might on a you know a year and a half journey of trying to overturn that law which long story short we did. We managed I get up. MP's and and the light to change and in the two thousand and seven Finance Act. The no change wants theory and SIP. Smith at that point became the first GIN distillery in London for two hundred years. And that was when we met jared and has been all sort of true north ever since well if you recap what's been happening in the last ten years they would have be the biggest milestones. The I was getting up and running and getting a still in London when we began. It was just three of us in a tiny west London garage. Export was outside the twenty-five distribution moped. We blew our AD budget on the sticker for that moped. Oh ped- the early customers still remember Sam arriving case of Gin one helmet under the other and to go from that to being in fifty five countries. Now still fifty these county but yeah I mean I think that was a massive milestone. We won some huge awards awards along the way I certainly look at Cyp Smith and I think when I think about what's really distinctive and stand out about it you know notwithstanding the the gin which we've always made it used to be in the way it should be. It's our team. I think we've been very good at developing a really amazing team. Kroft agenda tell stories. I think that's been a prolific also. So what we've seen. The last ten years has been a massive massive boom when it comes to the gene industry not only in the UK but internationally enormously. You've been playing a big part in this. Why do you think this happened now? I think there are lots of different influences and forces that have moved in category. Ready to where it is today I think first of all I referenced that seismic activity of consumers that shift in the way they buy and the motivations for you know taking away the layers of the onion nion to understand really what's in Nebraska. Why brand exists in? Its reason for being. I think that's part of it. You've got bartenders prolific. Botton's Auden's which is now I think since we start really become a true true recognized profession whereas I think you know twenty years ago it wasn't quite as exactly now. It is prolific global profession and quite rightly. Say it's an art form. And I think the direction which bartenders mixologist. Call Them. What you will they have pushed the boundaries of Gina's which way that people are really interested interested curious and excited about it? I I think there was a pent up. Need Jin to do more in premium is. This was exactly why it was good timing. I'm for us. Frankly when we came along people were getting bored with vodka. The Vodka Soda was ubiquitous. Drink and people ready to actually taste something and so to come. Along with eight true uncompromising craft gin made as it used to be made on a corporate still was is a huge leap forward from vodka. Now there were. I believe twelve distilleries making Jim. In Britain at that time primarily on the basis of the SIP Smith legal work. There is now a thousand brands of GIN in Britain. That's here it seems huge until you look at Scotland where I believe. There's a ten two thousand really recognized labels whiskey out of the total of one hundred thousand so Jin used to have at one point about equal standing on the shelf with risky when we started. Walk into a bar. There'd be fifty whiskeys and forge ins and the bartender would immediately CEO. We don't need another Jin. Considering the equal standing that existed back in the day. Do you think there's a risk that people may decide to go for something else. Leave Jin again yeah. Well I think there's always there's always a risk and I think I think what's actually happening today that consumers actually have more of a repertoire of drinks that they drink neurologist. Okay I'm around drinking or a drink actually what you people share even worse. Give it a round that actually in turtle in aggregate drinking and consuming last alcohol. But what they're doing is expanding their range that broadening their mine and trying to get more experiences. What what they drink? And I think that's what six month fits in so perfect because as more people come in they're accepting Jin as part of that said and we tell such a great story. I think people looking for stories exactly the way. So you've been sharing stories as William you've been sharing inspiration as part of your ten th anniversary celebrations. You released a book. It's called tape one hundred gene cocktails only three ingredients. Whatever made Sir Takeaways for of that book this goes back to the fundamentals tolls of creating great drinks? You don't need a load of odd ingredients. You just need the right ingredients in the right proportion Russian and that's what this book is about. It goes beyond just having recipes. It goes into really the fundamentals of what it takes to create a great drink of balancing these ingredients of working them and also of creating personal drinks out of this foundation of primarily great classics. But also some of the new drinks that have come up within the distillery. What kind of evolution has there been when it comes to say Jean Coke folktales? How experimental do these recipes for example? Get oh I would say that you'll find some very experimental drinks in here but you'll find that they are the ones that were very good. Perfection is achieved in the words of Antoine to Sun Tzu Career author of the Little Prince. Perfection is achieved. Not when there's nothing more to add when there's nothing left to take away and that's really what this book is about is finding great drinks and some non in traditional ingredients as a historian of drink of course a lean toward a lot of the traditional as well can make samples. Oh the bee's knees cocktail tale a favorite example. Gin Lemon honey. That's it right now if you look on Wikipedia it says that it was invented by a speakeasy bartender tinder. In the states during prohibition to cover up the taste of bad gin which is what drink writers rate when they don't want to just say I have no clue. The truth. Truth is that drink was invented in Paris in the nineteen twenties in a women's only bar by a widow named Mrs. Jj Jj Brown of Boulder and Paris. It took me while to figure out who she was. It turns out that she was immortalized on Broadway in nineteen sixty and by Hollywood in nineteen sixty four as the unsinkable. Molly Brown married to a poor gold miner and Colorado. WHO's the largest gold vein in history? And then she survived the titanic and was partying on both continents. Amazing amazing stories. Amazing just one of the stories that you'll find in this book. I tell you what I was thinking about. Marcus this book really is for people like me. North jarred he may have been the principal author of it but actually did book is designed for people who can't really make that sophisticated a cocktail. I really can't and so you know this is sort of the Jamie Oliver of the GIN cocktail world weather. So it's really simple. The ingredients never far away from you and you can good at home making it and actually I think these days things do need to be made simple for people use again. I speak very much for me. This book is designed for me in Kapit Guide to making. We'll talk about what people want. And what people need How do you see the future of the industry but what is happening over there? Do people want different. I kind of James. What did they actually want? It vary from one country to another. Will I think it does. I think with globalization nights all come a little bit smaller and say the influences of very prolific Olympic. Do think this I think there's a real danger in the world of Jin. Globally about where it goes from here I think the different names of Jin methodologies Adagios of genetic ingredients that are going into Jin threaten the very fabric of gin and how it is perceived and whether there becomes sort of fatigue in the way some people look at it at the moment. We're not seeing that and actually I think what we're hearing. You know jared and I have the the amazing provisionally travel well talking about listening into retailers and consumers alike who are saying you know juvenile would be a part of my life I. It does get confusing. Can you help me navigate gin and actually we we always bring them back to our classic uncompromising London Dry Gin which is the sort of the base an epicenter of all jains and actually helps tell the story of what a True Chin is and actually I think sometimes the category does and should be simplified. A little bit to really help understand what it is would it really stands for because I think there are some risks there Jin's that are risking people. Go Walk Him on. What is Jin today? And they're all that many rules and regulations around it so there's some self regulation people talking about bringing in. We will never as a brand SIP. Smith ever ever compromise from our original of making gender wage in used to be made and the way it should be made and so I think people will always I hope have faith that in with will be one of those beacons shining lights out that I to help navigate a really exciting category and now zips me this available in about fifty five countries. What kind of future planets do you have? Is it about taking over new markets or digging deeper in the existing once or you know if we had planned to sit down here ten years later and say we wanted to be in fifty countries. We didn't globalization. I think just the way direction the world has gone has taken us. They're smaller and it's easy to get products now being forced reading letting we'd ever thought about being the size that we are all within reach that we are. It's awesome that we are and it's really exciting. I think for us. What we must never do is take off ally of the ball? We've never compromise. Never changed the way we make it even though we've got these really exciting growth plants. I think it's about being deeper more meaningful and establishing shing really distinctive points in people's lives to tell stories of general. We want to inspire people to sit manage in from all walks of life. Seven goals worth the end. Jared Brown of CPS there you are listening to the Menu monocle twenty four.