Johanna, Eliah Foundation, Azzedine Alaya discussed on Dressed: The History of Fashion


Thought johanna shared with us. I mean i don't even know because it was just like one thing after another that she was pulling out of their drawers for us to see one of the things that i really really loved is actually one of their signature. Shapes one of their signature shapes is a balloon shape swiss with a little bit fuller and a little bit plumper than some other fans shapes and the examples that she pulled out had exquisitely hand painted little renderings of cat and dog faeces pets on the fans and those have become such a signature of the house that they actually offer kind of modern day twists on them and their contemporary line as well but the ones that really like were jaw. Dropping to me were a lot of their feather fans Including one which was a flamingo. Feather fan and yes. The feathers were white and pink. Another one where swan feathers and then and we. We also had kind of like within the group that i was with we. I did a little bit of a discussion about the use of feathers and fashion in the fashion trade. And of course we have already done an episode on that called murderous millenary about the use of feathers in millenary or hats but also at this time apply to fans as well and then johanna was telling us a little bit about how certain feathers when they can't be proven where they came from even if their feathers that were harvested far far far in the past that devil was still has in their possession still hasn't their archive they can't use them in their contemporary products. Because all these laws and ethical regulations surrounding the use of feathers in the fans that they still make today and one of the really cool things as she pulled out this box from separate shelf and inside the box for all of these thousands of tiny beautiful blue feathers that apparently were taken from blue jays but even though they have all these thousands of feathers in their possession it is illegal for them to use them in their products but but they still keep them there because it is part of the history of the house. Yeah absolutely on the history of fan making something that was super interesting was there was a fan that had like hundreds of feathers on it and she told us that the bird that supply. These feathers only had three each. So how many birds were killed just to create this one fan Yeah so if you haven't listened to her murder smell episode definitely check it out but of course. This is from the history of the house today. They're still creating wonderful fans and we of course went into their shops. Something that i wanted to say real quick before we talk about their contemporary line is that they created in the nineteenth century and early twentieth century. These animal painted fans so apparently you could commission a fan of your favorite pet. And what's so lovely about these handpainted fans is they did the front and the back of the pet so like the face of a pet and the back of their head which i just found so incredibly charming and lovely. And they've done a version of this and their contemporary line they have hamsters. I think a dog. I want to say it's a sheba. No but i could wrong and then a cat. So a fan and i know a lot of the dress listeners. Who went shopping. Got got those fans because they were superfund. I've got a fan from their contemporary line. Has the is cut out so that you can kind of hold it in. You can hide behind the fan but still see out. Essentially i also got a peekaboo fan and mine is different style than yours. Mine is all black But has little dot cutouts cut are kind of like in this. Minimalistic geometric designs. You can again see through the fan if you're behind it but people can't necessarily see you this lovely gentleman who was running their storefront. He'd only been there. I think a month or two but he gave us the most wonderful tour of their contemporary line. Which i mean fan making is an art form. These fans are still being made by hand and they had they basically range from what we would call a ready to wear fan all the way up to haute couture level like there fans in there were like thousands of dollars and they were works of art. It was absolutely incredible. Yes yes yes so we did. Stop there on the first week of our tour because we actually did two separate trips since they were two groups of what week one and week two and unfortunately because it was august and many parisians go away. All calls are on vacation in august. We weren't able to visit the second week but what we did do on. The second week was equally cool. Yeah we actually went to the oldest haberdashery and paris which who knew so cool. We went to a super cool store. Called ultra mod. Actually has two different storefronts an originally opened as a hat shop in eighteen thirty two and then it expanded to become a haberdashery which is selling small sewing notions in nineteen twenties. So we gotta check out both of those shops april. I think you about some grow green ribbon. They had like vintage ribbon and more contemporary ribbon. It was just really cool experience yet and they were showing us some like really super rare hat making materials as well that were entirely. They look like textiles. They really really look like like. I mean i guess technically it is textiles but but what they were made of straw and you couldn't tell. They looked like they were made of linen or something but You know some of their back stock they have all these really rare and precious items that can be used them sewing or hat making that date back decades and decades and decades. So and it's massive if you need buttons that is your one. Stop shopping you have. We had so much fun and therefore shirt and then actually this is all in the same day. We actually went to the eliah foundation to see an exhibition april. Do you wanna talk about that. Yeah sure so I don't think we've ever really spoken about azzedine alaya too much on the show and we will rectify that hampshire finish my but as eliah basically. He was born in tunisia and nineteen thirty five. You studied art and sculpture growing up and it was very kind of fun story about him. Studying are one of his. Mother's friends was a huge faster niece. Sta and she was a little bit eccentric so in order to help him get into art school earlier than he was actually technically supposed to because there is an age limit. She helped him by lying about his age for him on his application for. But you know he really was this prodigy essentially so while he was studying art and sculpture. He was also working for a dressmaker. Who specialize in making mature copies. So that is ultimately how. He ended up becoming a fashion designer and and throughout his work. You can really see that that art sculpture training how it overlaps into his work. He moved to paris in the nineteen fifties. Initially he was hired for a very brief moment as a taylor for christian dior but then he went on to work under fashion designers gala. Roche and syria moog lower and it was really moog ler who even though he was working for him. He was like look. You need to do your own thing. You are so good and you have such this incredibly unique point of view and your skill you need to launch her own line so he really did that in the late nineteen seventies and just grew and grew and grew in prominence You know all across the eighties. So yeah i mean his. His work is amazing. Unfortunately he passed away in two thousand seventeen but you can go and check out his foundation at the foundation eliah in paris which is located in the marais. And it's in this incredibly beautiful building where it has like this really long. Kind of like atrium. Space and exhibition that we saw actually was pairing of garments and then there's photographic representation that had been shot as fashion photographs by his longtime collaborator. Peter lindbergh so the show is just absolutely beautiful and then they do these shows. There's not like a permanent exhibition or installation per se. There's always like a a new fresh show. That will be coming in.

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