Cassidy Zachary, Fitter Museum, Fashion Institute Of Design And Merchandising discussed on Dressed: The History of Fashion
Of fashion is the production of iheartradio seven billion people in the world. We all have one thing in every day. We all get dressed. Welcome to dressed the history of fashion a podcast that explores the who what when we wear. We are fashion historians and your hosts cassidy zachary an april callaghan. Welcome back dressed listener. I two part two of our discussion of the exhibition and accompanying tour de force. Catalog get your hands on it now. Entitled sporting fashion outdoor girls eighteen hundred to nineteen sixty and originally slated to open in twenty twenty. The exhibition is now on tour in the us and will actually conclude its run at his home institution at the fitter museum at the fashion institute of design and merchandising in los angeles in twenty twenty four so today we welcome back the team responsible for this groundbreaking survey of sports women and the garments and accessories. Outdoor girls have warned for competition and play for more than one hundred and fifty years and encompassing seven hundred objects and ten years in the making a round of applause for kevin jones curator and christina johnson. Associate curator at the f. i. d. m. fit a museum. Welcome back dressed. We jump right back into our discussion with some of our favorite objects and speaking fantastic fines. I simply cannot pass up the opportunity to discuss another ensemble in the subzero style. Section with you. We've of course done an entire episode on driving fashion so it might sound familiar to some of our listeners. There's this fantastic winter ensemble from the nineteen. Ten's this era is one of both my april's favorite periods of fashion history. This outfit is actually rather frightening. We've discussed these motoring ensembles in the past mail. Journalists in particular how to really hard time coming to terms with something that hit women from view and made them so incredibly quote unquote unattractive despite the necessity of these garments. That really covered a woman from head to toe. I'd love if you could describe this ensemble for listeners and talk about the need for quote unquote auto face. Oh we love our nineteen. Ten's winter motoring ensemble. This would have been worn by a lady driver in her new car. And it's this great leather coat. This is on page two to three of the catalog. The leather coat is russian in inspiration russian cossack and it has these great big buttons and loops that are symmetrical in groups of three puffed sleeves. Wide cops of for she has her over boots on. She would have worn shoes or boots underneath these larger warmer boots and this wonderful red fox fur hat and veil but the auto phase is. What really makes the impression you know. The thing is what we think of. Cars is being enclosed today and they were not in the late late late nineteenth century and early twentieth century. Obviously it comes out of the carriage trade industry You know these cars were a lot of the main body was would. it was very heavy. It wasn't like the plastics. We have today or even lighter weight metals and so they were heavy and gonna be engines. You know at the time and it was kind of more like a lawn mower engine in these things so they needed to lighten the cars as much as possible. And so they had you know. Adjustable canvas hoods that would come up not fully enclosed that that you see kind of post world war one so you you are really exposed to the elements and also there was no if it was sweltering outside. You're sweltering in your car if it was freezing inside you're freezing your car in it. Had the enclosed environment where you could control kind of the temperature inside so obviously. This is a woman who is not in the sahara desert. I mean she is like in the middle of montana at forty degree below weather. And i'm sure she's loving that she's got this. Massive photon. that is heavy. And it's because it is completely lined in sheepskin timing the sleeves. Pockets everything the thin. That's kind of a tragedy about it as it was labeled in somebody had the label out so we have this beautiful ass. And that's it that's all we have the labels so we don't know where this was from. We don't never made it but it's about nineteen fourteen. Nine hundred fifteen and not only what you needed Attacked her body from the cold. But also with protect her fashionable garments that she would be wearing where is driving. Because you know she is in an open car so you're kicking up dust and dirt and debris and election and stuff so you know she takes code off and then she'd have her nice pristine outfit underneath. But you would also want to protect your face your skin you know. She's she does have these huge gauntlet gloves on that. Protect her hands and she's got the scarf on to help. Hold the hat on but also to protect her hair keep it clean and give her a little bit more warmth there and just this auto face. It was just another one of those. Many many patents hid fashion elements. That people were trying to invent that. They hope would catch on. That would serve a purpose and most of them went by the wayside. They were not practical or whatever. But i was able to find the patent for the auto face and on the inside. It has the numbers Even how much these things cost and it was this kind of lennon and was called crave netted linen. And i could never find with that word. Meant whatever this process is that they put the linen through that was supposedly to help block. Blizzard wins and so forth from getting through to your complexion and it's fitted with these with these goggles glass insets and it was. It has a nose flap in this mouth guard in it. Kinda just looks like something. Serial killer would wear kind of. Does you know art addressing for photography for this project caroline. Jamerson really helped us with that in so she would test stress pieces to see what needed to be padded out more if we were happy with the original selection of accessories That we were intending to use. And i guess she test this with the auto face one night but she positioned it so it would be the first thing you saw as you entered our storage before the open. The door i the lights on. And i screamed. That was my skimming moment because it is a statement so this.