Cuiaba, Valerie Steele, Spyglass discussed on Dressed: The History of Fashion
Podcasts. Okay, cast before we can talk about the on Cuiaba think we have to address some issues here with the terminology surrounding them to Lutely. There's a few different terms bandied about Muscat in Gina STA which translates to gilded youth Jinjiang meaning young people, and of course on quiet, blah. All of these terms have been historically used to reference this group of two to three thousand refinish hipsters that we're going to speak about. Next. The problem lies in the fact that they're Eddie bitty slight differences in the shades of meaning between some of these terms and they're so slight that are not really going to get into it. It would take up too much time, but I just want to acknowledge that we know that he's slight kissed, but to me, I think the term genetic or gilded youth in on Cuiaba should work best for our purposes moving forward. Absolutely. And the term slightly preceded the term on Craiova which doesn't appear in usage until about seventeen ninety six. And what can we say about these terms? They are wonderfully descriptive. The gilded Hugh and the incredible 's. If you've already seen prints from the era depicting on crab LA, it's likely that this is something you have not forgotten because their style was so outlandish. And so over the top, it has been argued that the intentionally walked the line of being ridiculous. Yeah. And what is this all about? Why I I think the big takeaway here is that both movers and their male counterparts on Koya their manner of dress, March, sort of rebirth or return to fashion, had never really entirely disappeared during the revolution, but but it was kind of static for a period and at the same time, it was frequently wilted as a weapon to antagonize opposing political factions. And while politics does evidence is hand somewhat in on Cuiaba style. Really. It's been interpreted to be more about a return to the freedom of self expression rather than an act of protest in the words of fashion story. In Valerie Steele quote, fashionable young men were released from popular pressure to conform to simple patriotic dress. They wore an exaggerated version of English coats and cravat s- not because they were royalist immigration, but because the style was development from pre revolutionary high fashion and exaggerated. It was. Compared to the trend in men's where during the revolution for a somewhat slovenly, unkempt appearance. The unquote Abbas were accused of being foppish given the diligence that they applied to their appearance on initial inspection. One might get the impression that their air of nonchalance was the result of laziness, but in reality, it was very carefully crafted the English dial coats. Valerie still reference repeatedly are called square coats in period sources. They were a little bit on the longer side hitting a few inches above the knee, but they're defining feature was the way that they distorted the proportions of tailoring. Mainly the crazy wide lapels. They feature role yet. Oh, yeah. These lapels spanned the entire with of the body. They could be black or green and these callers signified their identification with this group. And when combined with short tight waistcoats in fancy patterns, skin type pantaloons and writing boots. Well, I think you can imagine that they cut quite a striking figure and in their excess Sary's where things take a really fun turn. The shirts weren't beneath vest, had exceptionally high callers, and the colors are wrapped in layers and layers of cravat all the way up to the tips of their ears and the fact that their necks were fully in sconces has been interpreted by some as visual allusion to protecting their next from the campaign of the guillotine executions, which had been enacted by the Jackson enemies, and we'll get to this in a bit, but we're definitely not finished discussing their somewhat strange appearance, no, because excess rising all of these aspects that we just mentioned frequently w-. Warned were large gold hoop earrings. So if you think pirates here folks on the right track, are they also had distinctive glasses known as quizzing glasses or alternately Spyglass, which was carried in one's pocket, and that was paired with a thick knotty. Cain, what's interesting to me is that these accessories, they're completely tied into the specific role that this subculture was playing at the moment. Remember at the beginning of episode, I mentioned that there was the draft imposed, you know, given the declaration of war on England, Austria and pressure. Well, this is how it plays out in on quotable style. The wearing of these glasses or the carrying of Spyglass has been characterized as being affectation of poor site which was used by some of the on Quayle those to evade military duty. It's that's interesting. Fashion mercy. We've mentioned him several times on the show. Now he was a real really well known contemporary journalists at the time. He said that the unquote Ahwaz where quote, a breed of men, preoccupied with peering elegant or absurd and who were transformed into women by the sound of drum and quote, yes. In fact, there was lots of chatter during the time about this. There's allegations at this sub culture was nothing, but a bunch of cowardly draft dodgers. And while this may be the case to some extent, as a hold on Kreil can best be described as being comprised of the petite bourgeoisie newly released prisoners and young men of the middle class. So office workers, shopkeepers minor government officials whose positions might have been procured for them. Perhaps to shield them from military servants. We skipped over something, but it's my favorite thing. I have one guest is that you can't wait to talk about their amazing hair as love it so much because you cannot get more hipster than and you really can't. Many of the on cobbles sheared the tops of their heads in this sort of really crazy haphazard. Shoveled manner like pieces were longer in one spot than others, but they left the back and the size of their hair. Long in two queues formed in loose. Ringlets came down over there. Yours and these were known as dog's ears. And then the longer back portion of their hair was frequently twisted up and held into place with hair comb or alternately. It could be plated down the back in berates an style called all of team here in this term, presumably as meant reference the victims of the revolution. So perhaps more specifically those victims of the guillotine. Because it said that this hairstyle that was weren't short at back was maybe in solidarity. I'm not entirely sure, but it was similar to the haircuts given to victims before meeting their monstrous end. So this whole picture just keeps getting crazy. Easier in crazier. Yeah, and not to mention the fact that one of the reasons aside from their fashions that they were called on Kreil was this highly affected manner of speech that they adopted. So they would pepper their conversations with the phrase on my word. That's incredible. And when pronouncing the incredible and French on cla, they dropped the art entirely as they did in general. So they just all got together, I guess just no, no more ours for us. We're just going to skip it. So it was say on COPA? Yes. So now that we have that picture painted, imagine a whole bunch of them together roaming the streets of Paris in search of Jakobsen loyalists to beat the crap out of. And that's part of the reason they carried those thick Nadi canes which they nicknamed they're quote unquote executive power when they use them as weapons. So basically the arm quite were sort of rowdy street gang policing Radha. Eliza and the whole time. I'm just thinking clockwork orange clock. For this reason, sometimes on crab are accused of having royalist sympathies, but it isn't exactly that's simple. Many were patriots to the revolutionary cause, but them innately disagreed with carnage inflicted by the Jacqueline's during the reign of terror. And it probably doesn't hurt that. There is some evidence to suggest that there was sort of an unofficial alliance between the committee of general security branch of the government and the news. So they acted as sort of a private militia and interest talian and the anti Jacob ins, a paper of the period look Republican rights at the time of the enclave quote, hunting, Jackson's, just as wolves used to be hunted in the British Isles. It has even been suggested that perhaps they were secretly paid under the table for this service and that perhaps some of this money was used a fund. They're wild wardrobes. I mean, whatever you have to say about their style. You cannot deny that their jackets are skillfully tailored peculiar, perhaps, but none. Nonetheless, very, skillfully tailored. This is a very deliberate thought out style of dressing for sure. And it seems that people found all in delight and the ludicrousness of the enclave style. Because in seventeen ninety seven artists, Carl Rene published a slightly satirical series of prints depicting on club and movie is, and they were an immediate hit. It is said that even the very subjects of his comedic scaring rushed out to snap them up and many other artists and print makers would follow Inverness. Footsteps poking fun at. There's as while unscrupulous print makers capitalize on the popularity of Verne as prince by simply cupping them, oh yeah, this happened a lot. I've seen so many knockoffs of Arnaiz prints from this period and also following and Carl over nays footsteps with his very own son. Horace Vernay who published his own suite of prints depicting hipster fashions of the Alba's and Murray us between the years of eighteen ten and eighteen eighteen. So if you have ever seen these friends of awkward Obelas and Merv. For us in the past, it's probably more likely that you've seen Horace Vernet as plates, not the eighteenth century versions by his father as these are much, much much more rare just like our subculture which would become increasingly more obscure. As we move into the nineteenth century, what can be considered some of the first examples of anti fashion. The styles invented by the movie is became increasingly co opted by mainstream fashion with the passage of time. And although the silhouette of the skirts became increasingly Alewine, these little white dresses remained the height fashion for almost three decades and they permeate English regency fashion as well and Cuiaba. Well, their legacy lived on us well in the form of their sartorial convictions of the great dandies of the nineteenth century, like boerum Mel and Robert Demonte skew, and we do have an episode on dandyism plugged into our upcoming schedule. So stay tuned for that that does it for us this week until next. Time, we hope you consider incorporating something incredible and marvellous into year wardrobe. Next time you get dressed.