Scott, Armani, Paris discussed on Monocle 24: Section D
I'm interested in ending by talking a little bit about the trajectory of modernism. In general over the course of the existence of your company because you developed your own modernist philosophy and approach to making stuff feel the last twenty years modernism as an aesthetic has gained a degree popular attraction which hasn't had previously. How has your work related to that kind of explosion interest. Well i think that when we started we were all about mixing the principles of modernism. The sort of core principles that people like dita roms and others have talked about. We're very much modernised and believers in those core principles but our take on him was a little bit more warm a little more comforting little bit more comfort and mixing it with craft. We were really big. Proponents of craft in the early two thousand win. The whole sort of explosion craft hadn't really quite happened yet. it was really just being talked about. There was a lot of craft aspects in food at that time. But now we've sort of you fast forward. Almost twenty and the whole idea of the resurgence of craft is kind of everywhere so we've watched that evolution of modernism together with craft really sort of grow and become more and more popular. I think that that's really been the evolution. That mixture of craft with modern principles. I think business central quality to modernism. And i think that it's not based on the novelty Of a stylistic approach even though it gets colder style now. I think that the roots aubert are about the structure and actually the essential elements so pairing things back. And i think that's a very timeless idea. It translates through time. Because as you live and us because it's also designed around functionality. It's not just designed around and aesthetic as you live and use things thailand believe. You're i get tired of them. I think that whole idea timelessness that you can still be inspired by these things and look at some of the furniture that you still have available today. Design was launched sixty odd years ago plus there still is beautiful today and there still is meaningful and still inspire people and i just think that simplicity just is really really important and then as we combine that with natural materials and people always have a connection to natural materials so there's always a fascination with that and there's also obviously a timelessness around that is the beauty of any kind of detail you get you get from the material whether it's grain of the wood or the banning of a marble or the weeding of kane. I think that's why that modernism has been with us for such a long time. And i don't think it's gonna go away anytime soon. Obviously that wars craig. Bascom and scott fellows there in conversation with a new york correspondent. Henry reese sheridan. The exhibition carve curve. Kane is currently on at eighty two franklin street in new york until the twenty seventh of august. Paris fashion week recently took over the french capital and a number of brands returned to the runway debuting their collections for spring summit. Twenty twenty two with live showcases joining me to reflect on some highlights from the event which wrapped up last week is fashion journalist and regular monaco. Twenty contributor dana thomas dana. How are things in paris at the moment. Well it's been very rainy. Which makes it kind of difficult to get around and the traffic is back. It's epic traffic. So whenever we go anywhere in town. Now we're back on our bicycles and trying to dodge the raindrops. But it's really wonderful. Be back in paris and see paris opening up an alive. I was riding my bicycle through the maui the other evening and just seeing all these particularly young people who've blossomed. They're like tulips opening and springtime out in the streets dressed sue fantastic and just walking with purpose to their social engagements and the cafes are full in the terraces are full and you can hear parties and you don't mind. That sounds absolutely amazing. I'm feeling like a lot of a lot of europe is getting back to that point. Which is which is so lovely. So we're talking about a fashion week in paris before we got on. I was talking to you about milan. And it's been a bit of a tentative start in terms of shows. Not so many brands are getting back to live shows but few are. I think there was any three in milan. But i believe that was six in paris. What happened in terms of physical shows and then digital shows. They were handful in paris and the ones that were on. You know. we're the ones you want to be on the last show i went to. Before lockdown was dior womenswear at the plus concord. And the first one back is dior. Menswear at the place. La concorde and it was just great. It was a partnership with travis. Scott the rapper and it just was alive of course. The music was fantastic. He did a hold soundtrack himself and included a new cut of music. That was really really happening. Going to the shows was like going to a rave in person and online. There was great music a lot of color. We've been dressing down because we've been home in wearing. You know muted colors soft close and baggy clothes and trying to nestle and swath ourselves to get through this period and now we're back out and like i said those kids in the street that i saw on their way to parties and social engagements the shows were just all about embracing hedonism again and we saw that particularly. The husband is just incredible. Footage of travis scott kind of be mobbed by fans is this just you know in line with with the mood of everyone right now. Everyone that's lucky enough to be in this position where we all getting back out into the world. You think fashion designers are really channeling this making something exciting from it. Obviously you know. It's great to celebrate this but the craft of defining a collection with a sense of celebration is not easily done right. No it's not. in fact you know. They had an impromptu street. Mosh pit in front of the tent where they had their show a dior. It was just you know enthusiasm. I guess is the word that you you want to apply to the close the energy the everything and some retro looks you know. There were flared pants. There's psychedelic influences. There's sun bleached pastels acid colors some graffiti and big names and words blasted onto outfits. Lots of neon. It's just like somebody turned the lights back on. It's just great. And i'd love to hone in a little bit on the business side of things because there is a reason why these shows do need to happen in person. You know it is a lot about buyers coming and seeing what. They're actually going to be selling into shops. And it has been difficult for a lot of people it seems from reading up on the power event. The big french names the ones that did exhibit and have physical shows us saying you know there's a real business case to this. We can't do everything online. You know we need to satisfy by as across europe because it's only europeans that can go to these events at the moment but obviously the rest of the world to follow soon. So can you take us through that side of things. Why these big french houses saying so important to have a physical show. Well it's not just the french houses. Even mr armani said you know it's really because you know it's important for the city for him to have a a show in milan. he's you know. The hotels or half full storefronts are vacant and the paris. There are a lot of places that are empty that businesses. That just didn't make it through.