Mona Von Bismarck, Balenciaga, Domna Gavia discussed on Monocle 24: The Globalist


Dana can warn. It's good to have you with us. We're going to talk to you over the next few minutes and we begin with balance yoga. Tell us what's happening. Well balenciaga closed his house fifty three years ago because he said there was no need for couture anymore and his most famous client mona von bismarck. Who would buy sixty seventy pieces. Each season took to her bed in capri for three days in warning but now. The owners of balenciaga caring reopened the kosher division with its designer. Domna gavia salvia and and they rift on what he rift on. What balenciaga used to do this sort of monkfish close in in extraordinary volumes a real sculpture of fashion but made it incredibly modern not necessarily wearable but very interesting laboratory in a sense for what the the ready to wear. We'll become How exciting a moment is this now. Oh it was thrilling. Had the show in the old salons and he took vintage pictures of of of the salons. Recreate them as best. He could including stains on the carpeting and they were just glorious. It was it was really trying to sort of link that time in the late sixties when the women the very thin social rays we come to his shows. Bunny mellon and mona von bismarck. And babe paley and gloria guinness and just sort of say you know the the clock stopped then and we've started again and sort of never mind the fifty three years the half a century between. Let's just carry on where we left off but in a modern way it was really cool. He did things like a sack dress. But it became. The which is a signature was invented by mr valencia. But he turned it into a sack jacket with a portrait collar and pucci silt shoulders at slurped. Like you've just shrugged it off. And he made you worked with denham as it as if it were a precious fabric and it was because it was woven on ancient looms in japan out of the finest cotton natural indigo glorious. I'm you know the the culture of quibbling of denim it sounds wonderful and it sounds There's there's a widespread celebration of the return return of cures. And i mean we saw it all over the red carpet at can and it was just glorious to see. Just pure joy everywhere. A dream and the biggest dream of course was was valentino. Valentino took over about a week after. Everybody else showed him paris. Valentino took over. A big hall are sinale at the the venezuelan ali and put on a show where he that he worked on for a year which is very couture because of course we couldn't do anything for year and he worked with seventeen artists and really got into their heads on how they create art and then tried to work that into the culture now. He's the first to say that fashion isn't art. He says you know. Fashion has to be practical while art is is an end in itself but yet he didn't just like riff on the art. Like salar all used to do matisse jackets with embroidery of or van gogh lillies embroider van gogh sunflowers embroidered on jackets. He really tried to get into their minds of how they create and he did collage coats with seventeen one hundred fifty different kinds of fabrics and embellishments. And he did these voluminous like volumes of fabric. Ballgowns it just swept down the runway a bit like a king and i. He worked with the milliner philip tracy. Who's based in london. Who created these hats. That look like cnn you know. These ostrich feather that floated with the women down the runway. and he he just. He's colors he's the best color said salar on. He worked with like an zil a poppy red mint bottle green a frog green fuchsia purple. Like a really true purple and mix them all together in a way that was just. It just took your breath away. Finally very briefly. We have a wonderful new introduction. Though with the with the introduction of the first black american to disrupt french pitcher yes. There was an american designer. Who disrupted ready-to-wear eons ago. Patrick kelly philadelphia back. When i started my career in the late eighties but now finally. There's a black american could sure kirby raid kirby g raymond of the company pyre moss and he showed in new york at the home of madame cj walker. Who was a child of slaves who became a beauty mogul and the first female self made millionaire in the united states and she bought this beautiful villa played estate upstate new york and he had the show there. And it was a real meditation on all fabulous inventions by black americans. That people don't realize we're by black americans and it looks a little cost to me. I mean there was somebody who came out in a peanut butter jar. And because you know washington carver george. Washington carver was pena. Pioneer and there was somebody who had a typewriter as a cover band cummerbund but that was because the typewriter was invented by a black american tape titled the show. What it is dana. And that's what it is dana. Thank you so much for joining us. Here at the monocle. Twenty four and in our final minutes today. We head to the museum of fine out in boston. They believe there's one object that is threaded itself through national life in the united states since the birth of the republic and that is a simple quilt. Let's hear from the curator of textiles at the arts at the museum. Jennifer swope a museum.

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