Thermidor, Napoleon Bonaparte, John Lemberg discussed on Dressed: The History of Fashion
So waistline still hit just below the bus. But the shimmy Scouse of survey is they owed more inspiration to the Greek titan than that of the Chamisa undergarment. And this was all part and parcel to the lions between revolutionary republicanism of the eighteenth century and the origins of democracy in the ancient world and to see this, we can look no further than to the work of are now familiar friend of eat. So just who were these women who dared to bear as no Frenchwomen had ever done before. They were young, they were vivacious and many of them were demimondaine 's translating to has world the Demi Monde was realm inhabited by performers artists and breathtakingly beautiful courtesans not entirely accepted into society. Proper demimondaine were often mistresses very rich and powerful men and as such, they had a little bit of sway and death. Knowledge of class lifestyle, but historically view demimondaine ever be accepted into the rank and file of high society. However, that would all change with the revolutionary thrust for democracy because appearance of the shockingly daring Merv us style as mentioned earlier, appears first in portrait's by divide, but also those in his artistic circle and that's happening around seventeen ninety six seventeen ninety seven. So that means that this style coincides with the end of the revolution and the earliest phases of the directory when yet another system of government was put in to replace. So we don't really have time to go into the details of this new government. But let's just say that the directory or the Directoire with last approximately five years before Napoleon Bonaparte seize control of the nation. The fact that we see the emergence of this neoclassical style of dressed, I in the portraiture of Davied makes perfect sense. If you consider the fact that these all tra- hip actresses and quarter. John's frequently ran and artistic circles and they also worked as artists models. The look was almost certainly born out of the fact that many of the Murray is themselves creatives. They were looking for an alternative to the strife surrounding mainstream fashions at the time which consisted of pairing of short crop jacket with a skirt or that Chamisa goal that we just mentioned. You know, the white muslin or linen gal, long sleeves and ruffles at the next cuffs, but fashion for a period of several years really had been an a form of stasis. It was a little bit static and what happens with the Murphy us is they use the popularity of these previous muslin dresses and reinvented them as entirely new as an anti fashion that defined their subculture. The marvelous ones were inventive, daring, and pushed fashion into a new direction. In fact history, the most successful, my Danes were frequently the most fashioned for. Women in France, they lacked the strictures of high society, so they were free to take risks and way that the gentry just was not. And that's not to say that some of these women did not rise social celebrity in the waning years of the revolution with class strictures. Now, more fluid, there was a bit more leeway for transcending the strict social barriers of the past. However, arguably the most famous movie us did not need to concern herself with issues of class. She was already fabulously wealthy aristocrat by marriage. We speak of tussock Kabiru known affectionately as Our Lady of thermidor took splaine Theresa earned her nickname. Perhaps we should take a side note and discuss the revolutionary calendar. Thermidor was the eleventh month and the French Republic calendar, what you and I in April, referred to as July anyone else confused yet. Yeah, it is confusing. I frequently even though I know all these things I have to look at the chart like me. What actually. During the revolution when the government banned religion, they also did away with the Gregorian calendar because the Gregorian calendar was based on the life and death of the Christ figure in its place. They renamed all the months messed with how many days were in a month and basically reset the calendar year back to one. So Rubas Pierre and the Jackman party were overthrown in July seventeen. Ninety four. And this shift in power is known as the thermidor reaction. Thermidor equals July. Okay. It's all making sense now because this is how are her win earned her title. Our Lady of thermidor because she championed the petitions of hundreds of prisoners that were thrown into jail by the Jacksons after all she herself had been a prisoner. And for a few different reasons, she even held the political sway to come to their aid. It brochure is such an incredible figure from this period. I don't think anyone is going to mind if we take a brief sidebar to maybe learn a little bit more about her. This course, let's do it. Was born in seventeen seventy three amid drid to a family. Very wealthy bankers in documents suggest that she was educated in France by nuns before she was married off at the age of fourteen or not even going to touch on that. But through her marriage, she became very wealthy marquee. Partially the money that was combined in the merge was hers. Partially, it was his and they married in seventeen eighty eight. So only just a few months before the revolution broke out and when it did her home ended up being the destination for powerful, but more moderate leaders of the revolution. The marriage was unhappy on both ends, sadly, and it is said that just about any man that came across her path, including her brother and her uncle, but fell in love with teenage Theresa, get hurt. Her uncle actually tried to marry her. And maybe one of the reasons for all of this attention that she was receiving is because she is has been described as being exceptionally beautiful. One of marie-antoinette's former ladies and waiting described her has quote, no human being has left the creators hand. So beautiful here on reportedly. She had many ways owns with while position suitors, including after her husband fled France, and they divorced John lemberg tell ya in the politician, largely responsible for overthrowing Robespierre and affectively ending the reign of terror, and it's through her relationship with Hallion whom she briefly married that she petitioned the plights of many people who are imperilled during the reign of terror, so prisoners and also aristocrats who had had their property confiscated perseus. You tell ya, Andrew, the IRA of rubes peer through her in prison, which is where she met her friend Josephine Bo Hernandez, who would soon become the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte and to. Basically, both of them were released shortly after the execution of Robespierre and they would go on to become leaders of French salon society as it reestablished it self after the revolution along with their other friend Juliet, RIC they were the sprinkling it girls of the Aira. They were beautiful. They were witty. They were young, they were charming three appeared in public together. They were fictionally coined, quote, the three graces there. Adoption of the classically inspired chemises gown spread. The renown of the movie is style taking this once antifascist statement into the mainstream. So it now seems cast that fashion has been reborn anew in teed and relaxed and fresh. No other portrait sums up the anti fashions of the movie is better than the unfinished portrait of Juliette recommend by davita. So she reclines on Hsieh's Lange, looking to the viewer over her shoulder, her white gown as a slip of thing with. Tight bodice has transparent cap sleeves and a waste that hits just below the bust from which a skirt falls in an uninterrupted column that pulls on the floor and her feet are bare, and her golden hair is cropped short into tight curls of about three inches, and they're held back by agreession style headband. The overall effect of this painting and her look is ease and relaxation, which is really a stark contrast to the stiff artifice of porta chur of previous decades. There's really something fresh, something new and above all something very natural in this look of the movie is that new classical look. Cultivate bid by the movie was underscored by their choice of accessories. So most commonly, this was a fine Kashmir shawl which mimicked the look of a stola a show that was worn by Roman women during integrity and the white dresses of the seventeen ninety s where the perfect foil for brightly colored an intricately pattern shawls woven from fine wool. And we actually aired an episode on the shell. A couple of months back. So tune into our Kashmir with a k episode to learn more about the contentious and controversial history of these shawls all of this. They paired with flat slippers. Something akin to Ballet's Lipper with ribbons at tied up the leg, and they wore flesh colored knit stockings with elaborate clocked designs at the ankles. The Murphy of look was simple, but yet it was deceptively expensive and artificial because these neoclassical styles found a mini inspirations in the natural qualities espoused by enlightenment philosophy on one hand. But rather, ironically, perhaps they were also possessed a certain amount of artifice which we know fashion loves. And I can think of no greater example of this than the fashion for blonde wigs, Sebastian mercy tells us some women bought these wigs like shoes, so they owned up to forty, plays the air. Poke fun at the trend chastising women for going into debt purchase the latest fad. Even only a couple of years after the reign of terror, we see the pace of fashion ramping up. Once again, it's ready to go yet and speaking of hairstyles, it would be the hairstyles endorsed by their male counterparts the on Cuiaba that were one of the most radical aspects of their look. And we're going to learn more about this after a short word from our sponsors. Hi, I'm Alison green and I'm the host of the ASCA manager podcast where I answered questions from listeners about how to navigate all sorts of sticky situations at work from what to say to worker who smells to how to deal with an overly critical boss to how to handle someone who takes credit for your work each week on the show, we'll talk through and hopefully solve your toughest must frustrating or just plain weirdest work predicaments you can subscribe to the show on apple podcasts or wherever you get your podcasts.