Philippines, Hugh, Charlie Chaplin discussed on Good Food
It's good to thank Charlie Chaplin. The man who built the place for his forethought, and creating good restaurant juju inside you. I run the gauntlet of a magical pastry case fill cake, stands at boards all Laden with black sesame croissants Rioch tarts morning buns. Canelas and more. There is always always a cream pie. Margarita mask is the woman behind the successful. Daytime cafe and the incredible desserts on the dinner menu. She shares the recipes in a new book called baking at rep who bleak. Welcome yankee. Thanks for having me. So many eaters are going to be thrilled with this book. When of your place, I just think of the line, and it isn't that there's that many people waiting to get in. It's that it takes that long for people to make decisions about what they're going to choose from the case. Yeah, it's tough. Choices. You're so interesting. You claim that you're not like other pastry? Chefs yet your once again at James spirit semi finalist for outstanding pastry chefs to share share with your audience a bit about your culinary training. And getting your start in the kitchen at age seven age seven my gosh that was such a long time ago. My parents own restaurant, this is in the Philippines, Philippines, here and my sister. And I started really working in this little tiny restaurant that my mother owned, and it was a typical Filipino restaurant that you would call to tour. It translates literally two point point, you know, you point to the food that you want it's all prepared in advance. They put it in a bowl with couples groups of race and off you go, and I was behind that counter. Hugh, created another counter. What were these people thinking when they would see a seven year old kid behind the counter, you know, that's where it started in that. I think it's just my parents who kind of cultivated this love for cooking love for being in the restaurant business for being in the kitchen, and it just grew. They pushed me to go to culinary school. And they pushed me to go to the United States. And studied, you know, further at TI, you know, it just grew and grew in it just felt really natural for me to be in the kitchen. I can't imagine doing anything else. How did you in Walter meet? He was to chef at patina, and I played for an extra ship there. And that's where we first met action. I love that man. In the kitchen. I'm your food is simultaneously highly technical, but very comfort. Eating and very approachable. Even when you're using unusual flavors. Can you talk a bit about some of your basic principles of baking am not a trained peace tree? Chef and maybe that. When I bake a still feel like I think like a cook. Where sometimes I'm mad at myself for not measuring stuff or rating down stuff and being like, really like to the the teaspoon or whatever. And then next time I wanna make it. I'm gonna go shoot. How much did I put it again last time or or my staff is really mad at me for not rating it down and all that. But yeah, I mean, I always want whatever fruit or flavor. I want to emphasize like be not not be masked too much with too many other things when I look at the case a lot of times, I see that mine like a savory cook. Where you have a few basic components, Mike basic does. And then you choose various ways to use them. So let's start with brioche. You seem to have a very intense relationship. It's pretty intense. Yeah. You could say. That you'd love it. I love it. I mean, I think it's such a versatile dough, and you could do anything and everything with it. And like you said I use it in so many different applications savory sweet we make brioche about four times a week each batch would probably be one hundred pounds. It's a lot in the case we have about I don't know. I would see ten to fifteen items that are just fade with this dough. But you can't really see it. You know, what I mean, you you you might not think that that's brioche. But it is. So the boom baloney are they brioche brioche dough in its Rio. We have those brioche tarts with fruit on it and pastry cream, that's brioche. I mean, there's just so many different kinds in the book. There are photographs of technique, and there's one image of you with your fingers in the brioche dough pulling up on a very sticky so touch us a bit about the technique, and what it takes to make a really good though starts with ingredients. So we use, you know, high quality butter eighty two percent, the exit user, organic that's the start for sure for me at least making brioche gives me such Choi because he see it from like different ingredients to like one though that looks really ugly like the first two minutes, and then towards the end, it's just this really supple smooth. You know, elastic dough. Oh and towards the end of mixing if you've made it, right? You pick up the dough. And you can stretch it, and you can just see through it. Like, I could probably see you through that though. And that's when you know. Okay. This story is great. So that the gluten has become fully developed for even in the face of all of that fat. Yes. I love it. It's really awesome to hear that slapping sound towards the end. And you know, okay. That it's getting there. It's getting there you mix some more in in the end, it's just shiny smooth from beginning to end. It's just completely different. I love that you still love it so much in the face of four hundred pounds of a wing nights Crees. So let's talk buco pie. You know that we have to talk about cash. Your version at sorry. Sorry in the Grand Central market is just is probably my peak pike experience of my life. Really? Wow. That's because there's something about eating it where it hits your brain in sweet and save replaces and the texture is so varied an unusual that your brain kind of explain. Combing in Tacoma and wet traditions surrounded in the Philippines. Buco it just translates to young coconut. So as you know Philippines being tropical. There's tons of coconut everywhere. There's this town like maybe an hour and a half away from Manila. And that's what they're known for this buco by and you go there, and you gotta have you got to bring back a pie. So that's where you know. It's from that's the inspiration for this by my sister. And I kind of like develop this, and you know, taking that inspiration something Filipino elevating it and putting her twist on it is great. And it's great that people not only Filipinos welcome in and. Delicious. So why would that really, you know, that's that's awesome. That that makes me so happy to hear you say that we'll for me part of the surprise was. I'm very much a fruit pie person. I never really loved cream pies. Until I tasted that pile. Every time I come to Republic. No matter what I get. I always get a slice of whatever cream pious there because I find it fascinating. How beautiful you execute something that so many people make badly. I hate to say that's true. I've had so many versions so many banana passion fruit touch me a little bit about how you make such a a masterful cream filling we make a pastry cream. So that's standard. It kind of like brioche pastry cream is just in every other pastry. I make love it. We make a pastry cream, although this pastry cream for pies, we thicken it with a little gelatin because the regular pastry cream. Just kind of like, it's too runny. It's to ready for by when you cut it just runs in a big mess. So yeah, we think in the peace you cream with a little gelatin, and yet depending on what we feel like we like right now, it's passion fruit. We make passion food curd the passion food Curtis. Delicious has a ton of butter. And I know it just a peace agreement of passion fruit together the game not being too sweet. And into passion food having a little bit of tartness, and then topping it off with that vanilla cream. I think is you know, it kind of balances all of it out. You also make an incredibly delicious version of a quote toaster pie. Toaster by a hand pie. What I find really interesting is how you construct it. So you start out with individual little rectangles. But then you top them. So one of my sous-chef has developed this system where she makes it like ravioli, but it's obviously rectangles we just have one big sheet of pet present day, and it's just laid out on the table. And we like score it into like little rectangles. And we put the filling in the center of each rectangle. We talked the whole thing with another sheet of pet busy and just kind of. You're making it. Group all around the. Yeah, we cut it into rectangles. And then we crimp it individually. So what's the best is easiest desert to make a gosh. I would say a crisp every time somebody comes to my house, and I need to make a really quick dessert. That's the first thing that comes to mind. And I think it's something that almost everybody loves in. All you all you need is as scream and that and this hurt is good. Yeah. Well, thank you for making me, and my mom. It was one of my mom's favorite places. Oh, that's go. And it was the last place. We went out. I got her a flight of the donuts at the boom baloney. I have a picture for eating them. She's so happy, and the cookbook is lovely being Hugh. That's Margarita Manzke acclaim Baker and co owner of Republique and sari sari store in Grand.