A highlight from In the Dirt: Question and Answer Part 2


Ride to give it a try today with that said. Let's jump into part. Two of the qna episode with randall. Next question on optimizing the adjustment in float intention on spd panels. I don't think there's much we can add there because it's a little bit of trial and error in my opinion. I don't know about the float. Don't even know if mine has like float adjustment for me. It seems like it's just the tension. So i how hard or easy it is to get in and out and that's been something. Maybe i've amped up over time as i've become more confident but certainly starting out with them fairly easy to. Disengage is perfectly acceptable. Like if you're not comfortable with clifton writing and in terms of tension i would definitely start with A loser engagement. And then tighten it down as you get more confident especially when you're first starting out and what else. Patrick and i actually talked about this in the bike episode recommending shifting. The cleats back. So if you're running mountain style shoes which were the gravel bike. Probably should be if you can run them in the back of the bolts the back then sliding the clete pretty much all the way to the back now. If that doesn't feel right you can always move it forward a little bit but whereas this new real problem with going too far back there can be issues with going too far forward in terms of a bio mechanics salon and in terms of the float. You wanna be in the middle of afloat and you never wanna be in a position. Where the you're you're not able to peddle in a natural motion using the cleats positioning to restrict your motion. That is a good way to end up with an injury. So definitely don't do that. I generally will start with the cleats in a position where it's restricting my inward motion so that my heel can't hit the crank arm and then i'll pedal from there and see my in the middle middle of flowed immi- restricted any part of the pedal stroke. not then that's a good starting point but to really get this right again. It is hard to do this on your own. It's hard to see new tracking. Insoles are thing you want to invest in order to help align the full stack from hip to knee through the ankle. And this is where listened to the bike fit one episode and consider working with a bike fitter. I was just going to say the same thing. It's like one of those things like oh bike fit. You don't necessarily go to clean adjustment but so often. When i observed it clear judgment happens in a bike fit. It doesn't happen. I write everything else has to be right. I so if you're saddles too low and your arches or collapsing and things like that. You're already starting things out of alignment and are going to have some trouble but at least the advice that that i just gave will prevent the worst issues but again go get a bike fit. Yup listen the next. The next question was about. What's the best technique for using a drop or post. How does this help with the physics of the ride. I'll let you go i. I certainly have an opinion on this one. This is a dangerous one for us. The listener the avid lewis and her nose we can go into a deep dropper post wormhole. Let's try to offer some quick advice one of the things. I'd like to remind people about with respect to drop her posts is that it's not just a all the way up or all the way down products you've got the full spectrum of range which means you should use it frequently. Obviously when you're in in heavy technical descents with steep descent you're gonna slam it. But i quite frequently lower. It's just a centimeter to just give myself a little bit more room on terrain. Maybe it's a road to sand or something that i'm super confident on but it gives me a little bit more margin for error and as i'm feeling maybe more nervous about speed i'll go down even further just to give myself again a bigger range of just a bigger margin of error so practice and no. There's no right or wrong.

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