Milan, Syria and Italy discussed on Monocle 24: The Big Interview


Market. We have to depend on the Milan market. We can't just depend on the British full season what we've be quite limited and frost anywhere that. So that is, is someone they're picking for you or their or their suppliers who just know that they will send you some. Okay. I go to two or three times a year. Go to the market, talk to the person who chooses, but we use notorious credentials. We have people who we can trust and they note. So the boxes come in, they call up and they say, we have, you know, yellow peppers, just coming in or the small peas or. The well, actually by English peas as well. You know, which is exciting, wonderful. But we have ingredients that come in from the market they're brought in, and then we may have somebody checks every box Suri morning and the head chef is there and they will come with say, do you want to take these broad beans? Look, the big are and they are more flowery and we'll say, yeah, because we can use them something else that we could make soup out of or no, send them back. And then we take beans the menu. People come to the river caffeine say sometimes in January I want this is an Italian restaurant was my tomato salad ago. Sorry or people's eight here last week. And I had we've had real problems getting squid the moment, the change the menu twice a day. So right now I'm working tonight and I'll go in three and I know what's on that. I will have three fishing Mimi nine one of them three last month. We couldn't fish C best because the good old you, you know, European Union said it's not sustainable, and there was a ban. On seabed. So which I liked bring them on, bring on those rules for them. So it's changing all the time. So is, is there a truck once every two weeks or once a week that comes from eleven or much more often? I think it comes to three times a week. Yeah. And is that incredible that here we're talking about a world famous Mark that exist in Milan and also all the great things and open market brings you as well to imagine it. Suddenly that those trucks can't come two or three times or they will. They will still come, but there will be potentially tariffs on them. And I think this moment of lack of leadership, but also this moment of indecision that we sit in is quite remarkable. I've had really. I mean, I. Yep has been crucial and with our ingredients with our links to Italy. And as I said, I don't want to make this indicates the you, the rules they have on health and hygiene are great. You know, I've really people say, oh, it's pure Crecy, and they do all these terrible things for me in my business, it's been really positive. Ruth roaches there in conversation with Tyler. From the river cafes talion dishes. We had seamlessly to another famous restaurant serving up Italian delicacies, Austria, Francis. Connor I spoke to the three Michelin starred chef art enthusiast and social entrepreneur. Massimo mature also named the best chef in the world more than once from him. We learned once you have the best ingredients, how to experience food as art as an opera, almost he started by explaining how he manages to reconcile Italian culinary tradition with delivering innovation lands. I was talking with Rene, and I said, I think it was more challenging for me to try to innovate Italian cuisine than for you to create a northern Zine, you know, because you know they don't. They didn't. They didn't have not. We were discussing about that because they didn't have anything. You know, you're the people. They were like, why do we have to spend time around the. Table? They didn't get it before, but for me to just to break all tradition. Like I way way, no, when he breaks vase. And you know two thousand years old vase and says, I'm not defending my best. I'm breaking my bass to build a new tradition filter by contemporary. Mine is exactly what I do. I look at the passing critic way not in static way always and I get the best from the past into the future. If I big pan of lasagna as a kid, I know that the best part of their lasagna's the crunchy part, the rest is for adults to eat and get fat. But the crunchy part is just a motion, pure emotions. If you have a hoops I dropped lemon tart is is a way to play with imperfection, but the the flavors are Capers bergamot lemon almond from from not old pun Telleria and collaborate. You know, the the range of flavor of south of Italy, the most amazing product you can have. You know, you can squeeze the lemon in your palate and you feel is is sweet. You the need sugar on when when you prepare by Yonah with that. So that's the point is like, is to represent the metaphor for south of Italy as a broken place. But when you walk in temple value, swimming, Capri, you just, you know, are in the best place in the world. So forget about, you know, everything else, you know and is exactly what we do in Syria. We try to to serve emotion people. They done get crazy to get a reservation Nassiri Francis gonna you know, to eat food, good food. You know, you can eat in in any toria anywhere. You come there to experience from the moment. You make a reservation so out the answer to you, they help you find the right way specially for people. They want to spend the weekend there to find the right place for permits Donal to taste the best bus. Having been there. Directly from from the barrels you know, leave this kind of experience that are unique. And then after at the end of this weekend, you have the experience, those RIA. So since this, you know, it's it's very important to live this kind of of experience as an opera because the the tasting menu at the end is Bill Daikin opera and all you have another to the things that they're telling you what to expect, you taste it, you realize you, you start analyzing that, and then you have the dodger really slow and then their league rotted. And then the main window and then the graph knowledge. So you have end the grand finale you have everything, and then thank you at the end. You know the way you say, thank you to people and have welcome, and thank you is like there are two incredible words and in the middle upper. So you can to a stereo to leave this kind of experience. And you know the people are when we rebuild the restaurant, two thousand twelve. I left the room like that. We try pull the space for for ourself kitchen and prep and bakery, and the seller, and but we laugh twelve stable because I had the opportunity to go out and talk with with all my my gas, they come from all over the world. This kind of experience is very, very important because Syria is not about business. We are fifty people for twenty eight cover, so it's not about that. It's about emotion. We. Compress into edible bites our passion music monk Parker Ali, Billie holiday that was Maso Tura move from him later. Now, chefs are not a homogeneous species. Our next guest, the Kirk and register Bill Granger takes quite different approach far from baterias experience countering Italian, dinas, nostalgia, and sometimes conservatism about food grain. Jay explains how the culinary coach in his native AUstralia has long been shaped by global influences and Weber Toro was the maestro conducting a concerto. Grainger explains why he considered himself Mora cook than a chef. And I think Chevy ships breaking the rules and it's very much personal off foam, and it's it's really unchecked criteria. I think which is fantastic. So you people, you know, the top restaurants, top people, you know whether it's a, you know, no Merle. What Heston does. It's really about creative expression and people catch up to it and it's not necessary giving them. I know they want. It's giving them something they've never even seen before. Whereas what I do is quite different, I think you know, when you say that these probably the difference. Yeah, cook and I and the sheriff cook really cook to make people happy knowing what they like anticipating what they like and giving it to them. Whereas I think a Schiff really does something to push them into surprise people. Now we've mentioned briefly, this idea that you will Paul into cooking was maybe slightly alternative. It wasn't the training under another chef, this sort of thing. Did your learning? Did it help your culinary learning in a sense he studied architecture briefly to to school, of course, what was happening in your head? Do you find the of integrated some of those disciplines into into food in a way? Yeah. I mean, I think all the creative areas equipment related, I think you know the credit. If you're enjoy the credit world net can be creating a self. It can be working with credit people and helping produce swat thighs. Credit people do. I think if you enjoy that and there's a certain with credit whic de. Definitely a less direct path. Got to be a lot more Ganic. It'd be more flexible and a little bit less. Yeah, focused on result. You go to allow that credit process to happen. So I think my grand I, you know, with school, I wasn't bad at school, but I was never walled academic where I felt it was obvious to go into an academic career. So for while I thought oxygen show was going to be it and I really worked loved interiors and buildings. I thought it was a good place for me. I, you know, although I'm parents reminded me when I was younger, I wanted to do Heito management. So I think the food thing was always air that idea of hospitality. And then I changed throughout school because I found that a little bit structured and a little bit definite thinking non three Hajjah what you wanna do. I mean, I think anyone does. And so let's me the time just to be really and to not have a direct thing to do about from, you know, creating different works. All learning different techniques had nothing to do one is to in the end, but it just got me time to think. And I think the great thing about school teaches you and gives you time to think which I think the education. Doesn't necessarily always to go to talk about the UK you're in London, live in your family. Are your kids, for example, as I little Londoners and if you feel about that, they global, I think the world now there's a whole lot of us that a working globally, and I think a lot of it's to do with technology that it's as easy to Scott. We always say PayPal, where your conference calls really hard with the are now. It said everyday thing a mouse come

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