Pete Wells, Antony Antony, New York Times discussed on 1A
Dishes are things that you guys really loved. That are like quintessential MOMS merrill cheese like Mac and cheese is something that can actually be so personal and figuring out remi's way of doing it and being able to do that for maybe like a nice Sunday family meal. Well Helen Rosner you've written about Antony Antony it seems to fuse the cultural criticism of of Food and food writing. What did you WanNa convey when you were writing about this this Food and wine expert. WHO GOES ON TV? Well you know Queer is now I think fourth season they've gone through them pretty quickly And when I wrote this piece the first season had just been released on Netflix and I think we were all sort of trying to figure out. What is this new season of queer eye? They dropped the for the straight guy because now they're working with people who are trans ends are working with people who are gay they work with women and Anthony was an interesting figure and very quickly came under fire for preparing what the the viewership of the show and sort of the Internet at large perceived to be almost comically simple foods and there were a lot of like Ken. Antony Cook like is this all just nothingness. Is this a stage like he's this incredibly handsome man and he's showing when people recipes that you know I think that from from some perceptions diverge on the remedial and what I was really interested in what I find really entertaining about the dialogue I along and also really profound about the show Is that. It's not a show about fancy home cooking. It's not a show that's like hey you already have like B. Plus home cooking skills. Let me show you how to turn every night into a dinner party. The premise of queer eye is that the people who are being made over couldn't use. WHO's a sort of infusion of aesthetic consideration in virtually every facet of their lives and so Antony was going in insuring people pretty simple recipes to make MAC and cheese how to make a Guacamole At the same time it is the case you know. He was making really really simple foods so I thought it was. I don't know in in the piece that I wrote. I was trying to take the perspective that like. Obviously he can cook. It seemed like a very silly accusation to sling that he he can't cook. And I think what that wound up revealing to me was much more about what we as a sort of broad culture think about what cooking is and cooking as a moral virtue two and cooking and as as an aesthetic virtue He's obviously in front of a stove making dinner. But who are you. If you say you're a food expert and what you have to perform perform in order to perform your expertise and Antony wasn't hitting some kind of standard that I think a lot of people were looking for in terms of performing your expertise because the nature of the show was that it was sort of entry level cooking. We'll Helen. You mentioned You mentioned a food famous. Food critic. Pete Wells from the New York Times He recently appeared on the podcast sport with Dan Passion Any said he initially viewed his job as consumer service meaning he could tell people with disposable income which restaurants were best in New York City the chic EST restaurants in New York and now he says he's interested in something very very different. Here's Pete well speaking to Dan Passionate in. May I want to be able to tell people. Puerto Rican food actually matters in the city. We have a big Puerto Rican community and some delicious delicious Puerto Rican restaurants. And it's been a long time since I've heard anybody talk about one of them and I'm excited to be able to do that. That that's the kind of power of more interested in now than than just you know you can i. Can I make Thomas Keller stay up at night. I I assume that Thomas Keller is a well established very rich restaurant tour. New Restaurant turned new. York with Pete. Wells is talking about a new kind of opening up a food to people who read his call him. Yeah you know and I think you know as I mentioned earlier in the hour that there is this really inherent ethical consideration to being a restaurant critic. I've done a a small amount of criticism in the past and I've also been an editor of restaurant. Critics in previous lives and and these are pretty explicit conversations nations and a lot of newsrooms you know like a critic and his or her there editor will have a really serious conversation about who we WANNA turn the spotlight on. Like as Pete says it's a power you know it's a form of power and it's the inherent amplification of journalism of having the byline in his case. Being the restaurant critic at the New York Times is probably the most powerful restaurant critic in the country if not the world. What do you do with that power? And I think wheeling it from a from a place of thoughtfulness of inclusivity of considering the fact act that this is a position that whether it whether it has the amount of power or too much power is something that we should also be interrogating but it is useful to take perspective of. What am I going to do? I'm sitting here in front of a microphone. Like me right here. Literally in this radio studio but also Pete in front of his computer computer in the press of the New York Times like. How do I take this opportunity and use it to do something that makes me worthy of the platform that I've been given what we've been hearing from many any of you about the future of food criticisms so many of you are going on Apps for your opinions on wearing what to eat? We're going to.