A highlight from The Hey, Whats Up With the New Guy? Edition


To the promise. Podcast brought to you on t. v. one the voice of the city that is home to what the wall street journal this week called and rightly quote unquote. The summers freshest sparkling drink what the journal which is generally considered authoritative for all matters pertaining to bubbles be the carbonated tour or the financial sort was referring to is of course. In general guzzles does and in particular the gonzo served up at cafe. Levinsky forty one located at levinsky forty one. I know what are the odds right. The genius behind which is a man named benny breda whom many consider responsible for the greatest guzzles revival in zionist history and indeed world history. All this is described beautifully. By the way in a lovely new english language book co written by breda and one of our best food writers edina sussman called goes the art of making magical seasonal sparkling drinks a book considered by those in the know to be the best cousos pros that rowsley leonid shows but for those not predisposed because os or not in the know. Here is a little background. The word does comes from the turkish word cousos carbonated water which was in turn apparently borrowed from the french zoos which means simply gas or gaseous. What goes means here. Is fizzy water to which usually sweet usually fruit syrup is added in situ guzzles in tel aviv is almost as old as tel aviv itself in july nineteen o nine just three months after you organize the seashell lottery parceled out the first lots in what became tel-aviv. Akiva vice president of the local building society applied to the council of who that by as tel aviv was still known back. Then for a permit setup. A tent in which he would sell does which permit request was soon upgraded from a tent to a kiosk and the permit requests led to a heated controversy on the council over two issues one over the principal question of whether something as retrogade as commerce should be allowed in the first jewish city in the modern world which may be had an obligation to disconnect firm the common stereotype of jews as mammon mad traders and shopkeepers and also at a deeper level might best reject the shallow capitalism that had done so much to destroy christian europe. Like some terrible virus and be there. Were those who worried. That goes might be a gateway beverage. That could lead to drinking alcohol in the streets. Much the same way that orthodox jews worry that premarital sex might lead to mix dancing. But i digress. In the end the permit was permitted and a two meter by two meter. Kiosk was built on the corner of rothschild boulevard then simply known as the boulevard and hertzel street the writer somma fees har- who was born in tel aviv but not until nineteen sixteen six years after it was founded later described the guzzles kiosk which he loved as a child. Like this quote. The man in the apron takes in this hand a long china glass and in this hand a magical bottle and pours into the glass a measure of red green or yellow syrup. he brings the cup to the sparkling faucet and sprays into it in an explosive eruption a stream of his carbonated water raising and lowering the glass. As it is filled with an artist hand. He presents the full cup. The amazed and charms customer is left speechless forgetting even to searches pocket for the half grew to pay and quote after the state was established. Cousos was again and constantly a matter of conflict in one thousand nine hundred one. My ran a story worrying that the government austerity program the center might one day soon be extended to include guzzles limiting to one glass a day in nineteen fifty-three the government did decide to treat goes as a luxury item assessing gas cylinders with a heavy new tax that left with no alternative but to raise the price of plane soda water from fifteen to twenty and of syrup goes from twenty five to thirty five. Put this in turn led the government to put in effect price controls on those around the same time. The health department began spot. Checking kiosks sending glasses to bacteriology labs and sometimes finding levels of bacteria on goes glasses to be hundreds even thousands of times over the european standard forcing kiosk owners to buy expensive new washing equipment. In one thousand nine hundred five maariv journalist named rafa elba shan went to the quote second annual nationwide conference of the proprietors of he asks for the sale of soda water and goes in israel and quote where he found the temperature of the purveyors of the cool. Drink to be at a boil. Pesci koppelman the chairman of the national council of proprietors kiosks for the sale of soda. Water and goes in. Israel said quote in his great and insistent bass voice that he represented the most oppressed and discriminated against class in israel does jerks any said quote i call on the government from this stage takes soda and goes off the index of price controlled foods end quote and according to the article from the crowd. Rose a great cheer eventually fell out of favor for many reasons in nineteen sixty six. Coca-cola in part owing to a jewish boycott in america ended its submission to the arab boycott of israel and in nineteen sixty seven. A coke bottling plant opened here with that. Gazelles came to seem old fashioned. You were sabah. In soft drink and coke came to seem like it's ad said the real thing kiosks themselves grew more more scarce. Soon gazelles became along with susa cars and cova tumble hats. A symbol of a simpler israel that had simply disappeared until that is a couple of people in tel aviv. Decided recently that the lustrous tradition of goes in the city would not dry up entirely not on their watch. Anyway one of these men is duty fleischer. Who when he inherited his father's sandwich shop in florentine found. The old copper goes found renovated it and started selling goes by the glass but it was who really brought goes into our time. If you go to cafe levinsky forty-one and you should you will find a tiny storefront filled with jars beakers and retorts apothecary or an alchemy laboratory behind riga. You will find jars filled with various bits of plants spices fruits and vegetables. That look rather like a very colorful version of the jars of remains in formaldehyde. That you find in the saint. Peterburg quincy calmer. Some of the doors are unlabeled and some are marked juniper cloves cardamon cinnamon horseradish strawberry big quince plums low quite cucumbers field peas thai basil pear lime pomelos fig to merick. Spice grapes kombucha persian. Something or other. I couldn't make it quite out. Something called a known a- and lots and lots more. When you get to levinsky forty one you have two options from which to choose small or large riga says quote. People come in and say. Do you have mango. Do you have raspberry. And i say no no friends. We don't do that here. That's not where we're at. You get what we give you end quote and arguably nothing happens the spirit of this city we love so well tel aviv volvo better than looking back to our forsaken past and finding their simple things with which to create a sparkling present and one may be forgiven for believing especially under the influence of a cucumber pear and thai basil gazelles and effervescent future and all without troubling with such things as personal taste and personal choice. If the city is ever to choose a municipal motto or slogan. My suggestion is tel aviv. Afo you get what we give you with us in. The studio is a woman who's guzzles like pros is always ever sent never to mess and and hardly evanescent. It sparkles man at tickles. The nose and the lights the tongue. I speak obviously of alison. Summer allison has written for political the new republic foreign policy. Do some postage ata the forward and many other of your very best papers magazines. She is a columnist with our. It's you have heard on. Npr pri and the bbc and you have seen her on twenty four television zero tv. She hold they've been able with world tenor award for journalism. Recognizing excellence and i asked reported. And alison jose salmon. Rock our award for excellence in covering zionism and

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