Ice Festival, Bozeman, Colorado discussed on Seek Outside Podcast
Going out and doing climbs before they've been conned a lot because well you got a lot bigger challenge And you Kinda get to choose pass whereas once they've been climbed to bunch where you swing your ice axe the the holes of sort of formed already and you end up inadvertently following other people's pass which you know. I it kind of lessons difficulty. So sometimes you're happy for that but that raw natural fight you know special into for people that might not know or have gone ice climbing you. What you're saying is if somebody does it before you they've they've already kind of put holes in the ice and say when you're looking at it you can be like It's obviously easier for me to put my ice tool in here because there's already a whole versus having to kind of make a whole myself. Yeah save a lot of energy so even if some things then climbed once like I do WanNa be the second person and even having the pick holes from the first person makes it significantly easier. You probably won't be able to find every single one but you know even a third of them is going to make it a bit easier. Now there's situations where you know you have melt and freeze or waters flowing over and now a cover up and read the holes for the next day But yeah and General Ed. What the more climb has been done. It usually teams here in easier. Easier and easier not as climate change sort of change some of these climbs over time to like ten years ago. This was always an and now. It's not a question you know. There's a lot of factors that seem to affect what how and when I come in and I think there's you know a lot of local discussion and to you know what's GonNa make for good icier or what's GonNa you know. Make some climber all excited about come in this year I'm sometimes we think it's like you know. General Moisture in the crown in times of drought tend to not yield is good. Ice Climbing obviously Sometimes it's like a wet fall there things where I think like he got all this groundwater moving and the spill over out cliff's which makes the ice crimes but if it gets too cold those groundwater seeps sometimes seem to freeze up and I don't know if the water goes other places or it's just frozen solid for the winter So you never know. And then there's weird things like maybe like housing developments will start pulling from a water source or something else and then my cut it off A lot of the stuff male is Comes out of mine shafts here because the you know the rocky mountains have so much water in them or the same on the plug all these mine shafts as you guys know water starts pouring out of those things and that can make ice kind and then you have mine remediation coming in and plugging those holes and climb stop so there's all kinds of weird factor so it's climate change will probably have an effect but there's all these other moving pieces to very dynamic. Yeah like Canada. I think they tend to have like because it's colder there. You get more of like running water that freezes. Importance is in Colorado often. Have like melt free cycle so especially here where there's like upper bowls basins the snow the catch son and that you know even on a cold day as we know the sound will make the snow melt here and then it drains pores on a cliff down lower normally low that basin. And that's where we get our ice climbs And that happens on a smaller scale to. It's just a little Kelly The snow melt reform and climb now. You've done instruction or guiding as well haven't you're clinics in the past? Yeah so I I don't know kinds of things but I've taught lots of clinics at various ice fast. you're a fast bozeman? Nice past I've also been gone a little bit of ice climbing guiding but not much recently. I've been working with The Valdez I festival in Alaska Helping them rig all the ropes. The Ice Festival. It's kind of challenging job up there because the we're dealing with like seven hundred foot climbs and for the clinics. We only want to use the bottom hundred twenty feet or so we kinda have to lead up and rig all the ropes in the morning because otherwise we'll get frozen overnight so it's a bit of a chore to To prepare for that like no one had night. We gotta go to ropes down to Been involved in that and then they also do rope access which is Most of the time. It's like construction type stuff where Workers need to repel off a building and I helped rig and instruct them on how to do it and it's it's similar climbing except that usually going down instead about because you can take the elevator to the top of the building most cases Similar ISH equipment and techniques but kind of its own little op shoot and I've also done some Kenya nearing guiding which Has Its own staff meeting set of both Ethics and thought processes is in Roper to their approached a rope work is completely different than industrial rope access and it's completely different than rock climbing An ice climbing. So it's fascinating to see all these different approaches to conduct solving similar but different problems. You can you. Can you touch on that a little bit like for canyoneering For people would be going down. Usually these kind of rock shoots or repelling off of faces for multiple repels than maybe hiking out another drainage and then going down so you're just kinda always going down But it's IT'S INTERESTING. Yup to communities like the difference like you said like they do things completely different maybe than climbers. Would you just give one example of how try to touch on it in a way that like everybody will understand so one of the obvious ones? Is that especially like in rock climbing? There's generally less risk tolerance for when it comes to repelling We've liked to put the risk into the climbing part. And then when it comes down we WANNA have very secure anchors To repel off and that might mean a bolts or things around a tree. Something like that Oftentimes like equipment is left behind or permanently in place for that. When it comes to canyoneering on the well bumped up ICE CLIMBING. I I tend to have a little bit. Looser risk tolerance when it comes to repelling like ice climbers. We're happy to repel up the skinny little tree Under the assumption that it's frozen in the ground More so than say A rock climber and the ice anchors call Beatrix kind of freak people out although they're they're usually pretty safe When it comes to canyoneering So Popular Canyon will often have bolted anchors and that I would say like having gear left in place For you know areas that are heavily traffic to repel down but on areas. That are less heavily. Traffic gets to be like a stricter canyoneering ethic and it's more of a leave no trace ethic In most cases and they do they got some bizarre things Like does it. The the most notable I can think of is a what's called the sand trap banker and they do this out in the desert Kenyans and it's tarp you you like put sand in the tarp and then you fold it over and you're able to create enough friction And wait with the sand in the tarp that you know you're able to hold somebody's body weight while they repel up the cliff and then there tends to be a second rope that comes up there. Now they're doing like a single row propel and they're sorta like pull line that unfolds the tarp and is able to empty the sand out and the whole thing pulls down and Probably.