Dining in Murmansk, the Largest City North of the Arctic Circle
This week. We hit well off the beaten track to Russia's mortar monarch the largest city in the Arctic Circle Monaco's the're merits is our guys to the local cuisine which in spice of the harsh conditions is bursting being with flavor. If you're choosing restaurants now in London. I'm Dan Paris or Berlin. What factors are you basing your choice on? Maybe it's equality of the foods. Maybe it's the prices. Maybe it's the atmosphere I most of the time. It's a combination of a three. What you're probably not thinking about is whether the food is going to help you to survive the winter but things are a little different in Murmansk the manzke a Russian ports? That's the biggest city in the Arctic circle in January I traveled to moments from my Titan in Moscow to write an article about how the three hundred thousand people who live there. Make it through the night. The city in the west of Russia about one hundred miles from the border with no way is so far north that for forty days in the winter it has no direct sunlight at all. It's is not completely black. When the sun comes close to the horizon there is a predawn light and then a sunset light for a few hours but the darkness nevertheless takes its toll on the locals when I ask people about how they got through? This period are expected to hear about seasonal affective disorder lamps the importance to try to stay positive the importance of exercise or maybe a little bit of vodka could take the edge off. What I didn't expect was that to be quite? I'd say much. Focus on food as a way of combating the Winter Blues Am. I really didn't expect the much of the feet on offer would be so good. My culinary journey began on the thirty six hour sleep train up from Moscow their flights that take just two hours buzz. If you're making the trip to Murmansk to see some of the stunning Arctic landscapes around the city or perhaps catch a glimpse of the northern lights. It certainly worth going the slow way. Not least the Lakers to sell their wares platforms as he approached the Arctic circle offering cartons of berries. Hey made jams and pies. On the second evening. The photographer I was traveling with picked up his smoked whitefish for dinner. A meaty oily northern fish that similar to salmon. The smell didn't make acoss to popular with our fellow travelers but it was delicious. Once we arrived in Murmansk we set out for a swim with what Russians call. walruses people who jumped through holes in phrase naval lakes and swear that the ice and dip is what keeps them going through the winter. I asked one of them Alexander. Whether he took took any supplements for his diet now he laughed. You get everything you need from fish especially herring on the called for which Murmansk is famous in the rest of Russia Alexander catches card. But there's no need to do this yourself instead to Andhra. The city's most fashionable restaurant breath. Here Murmansk called is served with a side of cramped mashed potatoes. There is salmon steaks which locals swear a tastier than then nowegian cousins dozens. There's a rich potato. Seep with local scholarships or there's giant crab which tender insists is imported from the far east of Russia as it's legal to catch them. I'm here for environmental reasons. Desert so heavy on local berries. And there're all say berry infused tease. The wolves decorated with dried moss in a nod to the rustic many. If you're after something. Meteor try restaurant called SASKIA hotter or the royal hunt this owned by the same people as Tundra. This one's a little bit picture with Russian fake decorations and I hanging over wooden. Beams this fish head to but but there are several variations on rain day on the Arctic themed Menu Strips of meat served with celery mash or a reindeer heart on a bed at blueberry source source in terms of legal fees. There are flavored spirits. Called in a streaky or a vote could like liquor called poly Gar for something sweet. Try Cafe called old. Morowski named off the optic freight that in English is called Cloud Burri the cafes just behind the city's main drag Lenin Avenue and there are plenty of good pastries here but the highlight has to be pancakes with sour cream and cloud breach on the free. Looks like an orange rasberry and in terms taste. It's a little bit like a cross between a rasberry and goose berry. You can find it. Brewed and tease in Murmansk T. If after all of this you're still feeling the dog head to the best restaurant in town. The world's northernmost McDonald's unfortunately there's no reindeer Burger or cloud very mcflurry Lori but there is a little plaque next to the counter that testifies to the outlets distinction if you do remember is medicinal according to local Doctors Fassi comforting. Bright Foods are the best way to make it through the polar night for monocle in Murmansk. I'm the see I met.