Cassidy Zachary, House Of The Qatar House Of Charles, Callahan discussed on Dressed: The History of Fashion
People in the world. We all have one thing in common every day. We all get dressed. Welcome to dress the history of fashion. A podcast marie explore the who. What when why we wear we are fashion historians and your host for callahan and cassidy zachary. While welcome back dress listeners. We are still actually standing on the route of low-pay waiting to continue artur still there jack. Hammering honking cars all of it were still there. But don't worry because we are going to as promised like part one of this series transport you back to the period when the reader lopate was known as the most luxurious shopping street in the world. And what better way to start. Today's episode then with the to your house of a man who can arguably be called the founding father of the ochamchira and the founding father of the of the pay we are standing at seven or sets clue della pay. And i'm wondering dress listeners. you have any guesses. He was the subject of our very first episode. dressed jess. I think that many of our listeners are already well aware of what's coming. Yes because of course seven repay was the home of the house of the qatar house of charles. Frederick were so this is where it all started and of course we could have started the riddler pay tour here. But then we'd be standing in the middle of the street. So i hope you understand why we started at one end and walk towards the other but we've arrived at the place where arguably the fashion reputation other it'll pay started was with worth and actually standing in front of it. The building almost looks exactly as it would have been worth opened his first italia with his business partner. Auto beaubourg at this very site over one hundred sixty years ago and i was in eighteen fifty eight. Yeah and i just have to say when cast. And i kind of like preparing to do this tour. And we were kind of walk in the streets and and and doing all the prep. We both got a little emotional about the fact that we've seen so many pictures of the house of worse than the outside from the nineteenth century and then we're standing across the street from it. It looks exactly the same. It hasn't changed now. It really has it and we're going to post pictures of of course the contemporary and historic photographs of these places. We took a lot of pictures. And we're going to do some side by side comparison so you can see because not all of the storefronts look the same but house of worth does it was pretty incredible to imagine what it would have been like during this the heyday of the street so worth openness for business with auto in eighteen fifty eight he was solo by eighteen. Seventy seventy one. In between this period he had earned the patronage of the empress. Eugenie herself. So you know no big deal. And he became the official designer of the court by eighteen. Sixty four so needless to say clients flocked in droves in their carriages chew the riddle pay and they would actually wait on his outdoor staircase in order to gain entrance and sadly we looked. We walked into the courtyard. The is gone but one can imagine. It seems as if that injury courtyard that we've seen him. Photos has been divided in half now. Somehow staircase isn't thirty anymore but We we were quite curious. I have to say and in terms of this ignificant of all of what we're saying. We just want you to remember that. This term haute couture was not really a term that had existed in worse day. This was a new term and he was largely responsible for setting the precedence for this elite designation within the industry and he kind of like built up this presence on the rule of pay around this elite industry in his presence on the street and worth himself can be credited for many innovations including the concept of the designer as taste maker. And this is something that we're incredibly familiar with today that it slick you know the designer who is the creative visionary but this was a entirely novel concept in the nineteenth century because prior to this it was kind of the client who would instruct their dressmaker earlier. Taylor rest who what they wanted. Not the other way around. It wouldn't be the maker that was the quote unquote creative genius. So you know part in parcells who worst dictatorial control of his clients. Wardrobes or what he envisioned that they should be wearing was also how he presented himself to the world and to his clients and he really did so as an artist he even went so far as to adopt artistic clothing and he dressed the part casts. Right all rembrandt is one compares the and and so much so like this kind of adopted persona was so tre or kind of like out there that in eighteen ninety harper's bazaar wrote that worth could be seen around his house on the regional pay quote during his official hours moving slowly about with two black dogs at his heels. His tall figure wrapped in a loose robe of the finest brown. Wool is still skullcap. On his will shaped head and introspective look upon his serious face. And there's actually wonderful photograph of him out there. So if you want to. Just google charles frederick worth and you will know exactly what we're talking about so another of worse important. Contributions west is innovative organization of the couture house by not only the specialties of tire and flu so tailoring draping departments. But he also created. These other niche specialties like setting sleeves making linings embroidery this essentially created an assembly line process whereby a single garment would pass along the chain for the worker to execute their specific task before handing it off to the next employees to execute their specialty. And so on so. This was a novel notion given that under old models. Sometimes a single person might complete garments construction with additional support from only in embroider or a beater and this is super interesting because this is one of the chief complaints by say like the arts and crafts movement against the industrial revolution. Is people really started. You know mechanising. What wants us to be supercricket process and breaking them down to beat what is the most productive and efficient absolutely and this was actually though one has to argue what allowed couture house to expand significantly because by eighteen seventy the house of worth employed approximately twelve hundred employees and several of them actually lived on the premises of the qatar house or in nearby buildings were employee dormitories. And also. i think this is really quite fascinating. That many couture houses at this time also provided lunch for their employees or their staff in these kind of like really light and airy employee dining rooms that were part and parcel to all these multi level buildings that these businesses were and we actually have a multitude of photographs of some of these things. Yeah and we'll actually post some because there's an incredible book that came out in nineteen ten creators of fashion. That really provides this wonderful behind the scenes element that you just don't often get to see so and i just love this one. Particular memory of the nineteenth century retailer pay from a nineteen twenties book a history of feminine fashion. Which has quote during the empire the root of pay and this is of course the empire of napoleon..