Nigeria, Indonesia, Two Dollars discussed on Stitch Please
Because some have argued that five ace is far too big for seam allowance. And i know that some companies use a quarter inch which is just a little bit smaller than the one centimeter but the idea of having no seam. Allowances i note. That's true right. Because i know that from some pattern magazines. You buy the pattern you by the power the pattern magazine trace it off and then you had your yes. You add something that i did use to do now. I did used to do when i was selling from those magazines. I would find my colors and trace the lines onto pattern. And then i would put the pattern paper under the needle of the sewing machine and i would so my seam allowances just yet. I would just put like some dark thread and use a basting stitch should just so put the left side of my presser foot next to the line and i traced and then that's the seam allowance. I would so for sowing the pattern because i had already sown at once and found that much easier to do that then to maintain at least for me. Because i'm not a designer. I'm not trained. As you are in pattern making. I had a hard time keeping a consistent drawing line at the proper distance between the stitch line in the seam allowance. Oh notice ditch line in the cut line. I just can't i would i. Would i kept messing it up. And i kept trying to find different ways and taping two pencils together and it just. I just couldn't figure it out until i stumbled upon this idea long a long time ago but it was really helpful. A really did help me to maintain those those same allowances coming without seam allowance. That when i started my bedrooms i didn't have seem allows and then my sister's actually pointed out you need to have seam allowance when your parents i edit them but i was so used to it and also i discarded by hand once the shimano ones and i also have a magnets. It you deserve that you have heart foul one centimeter or whatever you need. Yes now i have heard of heard of that. I have seen that in photos. But i have never. I saw that. I am so excited. You have the best toys you just want to remind everybody if you missed us in the last segment. She has a wooden and now she's telling me that she has these special one centimeter tall magnets that she can attached to her scissors and not mark the seam. Allowances on any pattern. Just cut is very impressive. And i love it because it sounds like a really great time saver. I'm always looking for a little shortcuts with sewing. Can we talk a bit about your illustrations. And i know you mentioned before about how you started doing this illustrations i just loving these beautiful black women that are modeling these patterns. Can you say more. About what kind of mood that establishes or what kind of story or blah brand identity. Or whatever that stat. That establishes for you. Because i think they are so cute. I seen a lot of Fashion industry Also veterans It's white women. And i really wanted to represent like myself on the veterans and also show off the clothes when i'm a native Fitting in how it's looking in makes mood profession mood around the besides Sort of a magazine feel with the Which makes it may also been more enjoyable to buy a sewing battery and yeah i loved. Just drawing the during our hairstyles and fuelled rally it. Does i think it does make it more enjoyable. Because at least for me when i go to your page i see these two images like i wanted i smile. I'm like oh my gosh. There's so pretty near so pretty. I feel like someone is really trying to speak to me. As opposed to a a lot a lot of different companies where. I don't see myself reflected anyone that looks like me reflected. That's a choice to and so. I think they had the idea that you have made this choice to emphasize in address and speak to black women is just really beautiful. I want to transition to talk a bit about life. Not so much life but and then we about can share any information about what the sewing seen is like for you in your community or if it's possible to talk about the netherlands as a whole what is the sowings. The what is sewing like there for someone who is just a regular Person that loves to out for us. I had this great experience. When i talked with a woman who lives in nigeria. And she told me about her sewing saying which was very different than mine here in the states and i was curious about how that worked for you as well. Do you. Just go to the store and buy patterns and by fabric is there a market is there. Are there lots of fabric stores. Are they very few people interested in garment sewing or is it more of a different style of crap. That people are doing there. Yeah there's there's of stores stores. They're not so much anymore Sewing scene is also nothing much. I noticed said because of the condemning. A lot of people are starting to pick up sewing again so it's beginning to become more and more popular. There are a couple of good stores which are here. We are quite old stores but it serves a finding better me. No not so much. I find most Tonight and i guess it's interesting to me that you that there's not that many patterns because it makes me wonder at least as i was talking with the woman from a previous episode. She did not learn to so with patterns. She learned to sew with with measurements. So i thought that it really gives you a different set of skills. And i thought it gave you even a bit more confidence like similarly your As you explain that of european patterns do not have same allowances which allows you to make adjustments to the pattern before you add those and it just gives you a whole different set of skills than what we what we get here who have a enter magazines. The verda a few french magazines american veterans. Then you have to really go to a fabric store. You can get them there with the what i seeing seeing with. You have so many choices. No it's interesting sorry is it. it's okay. It's interesting to me. Because what i'm realizing after talking to so many so as from around the world in different places is that at least here in the us with us being released. I can't speak for myself as someone who learned so with a bunch of patterns the big four pattern company and now more independent companies which have the benefit of reaching an international audience when the media. That's one another great thing about pd. i feel as though out. It encourages a type of dependency. At least for me i have. I don't know. I might have seven hundred commercial patterns in my house right now. I'm pretty sure i do. I'm pretty sure. And i think seven hundred is probably a low estimate because i can buy them when they're a dollar or two dollars or now the sale might be four dollars or three dollars so they are very. They're plentiful there widely available. They're not that expensive. If i want to sizes of a pattern. I'll just by two patterns at the three dollar to dollar sale. But which but what. I get inconvenienced though i feel like i've lost in certain essential skills. I understand right. Yeah so like you know how to do. Adjustments and measurement how to do adjustments. You know how to make these changes how to get things to fit on your body. I tend to just by the patterns. Size that i think is going to fit the best and then i might tweak it a little bit but there's a lot that i don't know how to do because i never really had to learn it and so that's one of the things i appreciate about learning the way that people so around the world because everyone is getting different. We're all doing the same thing with but we're just doing it in a d. Yeah in a different way. Yeah i was raised with the idea that i always have to adjust the better so even though i buy better i always have to adjust make adjustments to make it fit better yet so i never use a veteran straight out of the envelope. I always make some adjustments check ahead to fit my size that it and that's the smart way. That's the smart way to do it. If i think is such a good way. I've started to be a little bit better about that and i think it helps me also to tell a different story. I think that something that one of the things that i learned from you. Vanessa is based on what you learn if you started sewing and so i always have to adjust the pattern. You don't have an emotional attachment to that. At least maybe you do. I don't know but for me out if someone like me who is trained to say. Okay just by the pattern and so the pattern and the pattern will fit or not fit that very limited training or that. Very limited approach to pattern wearing pattern sewing. It can say it can. It can wear on. You can wear on some people's like self esteem or self image. If they feel like instead of the pattern being broken the pattern being limited you turn this against your own body. And that i think is one of the most very tragic and sad thing when people are sowing in such a way that says ono. The pattern is correct. I need to make sure that. I squeezed myself into these things. That really aren't meant to fit me. In so i think having the skills of adjustment really make a big difference there they really do. I wanted to pivot a bit and talk a bit in about your approach or your thoughts on african print fabrics. I know we've talked about this a little bit before. But i'm really interested in that story and i know i'm not sure if it how many folks know the story of how like when you see if you buy some african fabric to they'll say dutch wax prints on the or it'll say holland is often marked on the sides of these fabrics. Some of the major companies that are in this industry have been in the industry for hundreds of years. It hasn't been that long hundred seventy five years. A hundred seventy five years so about fiscal And yes and so. These folks are known as the superstars of african print fabrics and it's a dutch company based in the netherlands. And it's interesting because it seems like the story of the dutch involvement in african pin- fabrics. Art is it. I don't know how well known it is. I i know about it but i don't know how well known. It is more broadly. So can you tell us a little bit about how the as a dutch woman. I think he had this great attachment to the history. So can you talk a bit about the history of the dutch involvement in african fabrics. Like where that all started in came from sure's soda companies started in eighteen forty six than its fiscal end. Its base here in helmand to this about an hour and a half away from my house in. They started with the making imitation. Batik fabric in boutique is the tradition of making a wax. Rx assisted dyed fabric in. They do that in indonesia. Hundreds of years ago was not in asia. It was the dutch. East indies interest colonize and that sometimes people forget when they tell the story of Going to the nisha. The dutch were really good and imitating the boutique. But they were not as good as the and it's like. Why do we want to buy from you. We are indonesian and we have our own ancestral practices of making the fabric. So why would we wanna buy that from your cheaper. That's true but not better. And also they protected their markets against imitation in february coming from outside. So that's why they didn't really start in that industry that watch so then they were looking for a different market in around the same thing. There's the legend of the bombay heat. Tom and those were around. Three hundred thousand mostly ghanaian recruits recruited by the dutch to fight in the colonial in asia and Men when they went back to west regarding to them about teak fabric and it was around the same time started to sell also but in the west africa. So that's also the ghanaian soldiers who were there as part of the colonial army to help support the dutch in the east indians when they return home to ghana they brought some of the fabric with them or did they do they bring the fabric with them or did they just say this is what we saw that. So essentially brought fabric with them when returned and the story goes. That's how a dutch got the idea to sell their batiks because they saw it was getting Soldiers and beyond honest. We still don't know if they were enslaved or like free soldiers or free. Right right insulated. The strange history or not strangest three. It's the trying to figure out what actually happened there. But with in either case this was it's an interesting story about global expansion and imperialism slash colonialism and like using african soldiers to help the dutch keep control of indonesia or what they call the dutch east indies so these different connections and is different relationships which are which we might understand in one way on a global political scale or geopolitical scale actually also influence fabric and the fabric that we by which is such such an interesting story. So you're so now so what's going on today. Is there a long. Has i know. I'm sure a lot happens. Of course one hundred and seventy five years. But what's what are you. What are.